Rolling the dice - slow moving turbo HZJ105 project (1 Viewer)

mudgudgeon

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I'll find out soon enough Ian ;) It's something I did think about because of the shifter vibration. I did the virtually the same with my old hdj81 (I've done a couple of small things differently) on my 80, I had tight clearances and absolutely zero noticeable vibrations.

My thinking was I wanted the down pipe hard mounted to the engine/trans until it was past the flex joint. The flex joint is what isolates the vibrations. With 4" dump pipe, there is no room for a flex joint any sooner in this system, and with not much clearance to the transfer, I wanted the exhaust fixed so it cant rattle.

you have me thinking though! :hmm: maybe I can use a rubber mount at the transfer to isolate the vibrations. Might wait and see.

The stock exhaust on this rig had no flex joint in it anywhere, it was bracketed to the bell housing, but then no hangers until behind the transfer case.
 

mudgudgeon

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Has anyone found a dual needle boost gauge with a 0-30psi scale?

I'd like something similar to this one by Hewitt Industries to monitor boost and drive pressure on one gauge at a glance.

They also have a 0-50psi version

108-103-1R-1%20small.jpg
 

mudgudgeon

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Back at home full time now, so hoping to get some traction with this.

I've almost completed the exhaust finally. A couple of brackets to finish and a couple of flanges to burn in.

I picked up a boost compensated Zexel IP at a cheap price. I'm going to take the BC off and have a go at fitting it to my 1hzzzzz IP. Looks like the BC is the same, with some very minor differences. Could be interesting.

Will try and document it with pics, depending on how messy it gets :hillbilly:
 
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mudgudgeon

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slowly making some progress.

more welding done on the exhaust. I'm aiming to have it 100% done tomorrow, 2 1/2 months after I last said that.

this exhaust system has probably twice as many welds as the last one I made. Last one I used mandrel bends that had a long straight leg either side of the bend, most bends were cut to length t but up to the next one.
This time round, there is only about 1" of straight leg, so I have a short piece of pipe between most bends.

I ran out of argon this afternoon. Cylinder valve leaked, so I lost about 1/2 a bottle!!! Grrrr











Finally got the last piece of my dump pipe cut and tacked in.


I ballsed this up twice! This time round, I made a 3D template by taping about 30 layers of masking tape randomly over the entire mandrel bend. then did my best to mark out were I needed to cut the bend to fit.
I slit the tape, and carefully peeled it off the bend, then I trimmed the 3D tape template to fit against the other part of the dump pipe.
then fitted the tape back to the bend, traced around it, then cut the bend with a bit of room to spare, and trimmed it to fit.
worked a treat.







 

mudgudgeon

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also picked up a Zexel VE IP to cannabalise parts to convert the high altitude compensator on my 1HZ to work as a boost compensator.

I've spent some time stripping it and measuring parts etc to figure out how to make the best use of it.
There's some differences to the Denso VE IP, but parts are definitely interchangeable.

The throttle arm , and top housing on the Zexel is set up for the throttle arm to be operated directly by cable without the link arm used on 1HZ/1HDT. this could be an advantage if a custom intake manifold was installed that interfered with the throttle linkage set up

Zexel





inside boost compensator













Denso altitude compensator









 
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mudgudgeon

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interesting to note, there is virtually no wear mark on the pin in the altitude compensator.

the aneroid pin from the Zexel has a deep wear mark. it also has two separate wear marks which suggests it was tuned at some point
I don't like the profile of the Zexel pin. I wont be using it.
the Zexel BC had no "off idle" adjustment on the top cover. I'll add an adjustment screw to this.
 

cruisedeisel

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The top cap off of older volkswagon jetta IP pumps have the adjustable smoke screw. bolts right on. I did the same thing your doing but to a 2L 4 cylinder. I also had to change the piston/cylinder sleeve because it was 1mm bigger. Easy and fun!
 

mudgudgeon

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cheers cruisediesel. it was partly your posts about using the VW bits that got me searching for options.

I'm going to remove the 1HZs altitude compensator parts from the housing. the BACS has no adjustment in it, and works slightly differently. the top housing and the follower pin etc are all the same.
Using the Zexel parts, I'll swap in the threaded sleeve, star wheel and spring, aneroid pin and diaphragm. I'll need to source a different aneroid pin, and will add an adjustment nut to the top of the cover I have.

It looks like it will be fairly straight forward. with the BACS already on my pump, I wont need to remove the top housing.
 
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slowly making some progress.

more welding done on the exhaust. I'm aiming to have it 100% done tomorrow, 2 1/2 months after I last said that.

this exhaust system has probably twice as many welds as the last one I made. Last one I used mandrel bends that had a long straight leg either side of the bend, most bends were cut to length t but up to the next one.
This time round, there is only about 1" of straight leg, so I have a short piece of pipe between most bends.

I ran out of argon this afternoon. Cylinder valve leaked, so I lost about 1/2 a bottle!!! Grrrr











Finally got the last piece of my dump pipe cut and tacked in.


I ballsed this up twice! This time round, I made a 3D template by taping about 30 layers of masking tape randomly over the entire mandrel bend. then did my best to mark out were I needed to cut the bend to fit.
I slit the tape, and carefully peeled it off the bend, then I trimmed the 3D tape template to fit against the other part of the dump pipe.
then fitted the tape back to the bend, traced around it, then cut the bend with a bit of room to spare, and trimmed it to fit.
worked a treat.







Wow nice work on the dump pipe.
 

mudgudgeon

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Wow nice work on the dump pipe.

cheers. getting that the way I wanted it just about broke me! :(

not quite, but it took three goes at cutting the second bend to fit the first, 2 aborted bends in the bin :doh: but I quite enjoy figuring this stuff out. Definitely not the cheapest exhaust system available after a couple of malfunctions :meh:
 

mudgudgeon

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finally, did the last weld on my exhaust system. just need to bolt it all back under the car.

I decided to take it all out and mock it up on the floor for a picture or two.

I spent ages on the section from where it passes over the chassis and diff, then bends around my subtank.
I wanted minimum of 10mm (3/8) clearance, and just couldn't quite get some of the bends right. I ended up cutting one section of pipe 2/3 through, and closing the cut to get a few extra degrees bend. that one cut made all the difference!

IMG_20170430_124037.jpg


IMG_20170430_124049.jpg


IMG_20170430_124058.jpg


IMG_20170430_124205.jpg


IMG_20170430_124127.jpg
 

mudgudgeon

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Well, that big shiny snake ^^^ is also bolted up under the old bus!

I'm hoping to have this thing running this weekend. I need to get it running under its own power so I can move house in a couple of weeks

I have the turbo, manifold, and exhaust all bolted in, most the intake hoses in (intercooler will come later)

Still have a fair to-do-list. I need to do:

-bolt up the V-band clamp on the dump pipe
-measure up an oil line and have it made. then fit it.
-TIG weld a nipple to the turbo oil manifold. I cut and modified a new turbo oil feed/drain manifold, it will have a union joint to the new oil line
-fit a steel T to the oil gallery at the oil pressure sender. I've read a few stories of brass T's failing in this application, so found a steel T and fittings for the new oil line. Pressure sender will screw into the new steel T.
-cut some alloy joiners for intake hoses, and add a bead to the ends, then clamp it all up.
-fit oil drain hose. already have a fitting in the sump
-fit boost line to wastegate actuator
-reinstall high altitude compensator aneroid. (boost compensator set up will be done later)
-replace my main starter battery which has died from lack of use!
-fit water lines to the turbo (will probably do this later too)
-fit the pyro probe in the manifold (gauge in cab later)
 

mudgudgeon

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IMG_20170521_212404.jpg




IMG_20170521_212321.jpg

Finally, all bolted in with gaskets in place. New factory 1hd-t front 1/2 manifold, I cleaned up the original rear 1/2. soaked in phosphoric acid for a couple of days

IMG_20170521_212315.jpg

the V-band joint I put in the dump pipe is visible here. I put this one in so I could lift the turbo, manifold, dump pipe out as a unit. It went in as a unit, but the new manifold studs are 1/2" too long and made it a little bit of a PITA

IMG_20170521_210150.jpg

here's a shot of it on the bench, I ground the flange off a couple of spare flanged, ribbed nuts for the turbo/dump pipe bolts. the full sized flanged nut didn't clear the dump pipe tube
the pyro fitting is visible just above the turbo flange


IMG_20170521_210116.jpg

different angle. water lines bolted on. still need to grind a couple of flanged nuts down.
 

mudgudgeon

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Here's a couple of pics to show the ideal location for the EGT pyrometer probe to drill and tap in the manifold

IMG_20170521_194907.jpg

this pic shows the EGT fitting centred between a couple of webs on the manifold, just above the turbo flange

IMG_20170521_194856.jpg

I've drilled this so the EGT pyro fitting is just clear of the radiused internal corner at the flange
it fits nicely equal distances from the raised castings on three sides


IMG_20170521_194846.jpg

this shot shows where the threaded hole comes through on the inside. You can see the rib in the centre that directs gasses from the front and rear manifold section toward the turbo. drilling the hole for the pyro any higher puts the probe into the dividing rib.
it could go maybe 1/4" higher before it was a problem

Tapping a tapered thread is kind of scary, it felt like the tap was going to break so many times. It took a bit of trial and error to get the drill size right so I finished with a tapped hole that let the bung screw far enough in and seal without bottoming out on the manifold
 

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