Reviving a rusty, dented hood.

[waiting for time]

This one is a bit bend and rusted.

 

[waiting for time]

First I took everything off and then drilled out the spot welds.

Fitted the inside and frame on the car.

This one needs some work too but that is for a later time.
I found a blasting cabinet, won't be here for a few weeks so this has to wait.

The frame is bend a lot, looking at my '78 for the right angle.

 

[waiting for time]

The bib does not look that difficult to repair.

Only the bottom is gone but there is just enough left to function as a template.

 

[waiting for time]

First step was to cut a new lower part and bend the bottum side.

Drilled the internal reinforcement out.

Tip to tip needs to be 83 cm

 

[waiting for time]

As it is difficult to get the correct with when you shrink the curves I decided to make the reinforcement in three parts.

Cut out the bottom of the bib.

 

[mrboatman]

Seeing what you have done with the hood these parts should be a cake walk for your skills!! This ia assume seeing how you repair and fabracate this stuff!! Great job !!!

JP

 

[waiting for time]

Bottom cut out.

Patch in for fitting.

Patch clamped in position and the holes marked. First reinforcement part in position.

 

[waiting for time]

The bib just fits in the blasting cabinet.

 

[Splangy]

Aprons are usually no more than $20ea. I can't imagine your time is worth less than that.

 

[waiting for time]

Aprons are usually no more than $20ea. I can't imagine your time is worth less than that.

That works if you are in the US. There are not a lot of manufacturors of 40 steel in Europe. The cost of shipping something from the US make everything expensive.
Plus I like to see how much I can recreate, this one is not so much about getting it on the road but more about the road to get there.

 

[waiting for time]

Fuse blew on the compressor and its in an other space that was not accessable.
So I started to fool arround with my fender. It had a lot of bad dents and folds from the crash.
I decided to run it through the English wheel. It took about 10 minutes to get the big wrinkles out.

The old patch in the side has some ugly welds and needs to come out so I didn't wheel that part.

 

[Ironguy]

Wow! Great job and you were patient enough to take pics as you went along. Best of luck with the rest of the project.

 

[waiting for time]

time To get the old hood back from the attick.
first square It out.

Then continue With the right corner.

 

[waiting for time]

after cutting.

some fitting, masaging and grinding.

welding and continuing around the corner.

theologie steel does not like to be welded much.

 

[waiting for time]

patch fit to size.

a little cutting and filing for the good fit.

 

[waiting for time]

cutting, welding, hammering and grinding.

 

[waiting for time]

more welding and grinding.

put the frame back on to check If it is still strait.

 

[RAYJON]

Nice work, keep going..

just a thought a cheep dc tig will save you some time and money, or some .023 wire for a mig over brazing...
when you get to the finishing part a map gas torch with a pencil tip works well for shrinking, one of the best tools i have for body work is a dhrinking disc...

 

[NHFJ]

I realize most would walk away from these remains.
For it is therapy on one side and finding out if I can do this on the other.

omg I want to be you when I grow up!!!!!!

 

[waiting for time]

Nice work, keep going..

just a thought a cheep dc tig will save you some time and money, or some .023 wire for a mig over brazing...
when you get to the finishing part a map gas torch with a pencil tip works well for shrinking, one of the best tools i have for body work is a dhrinking disc...

I am using an AC/DC tig for welding and brazing and have a small gas torch for shrinking, works well thank you.
The interesting thing about brazing is that you can use the abrasive pads on the 2” grinder to smooth them out with the steel as they don’t take off much steel but will take off the copper silicium.