Builds Resurrecting a mothballed '86 FJ60

[Seth_O]

I’m not feeling super confident to direct you but I’ll try.... fan clutch working? Engine “ought” to roar when you start herbup w/ full choke. Mine actually has been not so roar like too. Try the Newspaper trick on the fan blades.
Carb spray primarily at the manifold to block and where carb meets manifold.
Can’t get it below because it stalls out?

Def fan roar on startup, VERY noticeable. Carb spray ALL OVER. Both sides of the block (checking PCV area), manifold-to-head seal, base of the carb, all the little vacuum lines.

The only thing I found was that when I sprayed near the VSV attached to the dizzy it made a weird sucking and popping sound. I was worried though that could have been micro detonations from inside the dizzy.

 

[Seth_O]

I'm thinking next step might be to blow air through the intake to see if I can find air blowing out somewhere, that should allow me to check as far as the valves I think?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Pretty sure you need to stay the hell away from the passenger side w/ carb spray.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

If you have a mityvac you can check those VCVs. It’s a pretty cheap tool on Amazon.
I believe, you can blow air or as someone else told me, blow smoke (thinking a cigar) or an actual smoke machine into the hose on the finned port that the brake booster goes to.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Shop vac to tail pipe, spray bottle soapy water. Truck not running. Brilliant.

EGR Tube vs. Manifold Leak

 

[Seth_O]

Shop vac to tail pipe, spray bottle soapy water. Truck not running. Brilliant.

EGR Tube vs. Manifold Leak

I've done that for the exhaust side and it was a huge success. I think for the vacuum side I would need to go in from the intake because of the valves?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah sounds like you’ve got the right idea regarding which path. Smoke blown into the carb?

 

[mattcamp]

Anyone have a source for the small plastic 'anchors' for the side vents? Ours are either missing, or crumble when touched. No luck at the dealer.

I got mine

I checked Cruiser Corp and City Racer to no avail.

If you find them. post up where...I need the square expanding anchors
for the interior door grab handle.

I got mine at napa, I took one in and they busted out a sample fastener book that had the actual pieces attached to the pages and we matched up the right one and I got a bag of 12 or so for about 5 bucks.

 

[Seth_O]

Picked up some cheap-o "get me by" tires and wheels and threw them on.

Before:

After:

 

[Seth_O]

Havent posted in a while, and my progress has been stymied a little bit while I chase issues on my 80 and do a bunch of renovations and work on the house.

But I did finally finish up the carb rebuild. It was pretty messy inside.

Heres the before shot:

I built my own ultrasonic cleaner for this job, it worked pretty awesome, I was really pleased with the results. I did find though that what you use as solution makes a pretty big difference. I was able to put mine together for about half the cost of buying one. It's small as it's a PoC, but it works great.

 

[Seth_O]

Good image of the results, half the bracket was in the solution, this is after maybe 10-15 mins?

 

[Seth_O]

I have one area that makes me nervous, after adjusting everything to spec per the FSM, when my secondary cutoff/butterfly is fully open, the actuator arm rubs against one of the return springs. I had to adjust the stop (bend it as stated in the FSM) pretty drastically to get the 90* butterfly as cited in the FSM. Is that right? Doesn't seem like anything should rub?

Top left corner of the pic you can see the interference.

 

[Seth_O]

Found my accelerator pump was completely shot:

Luckily all the rest of my diaphragms + fuel cutoff solenoid all tested good.

 

[Seth_O]

Before/after pics of the bowl, because everyone loves clean parts

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have one area that makes me nervous, after adjusting everything to spec per the FSM, when my secondary cutoff/butterfly is fully open, the actuator arm rubs against one of the return springs. I had to adjust the stop (bend it as stated in the FSM) pretty drastically to get the 90* butterfly as cited in the FSM. Is that right? Doesn't seem like anything should rub?

View attachment 1739044

Top left corner of the pic you can see the interference.

Don’t quote me but check the SOR website as they have great photos from all sides of various carbs.
I believe.... Yellow goes over yellow and red presses against red.

 

[Infinity00]

That lever gets out of position, and you just have to twist the plate and get the lever in the right position. I’ll reach over to my kitchen table and get a shot of the carb over there. And that bad diaphragm is your secondary not your accelerator pump. What rebuild kit did you use? Did you buy a spare diaphragm, they don’t usually come in the kits for the 60

 

[Infinity00]

Should look like this

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Should look like this
View attachment 1739204

Much better than my wicked poor excuse of colored arrows!!!

 

[Seth_O]

Should look like this
View attachment 1739204

Thanks for posting that pic. I went out and took a look at it on the truck, and apparently after hooking up all the linkages it pulled it into the correct position. That was a relief.

With the choke on and the high idle adjusted correctly it purrs right along.

However, as soon as I release the choke the RPM's drop (as they should) and the truck dies.

I've adjusted the mix screw to be 3.5 turns out, and if I adjust the idle screw up to ~1200+ RPM's it runs fine, but as I dial back the idle screw it dies.

Did I mess something up internally?

 

[Infinity00]

Much better than my wicked poor excuse of colored arrows!!!

Well I had it right there! Actually, I was impressed with your mad markup skills. And even from memory