- Thread starter
- #141
Oh, duhhh. That makes sense looking at the tie down strap orientation. I'm not thinking straight -- that's how mine is oriented as well. I'll take a look and keep it in mind. Thanks.
RockGoat Version 3RZ (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RichardSkinner
- Start date
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If you have a saginaw p-pump handy you can see how easy it is to mount in the stock ps pump bracket. A little opening of the holes and it'll mount right up. If you use a serpentine pulley from Dorman, you can get the belt to ride in the middle of the wider serpentine pulley (6 row pulley as opposed to 4 row toyota pulley) and it works great. I have done this to multiple 3rz/2rz swaps in toyota powered buggies and it is a huge upgrade as far as hydraulic power goes. I have a few friends who run saginaw p-pumps on full hydro systems with just the stock "canned ham" reservoir mounted on the pump. I stay away from the TC pumps because they are expensive and don't seem to last as long as conventional p-pumps.
As a note. if you do use a p-pump, try to get the one from a mid 80's Chevrolet pickup that had hydroboosted brakes as they make more pressure. The fitting to convert to AN adapters for the toyota box and the p-pump are easy to find and will allow you to use easy to find hydraulic hoses at your local shop.
I can send you pictures of this setup if you are interested, PM me and I'll get a few for you. Happy to dig up all of the appropriate parts numbers if you need as well.
PS pumps are one area where toyota fell a bit short in my opinion, every time I add a p-pump to a toyota power steering setup it vastly improves the steering ability of the rig. I use them in all of my rigs
- Thread starter
- #143
All solid info and I really appreciate the offer to help. However, I did get a PSC TC style pump right after my last post regarding the HP ARB install. That was my next task, but the kid came a couple weeks early, so it's shelved for just a little bit. Hopefully you're wrong about the PSC pump failing, because the setup wasn't cheap! haha.
Much appreciated offer though. If the PSC fails I know who I will hit up for info.
- Thread starter
- #144
Welp. Been putting on some miles here and there, and all is good EXCEPT I had noticed a very small coolant leak dripping from back of the block. Upon looking more, it’s a fairly annoying scenario. The coolant bypass on the back of the block that goes to the heater core valve is the source.
Seen in this pic with the rubber hose attached.
If I recall that little “manifold” is aluminum and the tube the hose connects to is a steel tube. Getting in there with a scope, it appears that the leak is between that joint. I can’t quite see anything leaking from the rubber hose junction. It’s nearly impossible to access the 3x12mm bolts to remove that bypass without pulling the engine. I MAY be able to very get it off 1/16th turn at a time if I remove the intake plenum and all the stuff blocking access, but that’s a gamble.
Top of engine is towards left in this pic
Bottom side of the bypass block. Top of engine is oriented to the lower left of pic.
Now with top of engine at top of pic, and looking back towards the rubber hose, I don’t see any leak by.
Unfortunately the engine might need to be pulled to get to this to fix it. This isn't really something I could predict when I was rebuilding. Visually it looked ok. I've got two theories:
1. I bumped it pretty hard on the firewall or something and cracked the steel tube loose when dropping the engine in. I don't recall anything like that, but who knows?
2. There was a little galvanic corrosion from the two dissimilar metals and it just showed up with that leak. I am leaning towards this answer.
The good side is that in the last 130 miles I drove, it only needed the rad topped with just a few ounces. I am thinking I may just keep her topped off for King of the Hammers and deal with this after. I am trailering down and shouldn't use more than a tank of gas there.
Seen in this pic with the rubber hose attached.
If I recall that little “manifold” is aluminum and the tube the hose connects to is a steel tube. Getting in there with a scope, it appears that the leak is between that joint. I can’t quite see anything leaking from the rubber hose junction. It’s nearly impossible to access the 3x12mm bolts to remove that bypass without pulling the engine. I MAY be able to very get it off 1/16th turn at a time if I remove the intake plenum and all the stuff blocking access, but that’s a gamble.
Top of engine is towards left in this pic
Bottom side of the bypass block. Top of engine is oriented to the lower left of pic.
Now with top of engine at top of pic, and looking back towards the rubber hose, I don’t see any leak by.
Unfortunately the engine might need to be pulled to get to this to fix it. This isn't really something I could predict when I was rebuilding. Visually it looked ok. I've got two theories:
1. I bumped it pretty hard on the firewall or something and cracked the steel tube loose when dropping the engine in. I don't recall anything like that, but who knows?
2. There was a little galvanic corrosion from the two dissimilar metals and it just showed up with that leak. I am leaning towards this answer.
The good side is that in the last 130 miles I drove, it only needed the rad topped with just a few ounces. I am thinking I may just keep her topped off for King of the Hammers and deal with this after. I am trailering down and shouldn't use more than a tank of gas there.
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- Thread starter
- #145
I’m due for some updates. Been scrambling to get some crap done before KOH. Named hydro assist, but I’ll start with the dolly ghetto work..
So I’m not proud of this, but it’s a Hail Mary attempt for the weeping coolant bypass. I figure I may as well try glopping some JB Weld around the coolant tube. It’s super damn hard to access, but I was able to pull the wire harness back to make a hair of room to try.
Brace yourselves. This is ugly, but if it keeps the slow weep down to an even slower weep then I can kick the can for a few months. I’ll probably unbolt trans and engine mounts later this year to rock the engine forward and replace this whole unit once I find a good one.
Pic through the scope
So I’m not proud of this, but it’s a Hail Mary attempt for the weeping coolant bypass. I figure I may as well try glopping some JB Weld around the coolant tube. It’s super damn hard to access, but I was able to pull the wire harness back to make a hair of room to try.
Brace yourselves. This is ugly, but if it keeps the slow weep down to an even slower weep then I can kick the can for a few months. I’ll probably unbolt trans and engine mounts later this year to rock the engine forward and replace this whole unit once I find a good one.
Pic through the scope
- Thread starter
- #146
Finishing up hydro assist now.
Pulled the box. Here’s how she looked. Amazing what a cost of PS fluid will do for preservation.
The centering valve was seized in. An impact (true hammertype- whatever that’s called) couldn’t free it up without stripping the head. Had to weld a bolt on, but luckily got it free.
Pulled apart, everything looked good. drilled it and tapped.
Got her all degreased, tapped, and cleaned up.
Pulled the box. Here’s how she looked. Amazing what a cost of PS fluid will do for preservation.
The centering valve was seized in. An impact (true hammertype- whatever that’s called) couldn’t free it up without stripping the head. Had to weld a bolt on, but luckily got it free.
Pulled apart, everything looked good. drilled it and tapped.
Got her all degreased, tapped, and cleaned up.
Sweet build! Looks like you're just up the hill from me. I swear I've seen your rig before around the Placerville area. I couldn't help but laugh at your Maita dealer story. I used to use that dealer religiously because there was the most amazing parts guy there. He eventually moved on because that dealer (like most) treats there employees like crap. Why not use Placerville Or Folsom? Stay far away from Roseville if you can LOL. Anyways, I would be VERY interested in feeling the power increase on the 3RZ compared to my 22RE if you ever had the time....
- Thread starter
- #148
Thanks, man! The goat skull is easy way to spot mine
I used maita because it’s kind of near my work and I wanted to run over on lunch to grab it. I’ll definitely switch to placerville for any dealership parts.
Shoot me a DM if you want to give it a test drive, that’d be no problem. If you want to get a snow run in sometime we could meet up in feb.
- Thread starter
- #149
Ok, so the stock 3RZ PS pump was dead due to the cooler being ruptured during the front end collision on the donor. The owner was running it dry on fluid. I had been doing the break in runs with no power steering. So time for an upgrade before KOH - and my first real wheeling trip since the engine rebuild/swap.
PSC pump, resi, cooler, and TG ram are installed!! Not stoked about the TG ram but I found a “new” used one for cheap and I’m over budget at this point so I figured why not try it.
small mod - I may remove this. After cutting my airbox to fit in front of the fender and under the hood I felt like it may suck up leaves or some other random crap that can float up on that shelf it sits on.
Edit to add:
I made a 3D printed intake screen out of ABS. That’s what the above pic is. I recently got a bambu lab P1S printer, so going to be making a few parts for the truck.
PSC pump, resi, cooler, and TG ram are installed!! Not stoked about the TG ram but I found a “new” used one for cheap and I’m over budget at this point so I figured why not try it.
small mod - I may remove this. After cutting my airbox to fit in front of the fender and under the hood I felt like it may suck up leaves or some other random crap that can float up on that shelf it sits on.
Edit to add:
I made a 3D printed intake screen out of ABS. That’s what the above pic is. I recently got a bambu lab P1S printer, so going to be making a few parts for the truck.
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- Thread starter
- #150
Well KOH2024 was a great time. Here’s a clip of the 3RZ ripping. I’ll post up a more detailed trip report tomorrow
- Thread starter
- #151
And a bit of a party/wheeling clip 
- Thread starter
- #152
I chucked the Marlin short throw shifter in just before leaving. There are definitely cheaper options out there. LCE, or Gnob style home made. Man, this thing makes the W56 feel really nice, although the synchros can only do so much and it is kind of easy to hang up and miss a shift. I noticed that it's easier to miss a shift when ripping around in the sand. I am sure it will be the same in the snow, although usually when snow wheeling it is easy to lose momentum and miss a shift point.
I got a trailer from a guy who I suspected as a bit of a goofball. He told me "oh yeah it has no problems I am aware of. And I just repacked the wheel bearings." I didn't bring a jack or tools with me to check the trailer bearings, which was a mistake, but I bought the thing because it was a decent deal. Mehh, I should have known better. Well, just after I finished the short throw shifter I thought I better double check those wheel bearings. I jack up the trailer and wiggle the wheel by hand... there is a solid 1/8"+ of play at the treads of the tire. Holy s***. So after a parts store run for all new bearings and seals all around, I feel good enough about the trailer. All the bearings were sloppy and had noticeable play when wobbling the wheel by hand. Pack up and off the next morning! No trailer issues through the whole ~900 mile trip, but I absolutely know I dodged a serious mess on that one.
Arrived on the lake bed Wednesday evening, and it's BEER TIME!
We got some decent rain all Thursday which I completely welcome. This was the clearest I have ever seen KOH. No dust was absolutely amazing.
Our normal spot is tucked away far across the valley floor up towards Jackhammer/Sledgehammer pass. It's definitely an interesting pull to get the tow rigs out there, but we like that spot. This year they moved the course and we have front row seats to a new drop off for the race. We have been in this spot for about 5 years now and every year we wonder if some jag off will try to snake the spot before us. So don't do it! hahaha.
I got a trailer from a guy who I suspected as a bit of a goofball. He told me "oh yeah it has no problems I am aware of. And I just repacked the wheel bearings." I didn't bring a jack or tools with me to check the trailer bearings, which was a mistake, but I bought the thing because it was a decent deal. Mehh, I should have known better. Well, just after I finished the short throw shifter I thought I better double check those wheel bearings. I jack up the trailer and wiggle the wheel by hand... there is a solid 1/8"+ of play at the treads of the tire. Holy s***. So after a parts store run for all new bearings and seals all around, I feel good enough about the trailer. All the bearings were sloppy and had noticeable play when wobbling the wheel by hand. Pack up and off the next morning! No trailer issues through the whole ~900 mile trip, but I absolutely know I dodged a serious mess on that one.
Arrived on the lake bed Wednesday evening, and it's BEER TIME!
We got some decent rain all Thursday which I completely welcome. This was the clearest I have ever seen KOH. No dust was absolutely amazing.
Our normal spot is tucked away far across the valley floor up towards Jackhammer/Sledgehammer pass. It's definitely an interesting pull to get the tow rigs out there, but we like that spot. This year they moved the course and we have front row seats to a new drop off for the race. We have been in this spot for about 5 years now and every year we wonder if some jag off will try to snake the spot before us. So don't do it! hahaha.
The short throw is a nice upgrade imo. I bought a used marlin one years ago and was very happy with it.
- Thread starter
- #155
I am really liking it. It's no LS or UZ power house, but it feels about like what I would want these trucks to feel like stock, in an ideal yet realistic world. 5th gear was basically useless unless I was on completely flat ground and up at 3000+RPM which with 5.29 and 35" is about 65mph+. Any SLIGHT incline off a flat plane and I was dropping to 4th. On highway 50 up near my house in El Dorado County it was basically living in 4th, running hills in 3rd, and possibly screwing with dropping into 2nd if I lose momentum due to traffic. The 22re in this unit seemed a bit more tired than my previous 4runner.
Now with the 3RZ, not only is 5th actually useful, but I can stay in it on some small inclines as long as I am up in the right RPM range. For significant hills, I can stick in 4th gear just fine. I even find myself cruising around town (I have a lot of hills) in 4th just over 40mph, which used to be like an awkward mid-shift speed in a 22re, and get confused when I realize what gear I am in. Like a moment of "wtf? am I in 4th gear right now?? Oh s***, I really am."
On the trail, I noticed myself wheeling a lot more in just 4.7:1. The lower end torque helps a whole lot. I ran in the sand a bit, but didn't want to be too hard on it, as I am still definitely breaking this thing in and was already pushing it a little more than I wanted. However, it did feel like the power curve seems to drop off much more abruptly than I remember the 22re. I will probably get some snow wheeling in relatively soon and I will look for this.
- Thread starter
- #156
Recap of KOH2024 for the RockGoat:
1st off I forgot my remount my goat skull.
Engine did great - I went over that just above.
The hydro assist setup is amazing. It's nice to be able to actually do what I want when I want in the rocks. I am starting to really consider my exit strategy if I shear off the steering arm studs from the knuckle however. I think I may need to throw a bolt extractor and some spare studs in my spares box I bring in the mean time.
I am considering keying my knuckles and Marlin steering arms on a buddy's mill, however I think that will give me problems with the drag link contacting the leafs at passenger droop again. I had that problem last year right before KOH2023 when I pushed the steering box and installed the Sky 3F springs. Removing the single small leaf and adding shims for castor angle gave me just enough clearance. Keying the knuckle and steering arm would bring the TRE mounting surface down a small amount and I almost surely would be back into the same problem as last year.
Any ideas? FROR used to have a "high" option, but now I am only seeing normal and flat on their site. I may have to contact them. Definitely one option, although expensive. Six shooters are another option, but I'd rather support FROR if I am throwing cash.
frontrangeoffroadfab.com
I found a rotator light in a dumpster at work. It's a great party light. Magnetic base and plugs into cigarette lighter. Couldn't let that go to waste.
So the bad:
Basically my dumbass installed that high pinion ARB and apparently didn't notice the line was getting grabbed by the ring gear. I did fit it up and turn the pinion by hand and couldn't feel it grabbing, but it must have been ever so slightly. The first night I was on a warm up trail run at Tackhammer, went to engage the locker, and thought I had an airleak. After swapping solenoids, line, fittings, and spraying soap water, I realized the "leak" was actually just the air blowing straight out the diff breather because the vent line is routed right up near my ARB compressor.
I thought about hitting up the ARB tent for parts and pulling it all apart on my trailer, but with the dust and burning majority of a day to get all that done, I just said screw it and wheeled with an open front. Didn't stop me from running resolution, turkey claw, and some other smaller trails. It was actually kind of fun to have the challenge of no front locker.
Pulled it apart last weekend:
1st off I forgot my remount my goat skull.
Engine did great - I went over that just above.
The hydro assist setup is amazing. It's nice to be able to actually do what I want when I want in the rocks. I am starting to really consider my exit strategy if I shear off the steering arm studs from the knuckle however. I think I may need to throw a bolt extractor and some spare studs in my spares box I bring in the mean time.
I am considering keying my knuckles and Marlin steering arms on a buddy's mill, however I think that will give me problems with the drag link contacting the leafs at passenger droop again. I had that problem last year right before KOH2023 when I pushed the steering box and installed the Sky 3F springs. Removing the single small leaf and adding shims for castor angle gave me just enough clearance. Keying the knuckle and steering arm would bring the TRE mounting surface down a small amount and I almost surely would be back into the same problem as last year.
Any ideas? FROR used to have a "high" option, but now I am only seeing normal and flat on their site. I may have to contact them. Definitely one option, although expensive. Six shooters are another option, but I'd rather support FROR if I am throwing cash.
Keyed Steering Arms - Normal
Transform your off-roading experience with Keyed Steering Arms at the "normal" height. Machined in-house, from billet, for the best steering arms you can buy!
I found a rotator light in a dumpster at work. It's a great party light. Magnetic base and plugs into cigarette lighter. Couldn't let that go to waste.
So the bad:
Basically my dumbass installed that high pinion ARB and apparently didn't notice the line was getting grabbed by the ring gear. I did fit it up and turn the pinion by hand and couldn't feel it grabbing, but it must have been ever so slightly. The first night I was on a warm up trail run at Tackhammer, went to engage the locker, and thought I had an airleak. After swapping solenoids, line, fittings, and spraying soap water, I realized the "leak" was actually just the air blowing straight out the diff breather because the vent line is routed right up near my ARB compressor.
I thought about hitting up the ARB tent for parts and pulling it all apart on my trailer, but with the dust and burning majority of a day to get all that done, I just said screw it and wheeled with an open front. Didn't stop me from running resolution, turkey claw, and some other smaller trails. It was actually kind of fun to have the challenge of no front locker.
Pulled it apart last weekend:
- Thread starter
- #157
So I just replaced the line and reinstalled the diff this weekend. This is a post for anyone searching for Toyota 8" high pinion ARB RD132 copper line routing.
Marlin built this third, and they had the line routed directly over the front of the ring gear. That's the section where the sheet metal is formed to contour the ring gear. I tried that method again this weekend and could feel the ring gear grabbing the line big time when turning the pinion by hand. It might be possible, but it's real tight. Digging back in my pics from last year, this is how Marlin sends them.
The back of the housing wall, in the flat area near the bearing caps, is about 4.75" from the mounting surface. The flange that hangs down into the housing is about 3.25" from the mount surface. This is where the ARB instructions send it over.
Routed the correct way, it has a nice area of room to cross at inside the housing. ARB instructions show it routed roughly here, but they don't explain that distancing method.
Marlin built this third, and they had the line routed directly over the front of the ring gear. That's the section where the sheet metal is formed to contour the ring gear. I tried that method again this weekend and could feel the ring gear grabbing the line big time when turning the pinion by hand. It might be possible, but it's real tight. Digging back in my pics from last year, this is how Marlin sends them.
The back of the housing wall, in the flat area near the bearing caps, is about 4.75" from the mounting surface. The flange that hangs down into the housing is about 3.25" from the mount surface. This is where the ARB instructions send it over.
Routed the correct way, it has a nice area of room to cross at inside the housing. ARB instructions show it routed roughly here, but they don't explain that distancing method.
Definitely jealous of your KOH trip. I went about 8 years ago and it was a blast! I was working for Georg @ valley hybrids at the time and we got to be part of a pit crew for a driver called rusty nail I think. He drove a 87 xtra cab totally done up. Seriously one of the coolest trips I’ve been on. All your pics definitely bring back a lot of good memories. Glad to hear the RZ did good. I’ve got the FROR keyed knuckles on my truck and they have been great, no issues. Also, I’ve always looked at the short throw shifters and for whatever reason thought they were kinda gay, like they were for tuner car kids but that was then and now after rowing gears over and over I’m like hmmmm, that looks kinda useful. Anyways, how do you know your caster will get all screwed up with just a small amount of adjustment? Do you have a good place where you take your rig for alignment checks?
- Thread starter
- #159
Awesome. Rusty Nail is badass. They've won 1st place stock class EMC before. Super impressive in a leaf sprung 4 banger. KOH has changed a lot since 8 years ago. That's about when I started going too. Honestly it feels like every year they are going to have trouble getting the permits because it's become so wild. This year the rain actually seemed to calm it down a little, so that's good.
I think we gotta meet up. I'd like to see your rig. Looks super clean. Checking out the keyed knuckles and getting some measurements would be nice. You mentioned wanting to try the RZ, and there is the short throw shifter to try as well now.
Check the bottom of this post for info on the springs hitting the drag link.
RockGoat Version 3RZ
I would like a build log so that I can look back on this rig, laugh at my lessons, and keep in perspective that I am indeed making progress. If you want to watch a guy learn from the school of hardknocks then tune in every once in a while. Back story - My brother had a 1987 4runner and I had a...
forum.ih8mud.com
Here's a post on the shims. It was more correcting pinion angle, and adding castor helped a small amount to raise the steering arms to help clearance. My castor might indeed be slightly too positive, but better than negative. It tracks ok and no death wobble, sooo?
RockGoat Version 3RZ
I would like a build log so that I can look back on this rig, laugh at my lessons, and keep in perspective that I am indeed making progress. If you want to watch a guy learn from the school of hardknocks then tune in every once in a while. Back story - My brother had a 1987 4runner and I had a...
forum.ih8mud.com
Very cool! Yea, I agree it would be nice to see a few mods you've done to your rig. I think it would be fun to do a mini mud meet with a few local rigs but looks like the old nor cal moderator moved to Tennessee lol. Last time I had my truck aligned they said I had damn near perfect caster numbers but its been so long I cant remember if I modified my front leaf pack after that or not. Is there a quick way I can check my caster using an angle finder?
