Rims Question (1 Viewer)

[GADZLCRZR]

First time posting and in need of assistance. I recently purchased a 97 LC and added a 2" suspension lift from Iron Man 4x4 (which is awesome). I am having trouble finding rims that fit the hub and now debating if I should put on spacers but wanted feedback from people that have more experience than me. I bought the tires already, BFG 285/75/17 and tried getting the rims I bought online installed and the wheels wouldn't slide over the hub even though it showed 106.1mm diameter. Here is the link to the 8.5" x 17" rims I bought, MKW Offroad M205 M205-1785655000A 17x8.5 6/139.7 0 Offset 106.10 Satin Black Wheel | 1010Tires.com Online Wheel and Tire Store - https://www.1010tires.com/Wheels/MKW+Offroad/M205/M205-1785655000A?vehicleid=75369 (image below), in case it's helpful to look at the specs. Is this a common problem? I'm dying to get new shoes put on this and see how it rides. Any recommendations on who I can buy rims from that will fit (assuming I can send these back) or am I okay putting on spacers? If spacers are a viable solution would I need to consider a different offset than these rims I've bought and what size spacer would you recommend, 2" or ? Any help is appreciated. I look forward to adding pictures as soon as I get these rims put on. Thanks again!

 

[BILT4ME]

There are a few threads on this topic discussing the brands and measurements to fit these hubs.

Some folks take the wheels to a local machine shop and pay to have the center bored out. if you bought the CORRECT offset and back-spaced rims, the seller should have been aware of the hub diameter based on application. You need to advise the seller of their error on application and maybe they will bore them accordingly and pay for shipping both directions.

Don't do spacers. Lots of debate here, but if you don't do a lot of your own work, it will not fare well.

 

[GADZLCRZR]

There are a few threads on this topic discussing the brands and measurements to fit these hubs.

Some folks take the wheels to a local machine shop and pay to have the center bored out. if you bought the CORRECT offset and back-spaced rims, the seller should have been aware of the hub diameter based on application. You need to advise the seller of their error on application and maybe they will bore them accordingly and pay for shipping both directions.

Don't do spacers. Lots of debate here, but if you don't do a lot of your own work, it will not fare well.

Thank you, I will try and find the other threads on this forum that mention places to buy rims that will fit. I do general maintenance and can install the spacers and torque them, but wasn't sure if the forum thought that spacers caused more problems than they are worth. I'm currently messaging the seller of the rims to see what they think. I don't think they will machine them so I will need to decide if I want to go that route or just return them and look for another set of rims. In your experience does a 106.1mm center bore clean okay?

 

[BILT4ME]

Thank you, I will try and find the other threads on this forum that mention places to buy rims that will fit. I do general maintenance and can install the spacers and torque them, but wasn't sure if the forum thought that spacers caused more problems than they are worth. I'm currently messaging the seller of the rims to see what they think. I don't think they will machine them so I will need to decide if I want to go that route or just return them and look for another set of rims. In your experience does a 106.1mm center bore clean okay?

I have not done this myself, so I will defer to the others on the forum.

There is a thread called "Show us the wheels on your 80" or something like that that discusses this.

There are separate threads about spacers. They can create another failure point and if you don't NEED them, don't use them. The LC has a different offset and backspacing than most available wheels, so it may force you to use spacers to get there, depending on what you are buying.

All this is part of why I prefer the stock wheels.

 

[GADZLCRZR]

I agree, I would rather not have spacers. I will take the wheels off, clean around the center hubs and see if the new rims will slide over. Everything I'm seeing says they should fit and not sure if the tech putting them on got lazy about it. I'll add that to the list for this weekend...

 

[BILT4ME]

I agree, I would rather not have spacers. I will take the wheels off, clean around the center hubs and see if the new rims will slide over. Everything I'm seeing says they should fit and not sure if the tech putting them on got lazy about it. I'll add that to the list for this weekend...

THis is the thread I was thinking of.

Maybe do a search for your brand. Someone has tried them.

Put pictures of the wheels you have in yours 80 series

Hello, Tomorrow i'm going to fit in my 80 wheels Mangels Modular Blacks in 15" x 8" ( ET - 24 ) and i get off my Hoffman Spacers. When they are in truck y put some pictures Miguel

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Rudster]

No better rims for an 80 series than the factory rims

 

[JoeCova]

I use the factory wheels (that I had to fix because apparently toyota switched from an acorn lug to a mag lug between 94 and 95) but in a pinch I put on a spare set from my Tacoma and they fit fine. Mine were SCS F5 wheels.

F5

The traditional 5-star wheel is reimagined with our F5 model. We based this model on a classic form, but pivoted it around the no-center-cap concept to emphasize the off-road-ready appeal. Being hubcentric and incredibly lightweight at just over 18 pounds, the F5 model sets new standards for...

www.stealthcustomseries.com

 

[robnicko]

not knowing where youre located id suggest looking at ROH wheels, https://roh.com.au/product-category/off-road-wheels/

they make alot of OEM alloys for Toyota in Australia

I run the 16x8 Impacts on my 80 series on road

and OEM steelies with 33's

looking at the image youve posted something like the ROH Hostile seems very similar

PS - stay away from spacers

 

[greentruck]

OEM steelies with 33's

Factory rim, but probably not the one everyone else but robnicko was thinking of. Old part # was 42601-60361, but has been superseded. Worth reading my thread on them if contermplating them, as I did have some travails with several of these developing micro-leaks. The new part # may indicate that problem has been solved. I finally got enough good ones (fingers crossed) but haven't needed any of the new # (yet - EDIT: Correction, my last rim purchase did come as the new # 42601-60362 and so far, so good).
See:

OEM Steel Wheel 42601-60361 Corrosion Issues: Anyone Have This?

Last year I posted about having a leak in one of my 42601-60361 wheels. These were purchased new not long after we bought the truck in order to install some decent tires given several of the alloy wheels were just about toast. I wrote up about finding this leak issue, some hasty (half-arse)...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[robnicko]

Factory rim, but probably not the one everyone else but robnicko was thinking of. Old part # was 42601-60361, but has been superseded. Worth reading my thread on them if contermplating them, as I did have some travails with several of these developing micro-leaks. The new part # may indicate that problem has been solved. I finally got enough good ones (fingers crossed) but haven't needed any of the new # (yet).
See:

OEM Steel Wheel 42601-60361 Corrosion Issues: Anyone Have This?

Last year I posted about having a leak in one of my 42601-60361 wheels. These were purchased new not long after we bought the truck in order to install some decent tires given several of the alloy wheels were just about toast. I wrote up about finding this leak issue, some hasty (half-arse)...

forum.ih8mud.com

Yep, they are the ones my 80 came with when I bought it
seems a steel version of the old skool MAG

funny you mention the micro leaks as one of mine (have 5) does have a leak about 30mm from the valve.
There is no visible crack or anything but a definite leak that can be heard and seen when soapy water sprayed on that area - i just use that particular rim as the spare for my 33's - it just needs to be monitored if used but if pumped to 40psi will be at 30psi around 24hrs later



the leak is the reason I bought the alloys about 15 years ago.

 

[greentruck]

Yep, they are the ones my 80 came with when I bought it
seems a steel version of the old skool MAG
SNIP

the leak is the reason I bought the alloys about 15 years ago.

Here, my original alloys had seen too much salt (probably not an issue in Australia except near the beach) and tended to leak, so went with the steelies to address that. Guess nothing is ever perfect in life. Despite the issues, I like my steelies.

 

[LandLocked93]

+1 no spacers.
Not so much that they don't work or are dangerous (which they are without maintenance).
But they are an additional maintenance check (that requires removal of the wheel itself to perform) where simply buying the right wheel configuration eliminates the need for them and the inherent maintenance thereof.

+1 for steel wheels that can be beat (roughly) back into shape to possibly hold air.
Alloys cannot be done the same way and if they are cracked, you are down one wheel automatically.

 

[GADZLCRZR]

No better rims for an 80 series than the factory rims

Thank you for all the help. The rims I bought were defective, the inside of the center bore on the rim is correct diameter at 106.1mm but as you slide it over it hits the front part of the rim preventing it from sliding on all the way.

 

[Shipwreck]

Thank you for all the help. The rims I bought were defective, the inside of the center bore on the rim is correct diameter at 106.1mm but as you slide it over it hits the front part of the rim preventing it from sliding on all the way.

Your rims are not defective.
They have a small lip on the outer edge of the bore. (Look at your picture where there are scratches from hitting the center hub.) This is common on many rims even though the over all center bore is correct at 106.1 mm. I think this lip is often used to help mount a center cap.
Many vendors or manufacturers don't specifically mention this aside from not listing the wheel as approved for the Land Cruiser. It is this lip that needs to be machined off that @BILT4ME mentioned above. If you do not want to machine that lip, then your only options are return the wheels or install spacers.

 

[GADZLCRZR]

Your rims are not defective.
They have a small lip on the outer edge of the bore. (Look at your picture where there are scratches from hitting the center hub.) This is common on many rims even though the over all center bore is correct at 106.1 mm. I think this lip is often used to help mount a center cap.
Many vendors or manufacturers don't specifically mention this aside from not listing the wheel as approved for the Land Cruiser. It is this lip that needs to be machined off that @BILT4ME mentioned above. If you do not want to machine that lip, then your only options are return the wheels or install spacers.

The word defective may have been the wrong choice of words but bottom line is if they build it to the correct spec it would slide over the center hub without the purchaser having to take it to a machine shop and grind it down. This website says "Guaranteed Fit" for 97 FJ80 so hopefully they will honor that. I appreciate the quick response and feedback.

 

[Broski]

Thank you for all the help. The rims I bought were defective, the inside of the center bore on the rim is correct diameter at 106.1mm but as you slide it over it hits the front part of the rim preventing it from sliding on all the way.

View attachment 3388325

View attachment 3388326

View attachment 3388327

This issue has come up before and other members have removed that lip with a router and a pattern bit.