Rock slider recommendations. (1 Viewer)

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I've been looking at the eBay pre-cut and bent option posted above as well. Has anyone tried to modify a 4th gen 4Runner slider to fit an 80? It looks like they are also 69" in length and can be found at a third or half the cost of what people want for 80 sliders.
 
I am super suspicious of those eBay ones. It was $88 for a 22ft section of 1-3/4" by .120 wall. It would take all that and more to create those. Then if you factor in labor cost and profit.... Doesn't add up.
 
Before people can make reasonable recommendations, the question of why you are putting them on comes to mind. Are you running trails and want body armor to help prevent body damage? Do you like the look and that is the main concern? I ask because the two items are not necessarily related. I also suggest if you get them for wheeling and will be bashing the heck out of them, do not powder coat them but instead just paint them. For looks, powder coating is awesome.

I have OPOR ones from MetalTech on my rigs. They have really taken a beating and hold up well. Beefy.
So, I am trying to get some to do more rock crawling, and thus to protect the body of the car
 
I highly recommend building your own, its a fun intensive project! Take a welding class at your school or local college and ask to do this as a side project! Cost is much cheaper as well. I built 2 sets, one for a 97 one for a 94. I believe it was right around $440 for 1 set (paint not included). It could of been cheaper but I gave the guy bending the kickout pipes extra (he knocked them out in 2 hours same day!). Then I had to buy 20 ft sticks so ended up with 40 ft of metal when I only around needed 24 ft to do both.

breakdown:
$450 for all the metal 2 - 2x3x3/16, 2 - 1-3/4 DOM w/.120 wall, 1 - 2x2x3/16, 1 1/4"x3", 1 3/8"x3", 1 1/8"x3" (extra just in case)
$200 to bend the 4 kickouts (outsourced to a local company)
$160 welding consumables (about 10 lbs of wire, 1 tank of size 4 mix, few cuttoffs, grinding wheels)
$70 for the 3/8" u-bolts (mcmaster sourced, grade 2 which is why they are doubled up)

Labor cost freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee lol, i didn't have anything better to do anyways.

The advantage of building your own is they can be customized. I used WKOR sliders as reference for design. I wanted the slider to stick out further and have a larger kickout than the WKOR sliders had. The front is a 4" radius bend and the kickout is a 6" radius bend. I also customized the angle and placement of them. Then the total length is longer than most purchasable ones as well. I believe the total length is 71-3/4". This still leaves about 1" of unprotected rocker between the slider on each side before the wheel well. By far the hardest part is getting the compound cuts right for the frame to slider support. I recommend using 1.5x1.5 wood pieces to trial fit your cuts before cutting the metal 2x2s.

I can jack the vehicle up with on them and they don't flex at all. Even with the jack on the end away from the frame supports. I kind of wished I went with 1/8" instead of 3/16" because man they are beefy!

Instead of U-bolts you could create a U out of metal and use a bolt at the top. I am okay with the u-bolts though. Even though the u bolts are 3/8" compared to some other slider manufacturers larger diameter ones, the proof load of each bolt and tensile strength is very good. 4250 lbs proof load and 5750 min lb tensile strength. They are also super easy to source. I had a difficult time trying to source reasonably priced ones Mcmaster car rates them at 1075 lb capacity. This is because the application is for hanging stuff architecturally so there is likely a built in safety factor!View attachment 2369394View attachment 2369395View attachment 2369393

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Thanks for the list of materials, Ill give it a shot
 
+1 for White Knuckle.
 
I am also for building your own. School project would be a great idea or you could make friends with people who have welders and tube benders. I am happy to do that work for people who are willing to come help me on my projects at other times. Good way to meet like minded folks. Heck there may even be a Landcruiser club close to you with guys in it who will help out.

I also second the paint them route. Powder coat or bed liner gets damaged and is hard to repair. Paint can be touched up without even removing the sliders from the truck. I bed linered my front bumper and regret it now.

There are lots of build on here with home made sliders so do some reading, pick a style you like, spend some time mocking them up with card board and/or PVC pipe and then go to town. Post some pics of your work and ask questions. Good luck!
 
Relocate/raise your Cats. I have seen several times where cat protection causes the hangup.

I second this comment!

I really wish I changed mine but was time constrained. I decided against doing it because they were unfortunately rusted to the point where once you touch them there is no turning back. It would of been quite the task. Since they were not leaking and not currently giving me any trouble I left them. Now they rattle on the protection piece every once in a while because foolish me thought 3/8" would be enough clearance. In hindsight if you leave them give yourself at least 1/2" clearance or more!
 
I am super suspicious of those eBay ones. It was $88 for a 22ft section of 1-3/4" by .120 wall. It would take all that and more to create those. Then if you factor in labor cost and profit.... Doesn't add up.

I'm not. Have you ever gone into Home Depot or Lowes and bought metal to build something. It is much much more expensive than wholesale prices.

You're paying $290 shipped for basic weld on sliders.

I had Avid off road sliders on my Tacoma and they were $350 plus shipping wasn't bad. I think it was $500 with nice step plates, kickout and shipping, and these were Nice sliders, but nothing fancy. No custom cage for cat protection, same sliders could be adapted to multiple vehicles.

The thing is, every FJ related part has a significant price mark up to it. On vehicles where there's more volume like jeeps and Tacomas, the markup is much less. If you can adapt something from another platform it will be much cheaper. With the FJ80 the volumes are so low for a custom piece, it drives up the cost, and you guys are willing to pay it.

This guy is getting out of high school, he doesn't have $1000 for sliders. This is not a what's the best slider out there question. It's what can I use to protect my truck for cheap. For which, the best answer is closer to: a good spotter, drive slow over obstacles, be careful, and you should be fine. This truck has a hell of a lot of clearance, stock. I'd say buy some nice tires before sliders. Oh, and coming from someone who just put in lockers, you don't need those either. Mud or maybe sand seems to be the only thing they might be needed for. The articulation of the suspension in this platform is ridiculous.
 
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I'm not. Have you ever gone into Home Depot or Lowes and bought metal to build something. It is much much more expensive than wholesale prices.

You're paying $290 shipped for basic weld on sliders.

I had Avid off road sliders on my Tacoma and they were $350 plus shipping wasn't bad. I think it was $500 with nice step plates, kickout and shipping, and these were Nice sliders, but nothing fancy. No custom cage for cat protection, same sliders could be adapted to multiple vehicles.

The thing is, every FJ related part has a significant price mark up to it. On vehicles where there's more volume like jeeps and Tacomas, the markup is much less. If you can adapt something from another platform it will be much cheaper. With the FJ80 the volumes are so low for a custom piece, it drives up the cost, and you guys are willing to pay it.

This guy is getting out of high school, he doesn't have $1000 for sliders. This is not a what's the best slider out there question. It's what can I use to protect my truck for cheap. For which, the best answer is closer to: a good spotter, drive slow over obstacles, be careful, and you should be fine. This truck has a hell of a lot of clearance, stock. I'd say buy some nice tires before sliders. Oh, and coming from someone who just put in lockers, you don't need those either. Mud or maybe sand seems to be the only thing they might be needed for. The articulation of the suspension in this platform is ridiculous.


Good luck going into home depot or Lowe's and buying a 22 ft section of 1-3/4" .120 wall DOM tube. Good luck buying 22ft of DOM online for $88.
 
Good luck going into home depot or Lowe's and buying a 22 ft section of 1-3/4" .120 wall DOM tube. Good luck buying 22ft of DOM online for $88.

Yes, this is exactly what I'm saying. However, the prices we buy at, are not near the same as wholesale.

For example: Harbor Freight Folding Trailer $350

You cannot go anywhere and buy the amount of steel in that trailer for anywhere near $350. Doesn't mean it's not steel, just cheap chinese steel bought at bulk prices.
 
Yes, this is exactly what I'm saying. However, the prices we buy at, are not near the same as wholesale.

For example: Harbor Freight Folding Trailer $350

You cannot go anywhere and buy the amount of steel in that trailer for anywhere near $350. Doesn't mean it's not steel, just cheap chinese steel bought at bulk prices.

??? Anyone can buy that steel. You or I can get it for maybe $150-175. Maybe less I can't tell thickness.

You need to step your game up and look for better sources.... Look for local metal suppliers, you can get hell of a lot cheaper than big box retailers or online. The prices I mentioned anyone can get it for that price from a metal supply company. Just drive up pay pick it up.
 
Good luck going into home depot or Lowe's and buying a 22 ft section of 1-3/4" .120 wall DOM tube. Good luck buying 22ft of DOM online for $88.
I'm getting lost as to what your point is. Are you saying steel is cheap or expensive?

I'm getting to:
1c69c2.jpg
 
Is Cruising Off Road still making sliders? Looks they they took them off their web page.

Slee said Tube Sliders will be in stock possibly towards the end of they year....:confused:
 
Do you have a pic of them?

Do you have a pic of them?

Start at post 6 to see the boot grips welded and positioned before welding.
 

Start at post 6 to see the boot grips welded and positioned before welding.
They look amazing! How much did it cost you to powdercoat em?
 
They look amazing! How much did it cost you to powdercoat em?
Powdercoat!? No man, that's rattle-can-black.;)
Its Krylon Ultra Flat Cammo, over gray primer.
They've been on for a little over a year and to be honest, the tops could use a touch up.
 

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