- Thread starter
- #241
Youre right - secondary, thanks for correcting my mistake.
It did come in the kit, which I got from OReillys I think?
Builds Resurrecting a mothballed '86 FJ60
- Thread starter Seth_O
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Youre right - secondary, thanks for correcting my mistake.
It did come in the kit, which I got from OReillys I think?
- Thread starter
- #242
X2, I was digging those arrows!
Is your timing still set to 0*? Is there a reason you haven’t set it to the BB, which is 7*. I doubt this is your problem bcs it purrs at higher rpms but I had to ask. Your vacuum should be higher, but so should mine. Sounds like you should check your vcv, they seem to break down and need replacing. Lucky for us we can still get the 80’version new for around $59. There’s the one you mentioned for the dizzy vent and the one on the drivers side. They can be a vacuum leak. Also, have you checked under your carb for the intake crack? I couldn’t see mine for ge longest time, but it was seeing me every time I looked.
As for your carb issue, the idle circuit doesn’t seem to be working - to state the obvious. I’ve put the prinary idle jet into the secondary before. It will run, just not well. I’ve also had a rebuild kit that didn’t have all the holes punched out, so my secondary was blocked. I think those might be extreme examples though. How’s the float setting? Is the gas in the middle of the window? You mentioned bending the tab, make sure your secondary plate is completely shut when idling. You might be able to shine a light down the throat and make sure it’s closed.
I’m not the expert on the issues you are seeing. There are a ton of really good posts out there addressing everything you could possibly encounter. I’m not trying to be an ass, I just know that there are people that have a ton more experience that might chime in if you post up a carb question specifically (outside this thread).
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I read more of your thread and saw you’ve kinda had the same problem before you rebuilt it, right? Before anything else, set the timing to somewhere between 7-10* . Two things I’ve started to wonder about regarding your idle issue: First, there are some people who have needed their idle mix out almost 5 turns (probably due to a smałl vacuum leak) - take your choke cable completely out of the system to make sure it isn’t binding or changing anything. You should be able to adjust the idle speed screw to the same speed as you get when the choke is on. Then see if you can, adjust the idle down using the idle speed screw. Forget about the choke high idle for now. Get that out of he picture.
Also, you should start looking at your linkages and make sure they aren’t on wrong, they can be rotated 180, but usually that manifests as continuous high idle.
But I’d start by disconnecting your choke cable completely. Then adjust your idle until it runs. If it won’t start, you can enrichen it by using a tool to close the choke flap initially - idk other people have done this - when I was a kid a guy would just stick a screwdriver in it to hold it down on a lawnmower- I haven’t needed to do it myself - anyway turn the idle screw to that sweet spot (1000-1200 for you), after opening the idle mixture screw to 5 turns out. Then see if you can adjust for lower idle. Edit: if you can lower the idle to 650-750 then perform the lean drop and tell us where your idle mix screw setting falls. The lean drop can’t be performed with your situation of dying when choke is off, and a high idle.
If you can’t, let us know and we can go from there.
Also, you should start looking at your linkages and make sure they aren’t on wrong, they can be rotated 180, but usually that manifests as continuous high idle.
But I’d start by disconnecting your choke cable completely. Then adjust your idle until it runs. If it won’t start, you can enrichen it by using a tool to close the choke flap initially - idk other people have done this - when I was a kid a guy would just stick a screwdriver in it to hold it down on a lawnmower- I haven’t needed to do it myself - anyway turn the idle screw to that sweet spot (1000-1200 for you), after opening the idle mixture screw to 5 turns out. Then see if you can adjust for lower idle. Edit: if you can lower the idle to 650-750 then perform the lean drop and tell us where your idle mix screw setting falls. The lean drop can’t be performed with your situation of dying when choke is off, and a high idle.
If you can’t, let us know and we can go from there.
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One more thing, I’d be suspicious of your old vacuum lines. Especially the ones on the carb between the valve cover and carb, near the idle mix screw. They notoriously leak. People here have used McMaster car 3mm silicon tubing or boost controller line to replace, or you can go direct with oem
- Thread starter
- #246
This is a different issue than I had before: previously no matter what I did the engine idled high, ~1000 RPM's was as low as it would go, but it would idle well. Now if I back off the idle the RPM's drop off a cliff below about 1200 RPM's and it dies.
Have you checked to ensure you have power to the ICS? Sure sounds like the idle circuit is blocked. Did you verify all the holes in the top gasket of the carb lined up? You could probably pull the mix screw all the way out and blow some low pressure air in to see if you get some bubbles in the bowl. With the key on so the ICS is open.
- Thread starter
- #248
Its a good thought on the +12v. I bench tested the solenoid itself, so I know it's good, but never checked to ensure the circuit is getting power in the vehicle.
I was very careful to check my gaskets. That doesn't mean though that I couldn't have missed something or made a mistake.
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- #249
I am starting to think I have another vacuum leak somewhere, and getting frustrated. I dont have the patience that @NeverGiveUpYota has. Heres what I've done so far:
1) checked ICS power, +11.8v
2) set timing to 7* (so with the timing light set to 7* advance, the pointer is right on the BB - I think that's 7* advance)
3) no choke
I get a ROUGH idle of about 1000 RPM's (so an improvement) but anything below that and it stalls and dies. No change to the idle when I move the mixture screw unless I get it almost all the way down and then it dies.
I've just done the manifolds with a remflex gasket, and I've done a heat riser block-off plate (no sign of any cracking, regardless.)
Previous to the carb rebuild it physically wouldn't idle below 1000 RPM's no matter what I did. Feels like I fixed that problem, but have uncovered another. Sigh.
Heres the vacuum test, set at 7* and around 1000 RPM's.
1) checked ICS power, +11.8v
2) set timing to 7* (so with the timing light set to 7* advance, the pointer is right on the BB - I think that's 7* advance)
3) no choke
I get a ROUGH idle of about 1000 RPM's (so an improvement) but anything below that and it stalls and dies. No change to the idle when I move the mixture screw unless I get it almost all the way down and then it dies.
I've just done the manifolds with a remflex gasket, and I've done a heat riser block-off plate (no sign of any cracking, regardless.)
Previous to the carb rebuild it physically wouldn't idle below 1000 RPM's no matter what I did. Feels like I fixed that problem, but have uncovered another. Sigh.
Heres the vacuum test, set at 7* and around 1000 RPM's.
- Thread starter
- #250
All of my vacuum tubing visually looks ok, but it's an unknown age, so I ordered 40' of 3mm + 10' 5mm silicone vacuum tubing.
For $30 it's worth the piece of mind and the ability to remove it as a possible problem.
For $30 it's worth the piece of mind and the ability to remove it as a possible problem.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
You can hear the vac leak in the audio very well. Look at each port on manifold and make sure it's capped or run to the correct source.
Curious where that vacuum gauge is hooked up. Is that with air cleaner on and everything hooked up? Looked like in earlier pics you plugged the port that the brake booster and ac idle up were located? Earlier you were getting ~18” of vacuum. Changes since then?
^^^^^
What they said
And to answer / comment on your numerical post:
1) you have to check that it audibly clicks when 12v is applied to it. So unplug the green connector that goes to it and while the key is on connect it back together. You should hear it click. If it doesn’t, you can do the green wire mod, which is just grounding the white wire on the ics side of the connector. If this circuit isn’t working you won’t idle at 700rpm. For some reason I thought you had tested this and confirmed a good oring but I might be confusing your thread with another one. Did you bench test it when you had it apart? Maybe that was someone else...
2) when the pointer is on the BB you are at 7* btdc, if you aren’t using the advance feature on the timing light. Or it’s set at zero if you are. Some people set it so the BB is at the bottom of the viewing window and that is around 10*, it might idle a little better there
3) no choke and running is better than before where you weren’t running so that is a step in the right direction.
4) you will find your vacuum leak when you start replacing those hoses guaranteed.
What they said
And to answer / comment on your numerical post:
1) you have to check that it audibly clicks when 12v is applied to it. So unplug the green connector that goes to it and while the key is on connect it back together. You should hear it click. If it doesn’t, you can do the green wire mod, which is just grounding the white wire on the ics side of the connector. If this circuit isn’t working you won’t idle at 700rpm. For some reason I thought you had tested this and confirmed a good oring but I might be confusing your thread with another one. Did you bench test it when you had it apart? Maybe that was someone else...
2) when the pointer is on the BB you are at 7* btdc, if you aren’t using the advance feature on the timing light. Or it’s set at zero if you are. Some people set it so the BB is at the bottom of the viewing window and that is around 10*, it might idle a little better there
3) no choke and running is better than before where you weren’t running so that is a step in the right direction.
4) you will find your vacuum leak when you start replacing those hoses guaranteed.
- Thread starter
- #254
Yep, the ICS bench-tested good and I put a new o-ring on it from the kit.
Maybe I am using the timing gun incorrectly? When I turn the dial on the back of the gun to 7* the BB is aligned to the pointer.
I sure hope so. The hoses don't look too bad but I get junk on my hands when I touch them, and I have no idea how old they actually are.
- Thread starter
- #255
I ran the test with the air cleaner off, I think what you are hearing is the vacuum pulled from the top of the carb. That being said I will run the test again with the air cleaner hooked up and see what it looks like.
Set your timing light advance knob to zero and align the pointer to the BB- then you’ll be at 7* BTDC.
Edit: I wanted to add that if you use the advance dial set to 7* then the pointer should be aligned to the TDC line, not the BB.
Here’s what I do to convince myself of the right way to use it: after setting the dial to zero and aligning the pointer to the BB, you are at 7 deg. No goofs, nothing to worry about, it’s correct. But for fun and to learn how to use the dial I turn the dial to 7* and now the pointer is on the TDC line. Then I know if I want 10 deg, all I have to do is set the dial to 10 and get the pointer on the TDC line. This is all done with the HAC and advance vacuum lines pulled and plugged with a golf tee. Neither should have vacuum at your altitude but it’s good practice. After you’ve timed it to 7 deg, you can put the HAC line on and see if it is changing your timing. And if you live at altitude like I do, I can adjust my dial to 13deg to check that my pointer is at the TDC line, confiming my HAC is working. Yours shouldn’t change the timing or there’s a problem there. Hope I’m not being confusing or giving misinformation as I’m typing this part from memory.
Edit: I wanted to add that if you use the advance dial set to 7* then the pointer should be aligned to the TDC line, not the BB.
Here’s what I do to convince myself of the right way to use it: after setting the dial to zero and aligning the pointer to the BB, you are at 7 deg. No goofs, nothing to worry about, it’s correct. But for fun and to learn how to use the dial I turn the dial to 7* and now the pointer is on the TDC line. Then I know if I want 10 deg, all I have to do is set the dial to 10 and get the pointer on the TDC line. This is all done with the HAC and advance vacuum lines pulled and plugged with a golf tee. Neither should have vacuum at your altitude but it’s good practice. After you’ve timed it to 7 deg, you can put the HAC line on and see if it is changing your timing. And if you live at altitude like I do, I can adjust my dial to 13deg to check that my pointer is at the TDC line, confiming my HAC is working. Yours shouldn’t change the timing or there’s a problem there. Hope I’m not being confusing or giving misinformation as I’m typing this part from memory.
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- Thread starter
- #257
Vacuum gauge is hooked up to the brake booster port, same place I was using before rebuilding the carb when I was getting 18". That last 2" + the idle problem is what pushed me to rebuild in the first place. Currently the air cleaner is off and the PCV line is plugged.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Air cleaner off won't affect vacuum as its above the butterfly at idle, though it is key to have on for setting mixture. Air cleaner off definitely makes sense why it sounds like a big leak. Whoever said set timing with advance on timing gun set to 0 is correct, that is an easy one to screw up.
Should post pics around the motor so we can see what we're looking at.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Get as absolutely low idle as you can and carb spray the manifold mating surface to head. Haven’t read all the responses but that should be on the #1 to do list.
Will read thru after I update my trucks findings....
Will read thru after I update my trucks findings....
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Photos from a bit back showing the vac lines plugged where on the driver side. Attempt a photo of the lines to the 4 ports on rear of carb near valve cover. Something is definitely amiss w/ that vac gauge. I get that frustration your feeling. It’s so freaking disappointing. Two steps forward feels like 20 back.
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