OEM Steel Wheel 42601-60361 Corrosion Issues: Anyone Have This? (1 Viewer)

[greentruck]

Last year I posted about having a leak in one of my 42601-60361 wheels. These were purchased new not long after we bought the truck in order to install some decent tires given several of the alloy wheels were just about toast. I wrote up about finding this leak issue, some hasty (half-arse) quick fixes that sorta worked, then the weld that solved the problem (I thought.) It was rather generic wheel stuff and got moved to the Tire and Wheel Tech section. See:
Toyota Steel Wheel 42601-60361 Leaking - What to Do? A Corrosive Update!

This time, the discussion is more about a potential parts quality issue and since the 42601-60361 wheels are mainly used on the 80 series (6-lug, 16x8) I thought it made more sense to put this in front of the crowd most likely to provider good data about whether or not this is an issue - or just someone wanting to sell me a set of new wheels. Also, no one seemed to have any input after almost a week, so thought it made more sense to come here again first, because this is where those running them mostly reside. Here's what these look like in case they're unfamiliar.

Basically, even after nearly a decade of service, these wheels are in fine shape, with barely any surface rust visible on any of them. The place that was welded looked like this.

While I don't doubt that corrosion may be at the root of this, it appears to be internal rust - and that's where the weld went.

The last couple of weeks, I noticed my right front leaking very slowly, then found what appeared to be a small rusty nail embedded in the tread. We're taling a week or more to go from 45 lb to 35 lb, so nothing major. Then as I was getting ready to run it in for that, I noticed the left front was losing air also. Took it back to the same shop that welded it last year to have both fixed.

After looking it over, these fellows told me they believed both wheels were corroding "due to the design." I wasn't quite sure what they meant about that, but I had a suspicion. Back when white spokers were what many ran, there were issues with cheaper one getting rusty and failing at the spoke vs rim conjunction. The tech argued that the design of these wheels trapped water behind the rim, so I suppose he was referencing the old white spoke thing...except these are factory rims, somewhat different design, and showed no surface issues of note of any kind due to corrosion.

Now I'm willing to understand that Toyota ain't perfect and perhaps a bad couple of wheels - after nearly a decade, much of which was spent in our cozy garage in out of the weather - might eventually start leaking. I'm really not sure corrosion is the case on the right, given it's tire has a known issue that wasn't fixed, and the left I maybe believe it based on what happened before.

I'm leaning toward replacing the one that is a repeat offendor. I have my doubts about the right front being a leaking wheel so long as the nail is in the tread, so will take it somewhere to just get that fixed and see what happens.

The point of this is to see if anyone else has run into similar problems of leaking, rust or corrosion with these wheels? Maybe it's been happening and I just didn't notice? If this is news to everyone, then I suspect a scheme to hustle me into buying some new rims. If there is some basis for it, them maybe I need to reconsider their use in a fairly humid environment.

 

[ppc]

You didn't state what the pressure drop was for the left front or indicate any change in either rear wheel.
Can't draw any conclusions on the right front due to the puncture.

Did the fellows actually determine exactly where the leak was on left front or just offer an opinion?
The valve stem and valve core would be the first thing to eliminate before I thought about replacing a rim. Second would be to dismount the tire and look for any reason for the bead not sealing. Clean the bead on the wheel and tire and remount and see what happens.

Some things to take into account when doing more investigation:

1. We're in the time of year where temps are lowering and pressures will drop without a leak present
2. The accuracy of the pressure gauge used, measuring pressure at the same temperatures
3. Each time you take a pressure measurement it will drop pressure to a certain degree

If all other issues are eliminated then I would try to seal the wheels internally rather than replace them.

 

[greentruck]

You didn't state what the pressure drop was for the left front or indicate any change in either rear wheel.
Can't draw any conclusions on the right front due to the puncture.
SNIP

Hi Phil,
Both rears seem unaffected, so far.

The left front seems to have reverted to dropping as quickly as before the weld was done. In 5 days it went from 45 lb to 15 lb. The leak was audible previously, so once I'm able to get it off the truck I should be able to locate whether from the wheel or elsewhere

I agree, no way to draw a firm conclusion about the right front, except that such a slow leak (10 lb drop in 5 days) is more manageable and that nail could account for such a slow leak. I saw no sign of a leak in the wheel, but will check along with the left when I am able.

I've taken neither off for examination since, because I spent much of that time since I last checked things last Wed dealing with an angry gall bladder, which was evicted Thursday evening via emergency surgery. It'll be a couple of weeks before I'll be able to work on the 80 again when it comes to tires.

The bead should not be a factor, but will be cautious about checking for that when I get a chance. I'm aware of seasonal PSI changes, but the left front pressure drop far exceeds that I've typically encountered. My PSI gauge is accurate to the pound, so close enuf.

What do you expect to use to coat the tire/wheel interior? I looked into that, but wasn't sure what might give best results. Right now I'm not so much interested in fixing the wheels as determining whether or not corrosion is indeed the issue, which suggests I find another wheel solution, but the advice is appreciated.

 

[ppc]

My initial thoughts were that you were only dropping 1 or 2 PSI. With the rate of air loss of 6 psi per day you should be able to pinpoint the leak easily by putting the tire underwater.

 

[greentruck]

Yeah, the leak in the left front should be easy enough to locate. I suspect they never actually checked the right front enough to find a leak and there was no charge so they didn't bother finding the nail in the right front.

Based on the total lack of response here with any reports of others having an issue with these wheels, I'm gonna conclude they were just trying to sell me on the idea I need new wheels.

It would be helpful if others who are running these steel rims without any issues were to check in an say they were good, as positive data points are just as important as negative ones.

That said, this is the community who'd know if there actually was any corrosion issues with these wheels due to a design flaw. In the absence of further input, I'm going to conclude that my issues with these wheels are pretty much confined to what I have on hand here as a one-time QC issue confined to one wheel.

 

[greentruck]

Another data point, or 3, now that I'm recovered from my gall bladder being evicted. I soaped the known problem child, hoping it was just the valve steem. Turns out the biggest leak is next to it, but definitely not the valve steam, so no easy fix.

Then there were two more smaller leaks, all again on the weld that holds the wheel disc to the rim.

Not pulling the wheels off today, but there may be more of the same thing on the inner side. This is bad enough, because it look just a year to go from one leak to 3 more.

AFAIK, the other identical rims we have show no sign of this. This one just seems not have been properly prepped before painting and has now started showing the issue. I can see why they would be reluctant to weld up so many issues. It'll be a losing battle, at least on this one wheel.

 

[greentruck]

Some updates and perhaps some clues to what's going on with the flaky wheel.

First, inside the wheel with a pic of the weld that was done last year and lasted about a year.

Pics of the bubbles at the weld are above in a previous post. What's interesting is that I can see no obvious holes that could be the source of the leak, although I haven't gone over it with a microscope. The leaks were widely distributed around the rim.

Now here's the best pic of the area on the gailed rim that was a big leaker, next to the valve stem.

Looks somewhat crunchy in that weld to the right of the valve stem and I suspect a somewhat incomplete weld. This was covered by the finishing and was OK until the issue arose, nearly a decade of service.

Here's another from this group of rims, all purchased from a reputable MUD vendor. I wouldn't call it a "batch" of wheels, as IIRC he had three in stock and need to pull the others from around the country. This wheel has had the same life cycle of environmental exposures as it's sister rim, but look at that same weld.

Even to the naked eye, that looks much bette. And this seems to be the case with the other 3 original rims.

Here's a pic of the new rim.

So this, along with a lack of similar issues on the other 3 rims, seems to back up my conclusion this is a bad wheel, not a bad wheel design. I thought it important to note the issue here, just in case you've got these rims on your truck. There could be others, although the general lack of response to this thread suggest it's very much not the rule, but the exception with these fine wheels. Now we've giot some evidence to share and this should help tell what if anything needs done about any of your heavy metal.

 

[Rifleman]

When we ran into problem welds that had porosities we used Loctite 290 to seal them. Below is the product info for Loctite 290.


"LOCTITE® 290 is a liquid medium to high-strength threadlocker designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Because of its low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need for disassembly prior to application. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage due to shock and vibration. The product can also fill porosities in welds, castings and powdered metal parts."

 

[greentruck]

When we ran into problem welds that had porosities we used Loctite 290 to seal them. Below is the product info for Loctite 290.
SNIP

That's certainly worth a try. Thanks for the tip. CA just didn't have any tooth. Do you paint the 290 on after a thorough cleaning or is there more to it than that?

 

[Rifleman]

It's so thin it flows like water, and wicks it's way into VERY small holes and cracks. I'd buy the 50ML bottle, it'll cost you around 35 bucks.

That bottle comes with a long slim tip, just start at one spot on the rim where you know you have a leak, then work you're way around the rim while applying the loctite.

You'll have more then enough in that bottle to make more then one pass if needed.

You can apply this while the tire is on the rim but you need to remove the air inside the tire before you start.

Allow it to dry for 24 hours, fill the tire with air, then use soapy water to check to see if you still have any leaks.

IIRR this stuff will fill, and seal up to a 15 thousands gap, that's just about a 64TH of an inch, plus it's got a max operating temp of 300F. So it should handle heat from the brakes and tires with no problem.

 

[Kernal]

Would you apply this from any particular side of the wheel, or both sides?

 

[bwesty]

I would think the best solution would be to remove the tire from the wheel.

 

[greentruck]

It's so thin it flows like water, and wicks it's way into VERY small holes and cracks. I'd buy the 50ML bottle, it'll cost you around 35 bucks.
SNIP

Sounds good. The tire is already off the wheel. The inside of the wheel has little or no discernible areas where there might be a leak to seal, but I haven't gone over it with a magnifier yet.

 

[greentruck]

I would think the best solution would be to remove the tire from the wheel.

So long as there's no pressure, leaving the tire mounted should work given the capillary action of the 290. Laying the mounted tire flat would seem to help that.

 

[greentruck]

Lost another ones of these rims to the weld porosity issues. I believe it's one of the ones I replaced in 2019, so that really sucks, considering the other at least gave about a decade's of good service before things went south. It also seemed to be the most dramatic leak yet, starting suddenly and leaking down quickly.

So off to buy another. Turns out the old part number, 42601-60361, has been superseded by 42601-60362. Hoping this update solves this irritating issue. Turns out the tag seems to indicate a 7 year old production date.

If that's that the case, it's a little disappointing, as this wheel was sitting in a warehouse while Toyota was still selling me the original, problematic part#. Kind of irritating that Mr. T can't get a simple steel wheel right for so long, so hoping the new part# solves things.

 

[OGBeno]

Lost another ones of these rims to the weld porosity issues. I believe it's one of the ones I replaced in 2019, so that really sucks, considering the other at least gave about a decade's of good service before things went south. It also seemed to be the most dramatic leak yet, starting suddenly and leaking down quickly.

So off to buy another. Turns out the old part number, 42601-60361, has been superseded by 42601-60362. Hoping this update solves this irritating issue. Turns out the tag seems to indicate a 7 year old production date.

If that's that the case, it's a little disappointing, as this wheel was sitting in a warehouse while Toyota was still selling me the original, problematic part#. Kind of irritating that Mr. T can't get a simple steel wheel right for so long, so hoping the new part# solves things.

It was manufactured on 12/15/2021. Less than a year old. Toyota does not keep things around for 7 years.

 

[greentruck]

It was manufactured on 12/15/2021. Less than a year old. Toyota does not keep things around for 7 years.

Thanks, Beno, that's really good news. The updated part number is more reassuring, then. Hoping this one stays all non-leaky, forever.

 

[FJ73Texas]

That construction style of wheel is prone to leaking, even new ones. Just how it is. The build date and paint date should be on the wheel also.

 

[cruiserdan]

I must be lucky. My set of 5 is fine after well over 20 years and at least 2 part number revisions.

 

[FJ73Texas]

I must be lucky. My set of 5 is fine after well over 20 years and at least 2 part number revisions.

You are. I can’t really comment much more on a public forum but I am just not surprised that some do leak.