Thanks mate. I don't usually stop and take pics a lot of the time, usually elbows deep in what I'm doing. Or too greasy
I know pics of the pyro probe location are hard to find. Hopefully it helps someone.
This is part of my issue too, the other part is that I just dont think to do it. My mind is usually on the task at hand or the next step. When I'm really into it I even forget to eat or pee etc lol.Thanks mate. I don't usually stop and take pics a lot of the time, usually elbows deep in what I'm doing. Or too greasy
That is exactly what I was thinking as I was looking at them. That said, there are plenty more pics here that are awesome for explaining things to people.I know pics of the pyro probe location are hard to find. Hopefully it helps someone.
I have ground down on old electrical hand crimper to do the same job. Utilux 00/1 I think they are. They work very well. I can form a bead on 1.6mm walled stainless tube reasonably easily with them.I tried grindng a set of multi grips to make an improvised bead forming tool. It wasn't very successful. You need forearms like popeye to crimp the tube I have
Here's a couple of pics to show the ideal location for the EGT pyrometer probe to drill and tap in the manifold
View attachment 1466500
this pic shows the EGT fitting centred between a couple of webs on the manifold, just above the turbo flange
View attachment 1466501
I've drilled this so the EGT pyro fitting is just clear of the radiused internal corner at the flange
it fits nicely equal distances from the raised castings on three sides
View attachment 1466502
this shot shows where the threaded hole comes through on the inside. You can see the rib in the centre that directs gasses from the front and rear manifold section toward the turbo. drilling the hole for the pyro any higher puts the probe into the dividing rib.
it could go maybe 1/4" higher before it was a problem
Tapping a tapered thread is kind of scary, it felt like the tap was going to break so many times. It took a bit of trial and error to get the drill size right so I finished with a tapped hole that let the bung screw far enough in and seal without bottoming out on the manifold
Probably going to get laughed off the forum before i even get started, but can i ask the reason for the 1hd-t manifold onto the 1HZ? Is it a better flowing manifold?
Bit new to Landcruiser engines, but is the 1hd-t a factory turboed version of the 1HZ in the 80 series LC's?
1HZ shares the block and crank with the 1HD-T, 1HZ has an indirect injection head while the 1HD-T has a direct injection head, but the exhaust manifolds interchange, so a 1HD-T exhaust manifold is an easy way to adapt the 1HZ into a turbo engine.
Amazing build detail.
Had any progress lately? Setting up HZJ105R and stealing ideas, I mean looking for inspiration.