Roof Gutter

[Dbradford04]

The roof gutter thing has been threaded to death, but my situation is a bit unique.

I completely stripped it down and then had the local Line-X guy shoot it. It turned out awesome, but didn't nor was it intended to fill the gap around the gutter.

My question is this. SEM or Sikaflex??? Seems like there are positives and negatives.

SEM is self leveling, but requires a special gun and needs to be painted.

Sikaflex seems to me to be more like caulk so I would have to be more precise, but is marine grade and doesn' need to be painted.

Any thoughts??

 

[spectre6000]

What gap are you referring to?

 

[Dbradford04]

Gap

It's a small gap between the roof edge and the edge of the metal gutter.

 

[Coastline]

Dicor lap sealant is what we use on RV rooftop appliances and trim. This is a non hardening, U.V. stable, sealant that is used by virtually every RV service and repair center everywhere although it is available under different labels. This stuff comes in two shades of white and dove grey. It is also available as self leveling which is pretty much a non issue if you don't mind getting some on your fingers. Just smooth it out, pushing it back uphill, or you can select the non leveling style. I sell it for $10.00 a tube and it can be used with a standard caulk gun. Ask for it at your local RV service center

Mitch

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

3M Fast n'Firm sealer is what should be used there. However, I don't think that it will stick to the line-X.

http://3mcollision.com/products/sealants/3m-fast-n-firm-seam-sealer-08505.html

 

[DougAustinTx]

It probably would have been better to apply whatever sealant you select, before you applied the Line-X. Then the Line-X would have protected the sealant against UV and moisture. I used the 3M self-leveling 2 part sealer(applied with the mixing spout and special gun) because it seeps down into the crevices, then epoxy primer, then normal urethane paint.

 

[Dbradford04]

Dicor

The Line-X guy said suggested that I do the line-x first..who knows.

I think I'll go the Dicor route..UV resistant, used on RV roofs...plus, you'll never see this anyway since its in the gutter.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Splangy]

3M Fast n'Firm sealer is what should be used there.

Lol. Says who?

Dbradford, I got your PM. You can borrow the SEM gun if you decide to go that route.

You definitely should have done the sealer before the topcoat.

 

[Dbradford04]

Yah...I was just taking the advice of the line-x guy...he didnt want to spray over anything...I think it'll be fine..I'll let you know about the gun...

The dicor stuff is cheap enough..I'll try it on a small spot and see how it adheres and flows.

Thanks,

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

Lol. Says who?

Me.
That's what I recommended to the 50 or so people who bought rain gutters from me. They all seemed happy. I sent 12 tubes to Theo in South Africa for 6 rain gutter kits I sold him. Maybe he can chime in here.

 

[hisandher77fj]

How hard is it to replace the rain gutter?

 

[coinoperated40]

How hard is it to replace the rain gutter?

Takes basic welding skill, meaning I knew someone that could weld. I used old gutter system as template for new one. Buy the kit from someone on MUD, weld it, drill it, paint it, and smash the rivet heads, paint again and away you go.
Having most of the old one helped a lot.
There should be a few threads on here on how-to..
Shane

 

[bikersmurf]

Hammered rivets aren't very hard, I'd recommend a few practice ones before working on the top. I replaced my stock one witha salvaged stock one. It wasn't very hard... Although at the time, I just used pop rivets.

 

[middlecalf]

Dicor is what I used when I redid my top. Sikaflex is more of an adhesive, not a lap sealant. Dicor will get firm, but not hard. It bonds well with fiberglas, I would imagine it would bond well with the line-x.

 

[StaleAle]

I used 3M 4000 UV Fast Cure Sealant on the gutter kit I got from SouthBostonFJ, not the Fast N Firm that Alex recommended. Having used Fast N Firm on another project (body seams), I think the 4000 UV marine sealant is more flexible and a stronger adhesive, but not too strong that you can't take it apart later if needed. Combined with solid aluminum rivets, it makes a sturdy assembly. I did a double 1/8" bead on the inside of the raingutter, then clamped the cap on top and left it 36 hours to cure. I used nails to keep the rivet holes aligned because clamping the curved surface of the cap makes it spread a little and I didn't want the holes to be much bigger than the rivet. I flipped the assembly on its back, so the gutter was on top, then inserted the solid aluminum rivets from the underside, braced them against a steel block, and hammered the rivets down from the raingutter side. I did not need to use the washers that Alex provided. I didnt want an extra seam to have to worry about. I then slathered a layer to cover the rivet bases and any remaining gap inside the rain gutter.

 

[Pumpkin Troopy]

I replaced my rain gutter, cost me $20 to get the gutter fabricated.

I then used Seam Sealer.. I recommend a lot to ensure you do not have leaks..

 

[Bones]

I went with the SEM and could not be happier. It flows easy, levels nicely. Still has enough flex that my labrak gutter mounts can grip and bite into it. I would follow Jeff (Splangy) advice. Plus he will loan you his gun like he did me. I hope to repay him for his kindness someday.

Andy

 

[StaleAle]

I replaced my rain gutter, cost me $20 to get the gutter fabricated.

I then used Seam Sealer.. I recommend a lot to ensure you do not have leaks..

Got any pics? I'd like to see what a $20 custom fabricated gutter looks like.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

Got any pics? I'd like to see what a $20 custom fabricated gutter looks like.

I'm guessing something like this?

 

[jmdaniel]

I'm guessing something like this?

Ha! But with the screen on top to keep the leaves out!