Rogue Fabrication Bender - My Review and Experience (3 Viewers)

[half k cruiser]

@GLTHFJ60 did you purchase bend tech software to use with yours ? I finally got around to setting up my dies today and tried a test bend. The bends look amazing and were very easy to do. My HF ram is actually pretty quiet. Unfortunately I am completely lost figuring out how to make the tube do what I want, and my first stick of 1'' was way off.

I watched the videos on @RogueFab sight, several times over, they just don't go into enough depth to answer my questions. For instance, where you clamp the tube ( I think I subtract the offset from whatever length of straight tube I want before the bend ). For instance if I wanted 20'' then a bend I would clamp it at 14.25 (5.75 offset for that die) ?

Then you have to factor in take up, in this case 7.07'' for 90*. This is where I really get lost. I have no idea where to place my clamp die after the first 90*. The whole offset thing really messes me up. I have looked at the diagram on there website for an hour straight and its just not doing it for me. I have not been able to find any videos that cover the offset / take up relationship with the Rogue Fab bender. One of there videos somewhat covers it, but the marks aren't labeled so I can't match them up to what he's saying, and you can't see where he's running his clamp block because of the camera's static position.

Anyhow, I was curious how people are learning to bend with the Rogue. Maybe I'm just a complete dummy when it comes to mathematics and thinking through equations.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

No, I did not end up buying bend tech software.

This isn't so much a question of bending with the Rogue Fab bender specifically, but how to map out your bends on your tubing.

This guy isn't using a rogue fab bender, but it doesn't matter, the concepts are the same. Check these out, these helped:





TFS: Tube Bending Basics 3 - Q & A

 

[Stumpalama]

It is also a good idea to make some annotated templates of bent tube and keep them handy for reference.

 

[half k cruiser]

Ok, @GLTHFJ60 that video did help in a weird way. The best thing I got from it was making a bend template and the cheater pipe. Once I started adding up the numbers correctly it was actually fairly straight forward. Also, I don't want to hijack your thread. This is currently the only thread on mud about this bender that I could find and thought it might be a useful resource for others. If you would like me to post my opinions and results elsewhere I will not be offended.

@Stumpalama I now have some 2D cardboard templates that I'm going to hold onto for future projects.

My first successful bend was the double 90's. Essentially the bottom retainer for a can carrier I intend to bolt to my 4x4 labs rear ladder.

Then I did a test piece to see how tight you can put double 180's. I was super happy with this as I had to cut the piece exact before the bending, based on my calculations. The spring back keeps it from being perfectly aligned. In order to finish the piece I will have to chuck it in a vice, apply some heat, bend them together the final .5'', then tack the two sides together.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's pretty slick

What tube dimensions are you working with? 1.25"?

 

[half k cruiser]

That's pretty slick

What tube dimensions are you working with? 1.25"?

That's 1.0 on 4.5 CLR . For the interior stuff I am doing it made the most sense for my first die. When I start working on armor and exterior projects I will get some bigger stuff. Also, thank you for all of your help. Its nice to have experienced people out there on the forum who are willing to share there know how.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Just doing my part in the grand pay it forward scheme

I built a set of sliders with my bender as the first project and they came out great, super easy. 4 45* bends and two 90* bends cut in the right spot and I got this. Used the videos above to try to get the two sliders symmetrical, got it within 1/4" on the lower hoop.

 

[half k cruiser]

Wow, @GLTHFJ60 those look fantastic. Good call fabbing the step outs, I've used mine before and they really came in handy. I do wish my metaltechs had a step plate to fill up some of that big gap though. I always worry about one of my kids slipping a foot through there and getting caught at a bad angle. What size pipe and what CLR die did you use ?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Those were 1.75" bent on 6" CLR dies. The gaps will be filled with diamond plate!

 

[spencer184]

@GLTHFJ60 Ive been researching this bender for a while. ive seen guys get flattening with the 4.5 inch clr dies......anyone here? Also, on the big 6 inch you have once you reach the point where your hydro cylinder hits the die can you re position the ram and keep bending?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@GLTHFJ60 Ive been researching this bender for a while. ive seen guys get flattening with the 4.5 inch clr dies......anyone here? Also, on the big 6 inch you have once you reach the point where your hydro cylinder hits the die can you re position the ram and keep bending?

The amount of flattening depends not only on the CLR you're using, but also the diameter tube. 4.5 CLR with 2" tubing will flatten out a lot more than 4.5 CLR with 1" tubing.

I have reached the point where the cylinder hits the die. The best part is that once you reach that point the next ram attachment point has swung around so that you can move the ram to the other attachment point to continue bending. Since the tubing is clamped in position with the shoe, your bend continues right where you left off!!

 

[spencer184]

The amount of flattening depends not only on the CLR you're using, but also the diameter tube. 4.5 CLR with 2" tubing will flatten out a lot more than 4.5 CLR with 1" tubing.

I have reached the point where the cylinder hits the die. The best part is that once you reach that point the next ram attachment point has swung around so that you can move the ram to the other attachment point to continue bending. Since the tubing is clamped in position with the shoe, your bend continues right where you left off!!

Exactly what I was hoping to hear, thanks!

 

[half k cruiser]

My latest project. I ditched my old Jerry can holder and worked up this to attach to a 4x4labs rear bumper. I may do another one this summer sized to one of my coolers. That way I can just bolt on whichever one I think I will use.

So far I'm very impressed by the bend quality. I think this summer I will get the 1.75" on 6.0" CLR and try making some sliders for a few of my buddies.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Looks awesome!

 

[e9999]

HalfK, if you're going to go bouncing up and down on some dirt roads, I'd put some braces on that cantilevered platform if held only by those 2 bolts as it seems... and especially so for the cooler if it's gonna have good inside...

 

[half k cruiser]

HalfK, if you're going to go bouncing up and down on some dirt roads, I'd put some braces on that cantilevered platform if held only by those 2 bolts as it seems... and especially so for the cooler if it's gonna have good inside...

I had thought about that, tying them into the lower portion of the ladder maybe. Those triangle's I welded in are 1/4'' gussets tying the top tube and bottom tube together and then back into that 1/4'' piece of angle iron. I was able to do a palm up on it with my 200lbs and didn't have any deflection. I figure just under 90lbs of load for two sceptre cans with fuel. I see what your saying though about the bouncing, potential for a cracked weld.

 

[200 Custodian]

@GLTHFJ60 Ive been researching this bender for a while. ive seen guys get flattening with the 4.5 inch clr dies......anyone here? Also, on the big 6 inch you have once you reach the point where your hydro cylinder hits the die can you re position the ram and keep bending?

A tip for preventing inside radius deformation when bending tubing is to fill the tube with sand and weld caps on the end. It's a bit of a pain in the ass when you're bending long pieces, but if you don't have access to a mandrel, it's a good solution.

 

[half k cruiser]

A tip for preventing inside radius deformation when bending tubing is to fill the tube with sand and weld caps on the end. It's a bit of a pain in the ass when you're bending long pieces, but if you don't have access to a mandrel, it's a good solution.

I would say not necessary with the RF bender. You will get slight deformation regardless, you will of course notice it more with larger diameter tube. To me the whole point of having an actual tube bender is I don't have to do sand and pipe caps or any other hack like I would if trying to make the HF pipe bender work.

 

[spencer184]

A tip for preventing inside radius deformation when bending tubing is to fill the tube with sand and weld caps on the end. It's a bit of a pain in the ass when you're bending long pieces, but if you don't have access to a mandrel, it's a good solution.

I would say not necessary with the RF bender. You will get slight deformation regardless, you will of course notice it more with larger diameter tube. To me the whole point of having an actual tube bender is I don't have to do sand and pipe caps or any other hack like I would if trying to make the HF pipe bender work.

My thoughts exactly

 

[RogueFab]

No problem at all! I for one am glad you're here to answer questions, not that there are many

The one that I do have is that I'd like to upgrade the hydraulic ram I have to make it quieter. Are you aware of a bolt-in substitute to the HF ram? Your electric/hydraulic system for the bender is pricey. I don't think I need the limit switch features, but a quieter ram would be amazing.

There isn't anything off the shelf with the odd combo of dimensions on the HF air/hydro unit we designed the machine around. We sell our bi directional 100% US made cylinders with valve brackets ala carte from our hydraulic setup for $375. That is just a cylinder with a bracket on it. No super cheap way to do it well that I know of. Sorry.