Builds Resurrecting a mothballed '86 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[Seth_O]

So I finally got my silicon vacuum hose in the mail this week, and spent time ripping out old hose.

 

[Seth_O]

All new silicone hose:

 

[Seth_O]

Alas, this did not fix my issue:

 

[Seth_O]

I have found though that I have a distinct leak at my PCV valve and another at the base of my carb.

I did not install any kind of gasket at the base of my carb, where it attaches to the manifold - should I have?

 

[Infinity00]

It could be the angle but I see a couple hoses routed wrong. I don’t know if correcting them will fix your problem but they should be fixed.
Edit: it’s just the angle

I had a leak until I added the gasket at the bottom of my carb. It helps a lot, at least in my case.

What changed from when it was 17 in the beginning of the video, just before it dropped to 14?

 

[Infinity00]

This vcv and the other one on the driver’s side go bad and can be vacuum leaks. Test it per he FSM. If it’s bad it will only account for a small leak but everything adds up.

See the valve circled in yellow.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have found though that I have a distinct leak at my PCV valve and another at the base of my carb.

I did not install any kind of gasket at the base of my carb, where it attaches to the manifold - should I have?

Thru CO (@cruiseroutfit) they sell both the upper gasket (green, which is a thicker plenum) that goes against the bottom of the carb to the black insulator and the pink (more paper like) that goes under the insulator but I bought at an Ace hardware a roll of gray paper gasket maker, thin, and simply cut my own (made 2) for under the insulator. If you do make sure there are no edges sticking out looking down through the insulator that could allow fuel to roll over and creep between the surfaces.

 

[Seth_O]

What changed from when it was 17 in the beginning of the video, just before it dropped to 14?

I didnt make any changes during the video, just stood there and recorded and held the vacuum gauge.

I have also adjusted my timing down to 7* advanced (dial on the gun reads 7* when the pointer is on the line.)

When I turned the advance down the truck died. Next step is a gasket for the base of the carb and to address the leak at the base of the PCV.

I'll also test those VCV's if I can find the instructions in the FSM.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

PCV

Pull the valve out and blast it w/ brake clean till an up and down shake let’s it slide freely. Could be your grommet is hard as heck too. Not a fun task to replace because it tends to break apart and fall down into that J in the side cover.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

VCV's

Very easy if you have a MityVac. Maybe $20-30 on Amazon.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I’m still very curious what happens when you give the manifold to head mating surfaces a little spritz of carb spray? Just let it idle as best it can an try that. If your RPMs rise and steady out then you know where you need to head next.

 

[Seth_O]

I bought at an Ace hardware a roll of gray paper gasket maker, thin, and simply cut my own (made 2) for under the insulator.

I have a roll of this in my cabinet, exactly what I was thinking of using.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

This vcv and the other one on the driver’s side go bad and can be vacuum leaks. Test it per he FSM. If it’s bad it will only account for a small leak but everything adds up.

See the valve circled in yellow.
View attachment 1744265

That’s only free now because his air cleaner isn’t hooked up.

 

[Infinity00]

As mweb pointed out previously, your vacuum was steady at 18 back on page 10 or so. Something made it worse between then and now. One thing you mentioned tightening the manifold to 25foot lbs. The manifold to head should be 29-36 ft-lb and when you replaced those gaskets between the exhaust and intake, how tight did you go with those? There’s no spec and it’s easy to destroy the threads (aluminum) but I think I did those to 25.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Also, do you have to be smogged cuz all that hose is insane. I’m out after really zooming in. Holy cluster fawk!

 

[Infinity00]

My truck runs so much better, faster, more power, quicker, and best of all I don’t have to look at the spaghetti nonsense anymore. If you can get rid of it, you’ll be very happy.

 

[John McVicker]

That sketchy vacuum reading in your video could be a burnt and/or sticky valve.

 

[Infinity00]

That sketchy vacuum reading in your video could be a burnt and/or sticky valve.

That’s what I thought at first but if you look at his other vacuum reading, it was solid at 18 in

 

[John McVicker]

That’s what I thought at first but if you look at his other vacuum reading, it was solid at 18 in

Ah, did not see that video, just saw the video in post 263 and one on another page that was 'somewhat' steady @ 13.

 

[Seth_O]

I’m still very curious what happens when you give the manifold to head mating surfaces a little spritz of carb spray? Just let it idle as best it can an try that. If your RPMs rise and steady out then you know where you need to head next.

Nada when I shoot the manifold-to-head area. Maybe a slight rise, but I attribute that to the proximity to my carb base, where I KNOW I have a leak. I am basing my conclusion on the fact that I have to douse it pretty good, and then there is a delay before the RPM increase. When I spray directly at the carb base there is an immediate sharp jump in engine speed.