I haven't heard whether the 3.0 fan bolts up to the 3rz or if the 3.0 shroud lines up correctly
Builds RockGoat Version 3RZ (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RichardSkinner
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- Thread starter
- #182
Thanks for the responses.
So I started to grab electric fan components. I got this fan. 2660 CFM at 11 amps sounds great. I did test a similar fan on a power supply at work and saw 15 amp start up that settled to 11.5amps at 14.2 volts.
This fan is on sale on Amazon for $116
16-inch Flex-Wave® Reversible Electric Fan
Flex-A-Lite 16-inch Flex-Wave® reversible electric fan rated at 2,660 cfm
I got this PWM fan controller.
THEN my dumb ass went and started to think, well maybe I should stick with my stock fan until I pass the BAR referee just to have one less that isn't stock that he may not like. Let me try to make this not too wordy.
I pull radiator cap. Fluid is low. Since I had to move my coolant over flow to passenger side (battery relocation and hydro assist lines took it's place) I had to bottle lazily bailing wired in place as temporary.
So TWO problems here.
1. old radiator cap seal was slightly cracked and old. I think fluid was blowing by prematurely to the reservoir.
2. floppy reservoir in the rocks was splashing fluid out. I had seen some on my frame rail when I was on the trail.
I topped the rad and made this bracket to secure the overflow. I also trimmed up the intake shroud to truly fit in the 1st gen 4runner fender well. The hood line and the fuse box area a problem without trimming. I made a hasty little bracket to hold it in place. I will remake that as a nice floor plate when I have more time to kind of seal off that air filter area from splashing water and debris.
Long story short - I hit the Rubicon and met up with some buddies on Saturday. Admittedly, temps were cool - about 60-68 degrees, but it stay pinning at 180-185 on the climb up highway 50/ice house road to the trail from 1300 ft at my house to 6200ft at the trail head. On walker hill, where I saw 213* last weekend before I stopped and let it cool, I saw 196* and never stopped. That was rolling from Ellis bridge all the way to soup bowl if anyone is familiar with the long slow climb.
I don't think I am out of the weeds yet, but I think i can run it like this for a bit longer. Still unsure if I want to go electric fan. I see a lot of people like them and a lot claim it was terrible and went back to mechanical. I like Liveoaks 3.0 rad idea.
- Thread starter
- #183
Oh yeah, also dropped my drive shaft off on Wednesday to have it rebuilt. Cut my CV off and kept it. New 2-5/8" 0.95 wall tube, new slip yoke, and threw in a matsuba U joint I had. Drive shaft looking purdy and back in hand by Friday morning.
If anyone in Sacramento/El Dorado county area needs a drive shaft, don't hesitate to use Adco in Shingle Springs. They were fast and it runs smooth as eggs.
Saturday morning, before heading out to the trail, I noticed a little play in the steering wheel. Looked at the pitman and saw my tie rod end had a lot of play in it. Replaced it with one from my spares box and headed out.
Between the new Adco drive shaft and the TRE refresh, the truck drove like a ****in modern rig. Zero vibrations, zero rumbles. With my suspension set up I also get like no body roll. I am reallllly liking how this truck is coming together. We were ripping 65-70 MPH and my buddy I brought along, commented "this ****in thing drives smoother than my F-150!"
If anyone in Sacramento/El Dorado county area needs a drive shaft, don't hesitate to use Adco in Shingle Springs. They were fast and it runs smooth as eggs.
Saturday morning, before heading out to the trail, I noticed a little play in the steering wheel. Looked at the pitman and saw my tie rod end had a lot of play in it. Replaced it with one from my spares box and headed out.
Between the new Adco drive shaft and the TRE refresh, the truck drove like a ****in modern rig. Zero vibrations, zero rumbles. With my suspension set up I also get like no body roll. I am reallllly liking how this truck is coming together. We were ripping 65-70 MPH and my buddy I brought along, commented "this ****in thing drives smoother than my F-150!"
- Thread starter
- #184
The truck did absolutely fantastic this weekend. Not a single problem and it ate up anything I pointed it at. Blew my buddy's mind that we can wheel the rocks, then air up and shoot home at 65-70MPH smoothly in the same vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #186
why did you go 2wd 3.0 rad vs 4wd? I am looking at the CSF rads and see the 2wd (CSF 2057) is just slightly shorter than the 4wd (CSF 2056). I really don't need the trans cooler loop both of these have. I'd really like a rad with coolant capacity in place of the trans cooler.
I installed a 2056 in my 83 if that helps. Fit is fine. Haven't run it yet so can't comment on performance. Didn't have a great experience with the CSF in my FJ62 tho, wish I would have had that knowledge before I got the 2056.
- Thread starter
- #188
Thanks for the response. I have seen mixed stuff on the 2056 fitting the 84-89 runners. Some said they need to cut the hood some.
What was wrong with the CSF? I’m definitely thinking more fluid capacity if the direction I need to go before considering fan changes. So I’d like to setting on a decent known larger rad, preferably without a trans cooler taking up space that could go to water capacity.
I ran this one with my swap, it's 4 core with no trans oil cooler. It's noticably thicker than the oe one I removed. Fit great with no clearance issues and has been keeping my 2rz plenty cool, even on a couple 90-95 degree days while running a/c.
- Thread starter
- #190
I am not able to find that one on ebay anymore, but I think I recall you have a 90-05 truck? I'm fairly sure those 18.75" tall radiators won't fit in my gen without "modifying the hood" which I can't find more info on. That could mean varying levels of hack job crap being it's a quick blurb from the internet.
This does tempt me, but may be too tall. I'll measure tonight.
Alloyworks 4 Row Radiator with Shroud Fan For 1988-1995 Toyota Pickup 4Runner SR5 DLX 3.0L 23-1/2
Alloyworks is a leading brand of car radiators/heat exchangers and cooling system components. Multiple Payment Options. Sign Up Updates.Free Shipping in US, One-Year Warranty and 30-Days Free Return.Alloyworks provide high-quality products with the best rate of customer satisfaction. Alloyworks...
www.alloyworksplus.com
im running a 90-95 rad.I am not able to find that one on ebay anymore, but I think I recall you have a 90-05 truck? I'm fairly sure those 18.75" tall radiators won't fit in my gen without "modifying the hood" which I can't find more info on. That could mean varying levels of hack job crap being it's a quick blurb from the internet.
This does tempt me, but may be too tall. I'll measure tonight.
Alloyworks 4 Row Radiator with Shroud Fan For 1988-1995 Toyota Pickup 4Runner SR5 DLX 3.0L 23-1/2
Alloyworks is a leading brand of car radiators/heat exchangers and cooling system components. Multiple Payment Options. Sign Up Updates.Free Shipping in US, One-Year Warranty and 30-Days Free Return.Alloyworks provide high-quality products with the best rate of customer satisfaction. Alloyworks...
had to slightly mod the hood because of the cap location. you may be able to mod the mount holes and drop it a touch.
Post in thread 'out with the old, in with the, well, old...' out with the old, in with the, well, old... - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/out-with-the-old-in-with-the-well-old.355254/post-5627967
I went a different direction. I installed a 2-row aluminum radiator. But, the 2-rows fit in the space of 3. So the rows are wider which I think will increase flow. KoyoRad HH012827. Even though it was listed for my 1985, it was not bolt in. The mount from the radiator to the shroud extended into the engine too far. That not only caused the shroud to rub on the AC pulley, it created a gap between the radiator and the shroud. Fortunately, it bolted off and I was able to modify to tuck the shroud into the radiator tighter.
I’m running the CSF 2306 in my 84. During my very short test run I had no overheating issues with it. It’s a taller 3 core radiator that fits 84-89. I have no clue how it’ll do in true heat though compared to the other more documented options.
That is the radiator I was running prior to this. It did just fine.
Yesterday, a 1994 V6 4R showed up at the u-pull. I took some measurements off my 22re fan shroud, then went to the boneyard with a tape measure. I brought the 3.0 shroud and fan home. Setting the 3.0 shroud next to the 22RE shroud it looks like it might work. Width was the same. The 3.0 was slightly taller, and extended lower. Of the 4 bolt holes on the 3.0 shroud, 3 lined up with the 22RE shroud, and one did not. Easy fix. I'll try it as soon as I get the truck back in my possession.
- Thread starter
- #196
Kind of lost interest in updating here - but I'll do a dump since my last real update.
After the late May Rubicon run, I knew I needed to check my tcase clearance to the crossmember because I could hear it rubbing. Dropped the crossmember and found this!
It had rubbed through the aluminum and was wearing the steel bolt! Yikes.
I made some cuts past the rub zone, hammered the steel outward to make room, stitched it back up, and threw on a fresh coat of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint. My transmount was partly to blame, as it was an ancient blown out stock one that was sagging. Threw a Marlin HD mount in and got it all back together and have enough clearance now for engine torque to not cause rubbing.
After the late May Rubicon run, I knew I needed to check my tcase clearance to the crossmember because I could hear it rubbing. Dropped the crossmember and found this!
It had rubbed through the aluminum and was wearing the steel bolt! Yikes.
I made some cuts past the rub zone, hammered the steel outward to make room, stitched it back up, and threw on a fresh coat of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator paint. My transmount was partly to blame, as it was an ancient blown out stock one that was sagging. Threw a Marlin HD mount in and got it all back together and have enough clearance now for engine torque to not cause rubbing.
- Thread starter
- #197
After the t-case mount repair, I hit Fordyce during the morning with my daughter for her first run. She had a blast. The engine did climb up to 220F before shutting down and letting it cool. More to come on cooling in next post. Here are some shots of the trip.
Driveline hill - My 4 year old daughters first real crawling experience. We went down to Pierce Loop and let the kids play in the S. Yuba River, then wheeled up to Eagles Lakes.
After that we loaded up, and the other guys headed home. I dropped my daughter off at home and then shot up to the Rubicon Chalet to meet at buddy at 7PM for a night run into Buck Island. Fordyce and Rubicon in the same day
It was hailing at Loon Lake as we pulled up, but the storm was blowing into the trail. That helped me not have any cooling issues through the night run. We chased the tail end of the storm in. Absolutely zero dust was very nice.
Camp at Buck
The slabs on the way out
Driveline hill - My 4 year old daughters first real crawling experience. We went down to Pierce Loop and let the kids play in the S. Yuba River, then wheeled up to Eagles Lakes.
After that we loaded up, and the other guys headed home. I dropped my daughter off at home and then shot up to the Rubicon Chalet to meet at buddy at 7PM for a night run into Buck Island. Fordyce and Rubicon in the same day
It was hailing at Loon Lake as we pulled up, but the storm was blowing into the trail. That helped me not have any cooling issues through the night run. We chased the tail end of the storm in. Absolutely zero dust was very nice.
Camp at Buck
The slabs on the way out
- Thread starter
- #198
Following up on the cooling system:Thanks for the responses.
So I started to grab electric fan components. I got this fan. 2660 CFM at 11 amps sounds great. I did test a similar fan on a power supply at work and saw 15 amp start up that settled to 11.5amps at 14.2 volts.
This fan is on sale on Amazon for $116
16-inch Flex-Wave® Reversible Electric Fan
Flex-A-Lite 16-inch Flex-Wave® reversible electric fan rated at 2,660 cfmflex-a-lite.com
I got this PWM fan controller.
THEN my dumb ass went and started to think, well maybe I should stick with my stock fan until I pass the BAR referee just to have one less that isn't stock that he may not like. Let me try to make this not too wordy.
I pull radiator cap. Fluid is low. Since I had to move my coolant over flow to passenger side (battery relocation and hydro assist lines took it's place) I had to bottle lazily bailing wired in place as temporary.
So TWO problems here.
1. old radiator cap seal was slightly cracked and old. I think fluid was blowing by prematurely to the reservoir.
2. floppy reservoir in the rocks was splashing fluid out. I had seen some on my frame rail when I was on the trail.
I topped the rad and made this bracket to secure the overflow. I also trimmed up the intake shroud to truly fit in the 1st gen 4runner fender well. The hood line and the fuse box area a problem without trimming. I made a hasty little bracket to hold it in place. I will remake that as a nice floor plate when I have more time to kind of seal off that air filter area from splashing water and debris.
View attachment 3641905
Long story short - I hit the Rubicon and met up with some buddies on Saturday. Admittedly, temps were cool - about 60-68 degrees, but it stay pinning at 180-185 on the climb up highway 50/ice house road to the trail from 1300 ft at my house to 6200ft at the trail head. On walker hill, where I saw 213* last weekend before I stopped and let it cool, I saw 196* and never stopped. That was rolling from Ellis bridge all the way to soup bowl if anyone is familiar with the long slow climb.
I don't think I am out of the weeds yet, but I think i can run it like this for a bit longer. Still unsure if I want to go electric fan. I see a lot of people like them and a lot claim it was terrible and went back to mechanical. I like Liveoaks 3.0 rad idea.
Looking at my existing 2 core CSF style rad, it was crusty and a lot of the fins were bent and restricting air flow.
I went with this Champion rad. The dimensions are a bit bigger in the tank and the core area is bigger. There absolutely is bigger rads out there, but after looking at my hood clearance and everything, I didn't want to monkey around too much.
4 Runner Radiator (84-91) 2.4L L4
Fabbed a shroud for some stand off from the rad.
PWM controller. Adding the second temp block into the coolant return is a little hack, but whatever - it works and the left side one is for my glow shift gauge temp gauge I trust.
When I installed this it was during our 100-110 heatwave or a couple weeks. I ran it up a huge hill in low through different RPM with no forward motion air flow. Also ran the big grades on highway 50 at 65 MPH. It stays pinned with in 185-190 degrees. I dialed the controller to kick on just after 180 degrees and it ramps up to 100% by 195 degrees.
I am really liking this system. 11 amps at 13.8v is 151.8 watts. Roughly 0.2 horse power. Assuming the alternator is 50% efficient, it would take less than 1/2 HP load to generate the electrical power needed to run the fan at full bore. During my test I rarely heard the fan at full bore. There are a lot of tests showing mechanical fans taking 3-8 HP to run. I really do feel like I can feel a small power increase from ditching the mechanical fan, but your mileage may vary.
Just something to consider about cooling on the 3RZ. It took me awhile to get used to this.
On the 22RE, the thermostat is on the output side of the engine. The gauge sender is before the thermostat.
On the 3RZ the thermostat is on the INPUT side, and the gauge sender is on the output side. Think about it. The thermostat is 180°. The coolant travels into the engine at 180°, through the engine, and it's coming out the other end hotter than it went in. The coolant is not going to be 180° when it comes back out to the radiator. There is another temp sensor at the back of the 3RZ that is read by the OBD.
On my truck, the OBD reads usually around 187°, but I've seen it as high as 190°. It comes out the other end usually around 195°, but I've seen it as high as 210°.
Your 220° reading might be a higher than you like, but it's not crazy.
- Thread starter
- #200
Good thoughts. I had considered that as well, but had never read the exact incoming water temp from the rad to see what it begins the loop as. No sensor there and didn't think to perhaps use the IR temp gun for curiosity.
I do run a bluetooth OBD app on my phone and monitor the water temp PID from the temp sensor on the back of the head. I believe that would be more like a "mid flow" temp? I haven't really looked at the exact water circuit, but the water definitely has to travel back through the head at least to the output at the front of the engine. At that point is where my PWM controller gets it's temp and where my glow shift gauge is pulling from - seen in the pics above.
The glow shift gauge reads about maybe 5 degrees hotter at the coolant going into the rad than the OBD reads on the back of the head. My PWM adjustments I mentioned above are dialed off the OBD read out.
