Builds Resurrecting a mothballed '86 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[chichiflys]

That was my first thought, but with the slot on the end of the dizzy can you be off by just one tooth? I thought you'd have to be off by 180*?

Oh and speaking of the slot at the end of the dizzy, I assume you mean the slot that the dizzy "sticks into" - that's the oil pump, and apparently it is possible to get your dizzy gear on the cam gear correctly and still not engage the oil pump slot properly. So once you get the truck running before you worry about timing, make sure you have good oil pressure...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

True but the diz won’t really seat fully if it’s not in the oil pump slot unless the oil pump slot was turned the wrong way, right? I was talking about the bolt that holds the housing.

 

[Seth_O]

I pulled the dizzy and reinstalled following the FSM (I did that originally, tbh.) Got the exact same result.

So I pulled it again, and this time I moved the arm to be pointing slightly left (towards the rear of the vehicle) of the #3 plug and reinstalled it. This moved it one tooth I believe, when I fired it back up it seemed to run well, but no time to throw the vacuum gauge on it as we had a family activity tonight. I'll try that on Monday- thank you daylight savings!

 

[Seth_O]

With the adjustment made here is where I landed.



That's 4* advanced, the IM screw adjusted out until the engine RPM's stopped increasing and the idle screw backed all the way off.

It idles around 1000 RPM's. The only way to get it down is to back off the timing, which drops the vacuum.

Open to ideas.

 

[chichiflys]

Gut says vacuum leak somewhere even though you show 18" which isn't bad...but you're at 1000RPM so that's a bit strange or your carb is off tune.
Long shot, but easy to check, disconnect the tachometer lead from the igniter. I remember reading somewhere here that the tach can cause some wonkiness...again long shot, but an easy 1 minute check to eliminate another possible source of ass pain.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have my tach disconnected because my gauge is insanely wonky. I tried another members Ignotir and coil assy and it made no difference so I’m waiting on another friend who has a tach for me.
I have noticed that my left blinker blocks double time when it’s hooked up but normal when it’s not. So clearly I’ve got some wiring issues.
But I know for a fact my gasket is leaking so I have my idle up to 1k to compensate.
It’s all a game and complete chemistry lesson on air and fuel. Get it tight and your problems ‘should’ go away but getting it done perfect is 98% of the work.

 

[Seth_O]

But I know for a fact my gasket is leaking so I have my idle up to 1k to compensate.

Are you referring to your intake manifold gasket? I thought I read in your thread that you had removed and machined your manifolds in one piece. Are they still leaking?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yup still leaking. Once both the exhaust and intake are separated by the three long vertical bolts it’s a chore to get them correct back onto the truck.
I had them machined together but I took them home and pulled them apart to put new gaskets inbetween and that’s when it all went to s***. And as it was they did a poor job machining. The intake ports had cupping which I didn’t realize I should have checked once back from the shop, so it was evident that how they did it caused a simmy in the machining. A friend took it to his work and planed it flat on a true stone and we thought it was good. Added some copper to the intake gasket ports and put both manis back on w/ the middle three bolts loose so it could be best pushed flush together against the block but we only used one gasket and I’m kicking myself cuz it’s still sucking at the intake first two ports from the fan side.
If you read some old threads I added to my build thread, a number will say to never take the two apart, ever. Because of this exact issue.
For now until it gets warmer, I’m ignoring it.

 

[Seth_O]

My thought was to remove them, separate them and do new seals and paint/cerakote and then reassemble for machining then use one of the remflex gaskets to reinstall. If I go through all of this I do NOT want to end up with a leak.

 

[Ian Crawford]

I was lucky, I removed mine from the engine and separated them for a desmog, cleaned the mating surfaces up with a wire wheel brush and reinstalled them separately with all new gaskets and insulator, getting the 3 bolts mentioned was a HUGE pain but I got it together with no leaks. I consider myself very lucky!

To go back and do it again, I would clean the cylinder head with a cup brush and take the entire assembly to a machine shop for planing and reinstall as one unit.

 

[mwebfj60]

My thought was to remove them, separate them and do new seals and paint/cerakote and then reassemble for machining then use one of the remflex gaskets to reinstall. If I go through all of this I do NOT want to end up with a leak.

Sounds like a good plan. I wouldn’t use the Remflex between the manifolds, the thickness really throws things off. OEM ones are pretty low cost. Odds are the insulator 17169 in pic will fall apart and need to be replaced as well (kind of pricey). I did use a Remflex between the manifolds and head and it sealed up nicely...never had mine planed as I didn’t trust anyone to get it done right.
When I put the two back together, I used clamps (not too tight) to make sure the mating surfaces were lined up and tightened the 3 bolts. Then installed to head. The problem putting them back together with the 3 bolts kind of loose is if you tighten to the head first, when you tighten the 3, the flanges can’t move vertically independently to pull the intake and exhaust manifolds together. If you are using a Remflex for the head, you can’t really tighten to the head a little then tighten the 3 a little, back and forth till they’re all tight. The Remflex has a very soft layer so you just want to be able to put it in and torque it down a tiny bit at a time until to torque value listed on package. I probably went around the sequence 15 times or so.

 

[Seth_O]

Pulled the carb off today, working my way towards removing the manifolds.

Found this:

The nut on the left stud is not quite finger tight, you can see the one on the right is backed all the way out.

I may have found my vacuum leak.

 

[Seth_O]

The manifold gasket looks brand new, but the PO smeared high-temp permatex on it.

So the question now is: finish tearing it all the way down and redo it, or tighten up my nuts 'n bolts and put it back together?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Permatex is a sure sign.... I know you can guess of what.

 

[mwebfj60]

The manifold gasket looks brand new, but the PO smeared high-temp permatex on it.

So the question now is: finish tearing it all the way down and redo it, or tighten up my nuts 'n bolts and put it back together?

Sure looks like #4 has had a pretty good exhaust leak. Maybe that’s an oil leak from above. If you have the gasket, I would pull the manifolds and check trueness and install the new gasket.

 

[Seth_O]

I have a decent exhaust leak from 2/3 and from 4/5 for sure. It looks like a ton of work to get those manifolds out. Sigh.

I thought I had read a couple of places that the carb insulator has no gasket, but found this on mine:

Is that factory? Or something the PO added? There is the same black gasket material on both sides.

 

[Dixon Santana]

I have a decent exhaust leak from 2/3 and from 4/5 for sure. It looks like a ton of work to get those manifolds out. Sigh.

I thought I had read a couple of places that the carb insulator has no gasket, but found this on mine:
View attachment 1661824

Is that factory? Or something the PO added? There is the same black gasket material on both sides.

The gasket is bonded onto the insulator. I bought a new insulator a while back and the gaskets were bonded to the insulator. If I were you I'd replace the manifold gasket and all of the other assorted gaskets, it would suck to take that all apart again. If you have the right tools removing the manifold is pretty straightforward.

 

[Seth_O]

I spent another hour or so on tear-down this afternoon.

I found 2 things in this pic:

The firewall / driver corner where the intake bolts to the exhaust manifold is missing it's bolt entirely. I am not sure how I had any vacuum with this thing at all.

I also found a really thick insulator/gasket where the EGR (?) Pipe bolts to the manifold.

Is that stock? I ask because with it there I can barely thread down the nuts, and there are no threads left sticking out when the nuts are all the way snug.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have a decent exhaust leak from 2/3 and from 4/5 for sure. It looks like a ton of work to get those manifolds out. Sigh.

I thought I had read a couple of places that the carb insulator has no gasket, but found this on mine:
View attachment 1661824

Is that factory? Or something the PO added? There is the same black gasket material on both sides.

I noticed the ring of oily residue around that carb bolt too. Now seeing the insulator it makes perfect sense.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Strange that you were missing that last exh bolt but it’s a pain to get snug. Maybe it was there but loose and jiggled its way out at some point.
I have this gasket for the exh end of the egr from SOR. It’s pretty thick not sure if the intake end would be as well. I can’t recall.

FYI, the base of the intake where the carb sits above is very very black. Be sure to clean it out and inspect well for a crack. The underside if you pull the two apart will have a dry carbon build up along it. Very tell tale if you see it. Mine had a hairline crack and the footprint underneath was a clear indicator it was sucking through.