Build Resurrecting a mothballed '86 FJ60

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I was able to post the vid to youtube:



However, is the reading even meaningful taken at that location?
 
That’s just bad. Sorry but yeah your leaking hard or your adjusted wrong.
Something is way way off. I’m surprised you were able to drive it. Gauge should be well over to the 15/16-18ish range.
 
NeverGiveUpYota said:
That’s just bad. Sorry but yeah your leaking hard or your adjusted wrong.
Something is way way off. I’m surprised you were able to drive it. Gauge should be well over to the 15/16-18ish range.
Click to expand...

I need another option besides "Like", "Quote" or "Reply". I need "Well, that sucks but I am grateful for your input!"

I'm going to try the test again from another spot, although I don't know that it will give me a different result.
 
What circuit did you T into with the gauge? Maybe try pulling the AC idle up line off and use that port without a T. If the vacuum is still that low either your gauge is malfunctioning or I would look at valve adjustment again. You had run a compression check earlier right?
I don't think it would idle with a 15 inch vacuum leak, that would be way too much unmetered air. Seems more of a suction issue with valves too tight.
 
mwebfj60 said:
What circuit did you T into with the gauge? Maybe try pulling the AC idle up line off and use that port without a T. If the vacuum is still that low either your gauge is malfunctioning or I would look at valve adjustment again. You had run a compression check earlier right?
I don't think it would idle with a 15 inch vacuum leak, that would be way too much unmetered air. Seems more of a suction issue with valves too tight.
Click to expand...

Apparently I tapped into a fuel scavaging port. I am pretty confident in my valve adjustments, especially as the compression test came back 148-152 across all 6 cylinders.

I'm going to try a different port, it may be that the one I used wasn't a direct connection to the manifold, so I may have gotten a false reading.
 
Gas Filter is kind of a misleading name for it, maybe because there's a filter inside. It supplies vacuum to the AI system VSV#1, ABV diaghragm and AI VSV#2, choke opener via BVSV, the HAC, and the distributor vent VCV. None of those individually would be that big of a vacuum drop. HAC (at low altitude) and choke opener have built in bleeds but only about 1/4" each. The AI VSV and ABV diaghragm are a bleed at certain conditions but only 1/2" or so.
Hope that helps.
 
I snuck out to the garage and ran the vacuum test again, this time from the port the brake booster uses.



I feel pretty dang good about that, and it makes way more sense with how driveable it is.

The running issues now:

1) when I first fire up the engine when cold it REALLY struggles, even with full choke. About the time the fan roar dies away the engine smooths out and runs great.

2) using the lean drop method I cant get the idle down low enough. With the idle screw backed all the way off the high speed set from the mixture screw is around 1k RPM's. Am I doing something wrong?
 
Much better. Maybe check the HIC and HAI diaghragm to make sure they are holding vacuum...or just pull the line off the T by the PCV and cap the T. That is a 2" drop if it's open and would be a cold run issue if the HAI diaghragm doesn't hold vacuum. Once warm, the HIC closes and no vacuum goes to the HAI diaghragm.

Also could be a Timing advance difference. The vacuum for the primary advance diaghragm goes through one of the BVSVs so it only gets vacuum after that BVSV heats up. On mine that is about the time the fan clutch lets go.
Are you adjusting the fast idle adjust screw or the idle adjust?
 
mwebfj60 said:
Much better. Maybe check the HIC and HAI diaghragm to make sure they are holding vacuum...or just pull the line off the T by the PCV and cap the T. That is a 2" drop if it's open and would be a cold run issue if the HAI diaghragm doesn't hold vacuum. Once warm, the HIC closes and no vacuum goes to the HAI diaghragm.

Also could be a Timing advance difference. The vacuum for the primary advance diaghragm goes through one of the BVSVs so it only gets vacuum after that BVSV heats up. On mine that is about the time the fan clutch lets go.
Are you adjusting the fast idle adjust screw or the idle adjust?
Click to expand...

Thanks for this, I'll go through these systems one by one. Honestly I haven't worked on a carb in like 10 years, and even then it was a '40, so a much simpler machine.

I adjusted both screws, but for the purposes of this exercise I did get the idle adjust screw (side of the carb facing the front of the vehicle.) The high idle screw adjusted great while the engine was warm. It only runs wonky while cold.
 
The screw on the fan side is for the AC idle up. IM you know. Screw closest to carb base firewall side is Idle Speed and the one further back sitting semi outward of the linkages (firewall side as well) is High Idle (set w/ choke pulled out to about 1800). Photo below.
Sorry my explanation on the gas filter was so bad. I should have simply tagged Marc to begin with... he’s a true carb guru.

5EF2C28F-0BE2-402E-9F30-3D052495F463.webp
 
Last edited:
Seth_O said:
Anyone have a source for the small plastic 'anchors' for the side vents? Ours are either missing, or crumble when touched. No luck at the dealer.
Click to expand...

The Napa parts I bought (pictured earlier in the thread) worked great for the front vents, but ultimately were too large for the rear vents (behind the cargo glass.)

Found the PN's for the factory anchors (called 'retainer' according to Toyota.) They are PN 62909-22010. Ordered them from my dealer at a painful $1.72 ea, and since I need so many they're coming from all over the country (LA, Portland, Boston....)

Taking the small wins where I can get them....
 
Vac is good enough to get the rig idling under 1k. Start out by setting Mixture screw 4 turns out from lightly seated, start the truck. See if you can get the truck to idle at 700 with only the idle speed screw. If not, do as @mwebfj60 said and take a peak at the timing at the lowest idle you can get where its smooth, see how far off it is from the indicator.

Forgive me if I didn't see as I didn't cruise the whole thread but, it would also help to put the distributor pin bushing fix on as well while you're setting timing.
 
Go to, @Roadster66 The Rushing Turdle build thread, about post #154 for directions how to recurve for ~$17.
 
Ah yes. My mistake. Do the pin bushing then cuz your most likely missing it.
 
While waiting for an opportunity to work on the dizzy bushing I snapped this pic of the front bumper.

20180206_202133.webp


Wrong bumper? From a '62? Or wrong brackets? Or missing spacer? Or something else entirely?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom