Rolling the dice - slow moving turbo HZJ105 project (2 Viewers)

[mudgudgeon]

Love your work @mudgudgeon.
This a great thread with lots of great pics. (These pics will more than likely end up all over the internet and facebook etc.)

Thanks for sharing.
I am terrible at taking pics when I'm doing stuff.

Thanks mate. I don't usually stop and take pics a lot of the time, usually elbows deep in what I'm doing. Or too greasy

I know pics of the pyro probe location are hard to find. Hopefully it helps someone.

 

[diby 2000]

Thanks mate. I don't usually stop and take pics a lot of the time, usually elbows deep in what I'm doing. Or too greasy

This is part of my issue too, the other part is that I just dont think to do it. My mind is usually on the task at hand or the next step. When I'm really into it I even forget to eat or pee etc lol.

I know pics of the pyro probe location are hard to find. Hopefully it helps someone.

That is exactly what I was thinking as I was looking at them. That said, there are plenty more pics here that are awesome for explaining things to people.

 

[mudgudgeon]

It's Alive!

Fired the old girl up this afternoon. First time is run since before Christmas.

It's super quiet, I'm very surprised at how quiet it is.
Took it for a short shake down run. No leaks, all seems good.
Definitely need to give it a tune and get the boost compensator working.
I start to hear the turbo at about 1500 rpm.
To early to tell how much I'll hear the turbo, but so far it's sounding far more civilised than my old HDJ81 did

 

[diby 2000]

Nice!
I bet that's a good feeling.
This will surely add motivation to get everything else done (house move etc) so you can play with the truck more!

 

[mudgudgeon]

@diby 2000 hell yes. its been an epic mission

 

[mudgudgeon]

some pics

bundle of goodies!

I used a hdj80 turbo oil feed/return manifold and bent it, and reshaped it to suit, and cut the banjo fitting off the end and welded a steel NPT nipple to the end.

NPT nipple brazed onto oil feed

steel tee, and repositioned oil pressure sender. I ha to partly unwrap the wiring harness to free up some cable to reconnect the oil pressure sender

a shot of the oil feed/return on the turbo and the stainless/teflon braided oil supply line I used. its rated at 1000psi, so should cope
I use NPT fittings mainly because I wanted steel fittings to Tee off the oi pressure sender gallery. I've read too many reports of brass fittings failing here. I could have used AN fittings, but though it was easier to keep it all uniform
Oil fittings and getting the hose made to suit cost me about $120AUD
oils suply hose wraps around the front f the sump. I have used a couple of stainless steel cable ties to secure it, but will make a couple of tabs to secure the hose using sump bolts

 

[mudgudgeon]

Oil hose wrapping around the front of the sump

same again from other side

another shot of the oil return line (it has since been hose clamped). I'm not 100% happy with this. I think I'll cut the oil manifold and fabricate a steel tube drain and just have a short rubber joiner at the sump. I fitted a bulkhead fitting in the sump when I had it off while changing a cracked head 18months ago.
that's black paint on the oil manifold. I wanted to paint over the zinc that burnt off brazing the fitting to the end. Should have used a colour that doesn't look like leaking oil!

PCV hose is just venting to atmosphere for now. Will fit a catch can at some point.
pyro is in, but gauges are not. I had to cap the old PCV spigot in the crossover pipe, I cut and crimped it then brazed it shut

I rotated the air filter housing cap to better align the outlet with turbo intake hose. i had to rejig the blocked air filter sensor hoses, adn adjust the filter housing clips too.

 

[mudgudgeon]

intake hoses. worked out pretty simple, I just bought stock silicone bends and had to trim a little of the straight legs here and there to get them to work.
joined with ally pipe and T bolt clamps (t bolts are ugly as a hatfull)

more ugly T bolts. I used long sections of ally pipe for the joiners. I pushed the pipe into the elbow as far as I could without deforming the elbow. I wanted to prevent the silicone elbow from being able to be sucked inward at high RPM.
from the turbo to the crossover, I used a 45degree reducing elbow (51mm to 64mm), then a 90degree reducing elbow (64mm to 70mm)
from the air box to the turbo I used a 90degree 75mm elbow, then a 90degree reducing elbow (75mm to 70mm)

artsy shot of grinding flanged nuts down for the turbo/dump pipe flange. I locked two nuts onto a stud, put the stud in the cordless drill and spun them while grinding with the bench grinder.
turns out its a good way to dress a grinding wheel too

I tried grindng a set of multi grips to make an improvised bead forming tool. It wasn't very successful. You need forearms like popeye to crimp the tube I have RSI from years of metal roofing doesn't help either. I ended up resting the multi grips against the vice and smacking them with a hammer to deform the tube enough to create a small bead
Picture doesn't show it very well

 

[mudgudgeon]

dodgey phone video of exhaust at idle (ignore the noisey valves, I need to change shims )

 

[diby 2000]

Nice work.

I tried grindng a set of multi grips to make an improvised bead forming tool. It wasn't very successful. You need forearms like popeye to crimp the tube I have

I have ground down on old electrical hand crimper to do the same job. Utilux 00/1 I think they are. They work very well. I can form a bead on 1.6mm walled stainless tube reasonably easily with them.
Pic of the tool I have used, pre modification.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Nice work.

I have ground down on old electrical hand crimper to do the same job. Utilux 00/1 I think they are. They work very well. I can form a bead on 1.6mm walled stainless tube reasonably easily with them.
Pic of the tool I have used, pre modification.

Cool. Much better leverage ratio on them.
I might see if I can make up a set of jaws for my ratcheting terminal crimper. Even better leverage.

 

[diby 2000]

Yeah that would work pretty well too.
I was skeptical that theses would have enough leverage but I'm surprised how well they worked in the end.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Well, seems my 1HZzzzzzzzz has had its cherry popped AND been well and truly woken up!
I popped the seal off the fuel screw and wound it in 3/4 of a turn and took it for a spin.
I'm excited about how this thing is going to perform with a proper tune.

With a bit more fuel, the turbo is whistling from about 1250 rpm, and pulls solidly from 15-1600 rpm through to about 3600 rpm

Exhaust sounds good. It's quiet with no drone, but sticking the boot into it, it has a low throaty rumble

Will it be like a 1HD-T with gturbo? Nope.
But it's going to be fun to drive, and I do want this thing to hold together too

 

[mongoose2231]

Great job on giving that ole 1HZ some punch. I also charged my 2H and it also woke it up significantly!

 

[Lumpskie]

Great job, great thread and great build!

 

[CruisingSned]

Mudgudgeon
Amazing build detail.
Had any progress lately? Setting up HZJ105R and stealing ideas, I mean looking for inspiration.
Thanks.

 

[CruisingSned]

Here's a couple of pics to show the ideal location for the EGT pyrometer probe to drill and tap in the manifold

View attachment 1466500
this pic shows the EGT fitting centred between a couple of webs on the manifold, just above the turbo flange

View attachment 1466501
I've drilled this so the EGT pyro fitting is just clear of the radiused internal corner at the flange
it fits nicely equal distances from the raised castings on three sides


View attachment 1466502
this shot shows where the threaded hole comes through on the inside. You can see the rib in the centre that directs gasses from the front and rear manifold section toward the turbo. drilling the hole for the pyro any higher puts the probe into the dividing rib.
it could go maybe 1/4" higher before it was a problem

Tapping a tapered thread is kind of scary, it felt like the tap was going to break so many times. It took a bit of trial and error to get the drill size right so I finished with a tapped hole that let the bung screw far enough in and seal without bottoming out on the manifold

Probably going to get laughed off the forum before i even get started, but can i ask the reason for the 1hd-t manifold onto the 1HZ? Is it a better flowing manifold?

Bit new to Landcruiser engines, but is the 1hd-t a factory turboed version of the 1HZ in the 80 series LC's?

Thanks.

 

[IanB]

Probably going to get laughed off the forum before i even get started, but can i ask the reason for the 1hd-t manifold onto the 1HZ? Is it a better flowing manifold?

Bit new to Landcruiser engines, but is the 1hd-t a factory turboed version of the 1HZ in the 80 series LC's?

Thanks.

1HZ shares the block and crank with the 1HD-T, 1HZ has an indirect injection head while the 1HD-T has a direct injection head, but the exhaust manifolds interchange, so a 1HD-T exhaust manifold is an easy way to adapt the 1HZ into a turbo engine.

 

[CruisingSned]

1HZ shares the block and crank with the 1HD-T, 1HZ has an indirect injection head while the 1HD-T has a direct injection head, but the exhaust manifolds interchange, so a 1HD-T exhaust manifold is an easy way to adapt the 1HZ into a turbo engine.

Thanks Ian
Will have to start watching out for parts.
My 1HZ has the turbo adapted to the standard 1HZ exhaust manifold. I might be wrong but it looks a lot more restrictive than the 1HD-T.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Mudgudgeon
Amazing build detail.
Had any progress lately? Setting up HZJ105R and stealing ideas, I mean looking for inspiration.
Thanks.

Thanks mate. Been a very slow process, have just chipped away at it during the year. Been to much going on, uni, work, etc.
Hoping to re-register it this month.

If you haven't already found it, have a read through the "should I turbo my 1HZ thread" thread on lcool.
It may put you off the idea.

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