Resonator Chop Roll Call

[ga12r1]

That’s dangerous if it’s the factory bar. They aren’t very thick and can fatigue and crack from a simple bend like that.
I had one let go on my last 4runner on a freeway ramp and it was not a pleasant experience.

While not ideal I inspected the bar and determined it would hold until I can get a replacement. It just happened last week on Poison Spider. I’m skipping track day and driving my 100 in the mean time

 

[DesertLC]

While not ideal I inspected the bar and determined it would hold until I can get a replacement. It just happened last week on Poison Spider. I’m skipping track day and driving my 100 in the mean time

I’ve mountain biked that trail a couple times, I can see it being tough on the truck!

 

[fos373]

$7. Auto zone. Need to actually weld it place but that will be tomorrow’s project. It’s will take longer to plug the welder in and get set up.....

 

[jrmudder92]

$7. Auto zone. Need to actually weld it place but that will be tomorrow’s project. It’s will take longer to plug the welder in and get set up.....


View attachment 2587528

That’s basically what I did. Cheep angle

 

[tbisaacs]

Chop chop

 

[TeCKis300]

Wanting to do this. Not that I need the clearance with stock bumpers. Just another tweak and maybe justifying in my mind:

1) Weight reduction
2) +1 HP
3) Dislike exhaust pointing back when hitching up
4) Maybe open room for a small water tank? Possibly even use heat from the exhaust for warm water?

 

[AnyMal]

Is there an accessory tip or anything that can slip on and does not require a weld?

I can easily cut not weld at home. Sorry for the dumb question.

 

[Fisher23]

I'm wondering if some water tank can fit in there.

Has anyone put a water tank in there?

 

[bemerritt]

I'm wondering if some water tank can fit in there.

Has anyone put a water tank in there?

i have been eying that as well. Put the exhaust out the side and get a water tank in there. Once i get the LRA fuel tank in there, i will probably go for it. Should be able to get somewhere in the 5-10 gallons in there. Room for a pump up on the frame rail as well.

 

[Fisher23]

I put that LRA 40 in there .. and it's I think the best mod I've done. Especially being in a Hurricane area, but I would have also done it in Cali .. being around all that BLM area to run around in.

I'm thinking 10 gallon water and some heat shield. A marine pump is easy to fit.

 

[chriscosta416]

Chopped off mine! What does everyone do to relocate the exhaust? Any estimate on what an exhaust shop would charge?

 

[radman]

Chopped off mine! What does everyone do to relocate the exhaust? Any estimate on what an exhaust shop would charge?

$40-60!

Check out post #26

 

[BadReligion]

Joined the club a few months ago. I crushed the resonator tip in Moab last year, but it got the axe (technically sawzall) during a Dissent rear bumper and LRA install. There is absolutely zero difference in sound. A lot different than an 80 series, where a resonator delete gives you a very annoying turbo whistle.

I was going to leave it straight cut until I towed a 6000# camper all of a few miles this past weekend. I noticed a burnt rubber/plastic smell and the bumper area directly in the path of the exhaust path was VERY hot. There are a lot of important wires in this area so a turn down tip is needed. Under normal driving, even on 400mi road trips, it never got that hot, but heavy towing is a different story.

I like to DIY everything, but to properly weld stainless, you need a helium based tri mix gas for MIG. I have 100% argon for TIG, but am not great at TIG on a radius and upside down under my truck. I went to the local weld supply shop and they only sell the giant tri mix bottles for like $700. Went to a local exhaust shop and they wanted to MIG on an aluminized steel tip, likely with some ER70s-6, which defeats the whole purpose of a stainless exhaust.

Thanks to a little internet searching and Amazon, it looks like flux cored 308L MIG wire works just fine with the C25 (75% argon, 25% CO2) bottle I have already, giving you a strong and corrosion resistant weld. Probably not as pretty as non flux core 308L using tri-mix gas, but who cares, its an exhaust tip.

Amazon product ASIN B097R33173
Amazon product ASIN B08S5LYT21
Towing the camper for our first family camp trip of the year this Friday, so I'll post some updates after.

 

[AnyMal]

Joined the club a few months ago. I crushed the resonator tip in Moab last year, but it got the axe (technically sawzall) during a Dissent rear bumper and LRA install. There is absolutely zero difference in sound. A lot different than an 80 series, where a resonator delete gives you a very annoying turbo whistle.

I was going to leave it straight cut until I towed a 6000# camper all of a few miles this past weekend. I noticed a burnt rubber/plastic smell and the bumper area directly in the path of the exhaust path was VERY hot. There are a lot of important wires in this area so a turn down tip is needed. Under normal driving, even on 400mi road trips, it never got that hot, but heavy towing is a different story.

I like to DIY everything, but to properly weld stainless, you need a helium based tri mix gas for MIG. I have 100% argon for TIG, but am not great at TIG on a radius and upside down under my truck. I went to the local weld supply shop and they only sell the giant tri mix bottles for like $700. Went to a local exhaust shop and they wanted to MIG on an aluminized steel tip, likely with some ER70s-6, which defeats the whole purpose of a stainless exhaust.

Thanks to a little internet searching and Amazon, it looks like flux cored 308L MIG wire works just fine with the C25 (75% argon, 25% CO2) bottle I have already, giving you a strong and corrosion resistant weld. Probably not as pretty as non flux core 308L using tri-mix gas, but who cares, its an exhaust tip.

Amazon product ASIN B097R33173
Amazon product ASIN B08S5LYT21
Towing the camper for our first family camp trip of the year this Friday, so I'll post some updates after.

Thanks for the notes. I have heard a variety of things on sound changing with the chop. Something I had since put off.
I may just take it a muffler shop and route it out straight back.

 

[BadReligion]

Its done. Stainless is definitely harder to work with than mild steel or even aluminum. Pretty hard and brittle.

For those who have yet to cut the resonator, see the first photo. Do not cut it this close. It makes attaching a tip harder. I had to remove one of the hanger connections to give me enough room to work with.

Metal chop saw made short work of this.

Even though I was running settings for 16ga metal and going very slow and doing small tacks, then connecting them, I was still burning through. 0.030 wire was not helping, but I could not find any 0.023 flux core. Going to the settings for 18ga made a big difference. No more burn through, but not the prettiest looking welds either. Few minutes with a flap disc took care of that.

I angled the tip down and to the side. It is probably 6 inches past the rear tire. I will monitor its pressure and temp when towing this weekend, but do not think this will create any issues.

Total cost: $70 in parts/materials.

 

[chriscosta416]

Its done. Stainless is definitely harder to work with than mild steel or even aluminum. Pretty hard and brittle.

For those who have yet to cut the resonator, see the first photo. Do not cut it this close. It makes attaching a tip harder. I had to remove one of the hanger connections to give me enough room to work with.

Metal chop saw made short work of this.

Even though I was running settings for 16ga metal and going very slow and doing small tacks, then connecting them, I was still burning through. 0.030 wire was not helping, but I could not find any 0.023 flux core. Going to the settings for 18ga made a big difference. No more burn through, but not the prettiest looking welds either. Few minutes with a flap disc took care of that.

I angled the tip down and to the side. It is probably 6 inches past the rear tire. I will monitor its pressure and temp when towing this weekend, but do not think this will create any issues.

I made that mistake of cutting it too close

 

[TeCKis300]

Its done. Stainless is definitely harder to work with than mild steel or even aluminum. Pretty hard and brittle.

For those who have yet to cut the resonator, see the first photo. Do not cut it this close. It makes attaching a tip harder. I had to remove one of the hanger connections to give me enough room to work with.

Metal chop saw made short work of this.

Even though I was running settings for 16ga metal and going very slow and doing small tacks, then connecting them, I was still burning through. 0.030 wire was not helping, but I could not find any 0.023 flux core. Going to the settings for 18ga made a big difference. No more burn through, but not the prettiest looking welds either. Few minutes with a flap disc took care of that.

I angled the tip down and to the side. It is probably 6 inches past the rear tire. I will monitor its pressure and temp when towing this weekend, but do not think this will create any issues.

Total cost: $70 in parts/materials.

Nicely done. Makes me want to get in there and chop chop.

Let us know how the towing goes and if there's too much noise/drone with this setup. I've been hesitant due to towing.

 

[clrussell]

Nicely done. Makes me want to get in there and chop chop.

Let us know how the towing goes and if there's too much noise/drone with this setup. I've been hesitant due to towing.

Just cut it. I cut mine last year and put the factory tip back on where I cut it to turn it down. 5 minutes of time and $0.. zero effect on noise level towing, zero fumes. Honestly no one has noticed but me.

No more leg on fire as it’s running and I’m at the back. Towed 4500 miles like that in one whack.

The fan is still louder on startup. I would be willing to bet if someone did a decibel test on a start from 3’ behind the tailpipe on the ground that the levels would be 98% the same.

I was skeptical about cutting mine but I 100% do not regret it and am actually 200% satisfied I did. I’ll grab a picture of my free work when it’s daylight enough.

 

[BadReligion]

Nicely done. Makes me want to get in there and chop chop.

Let us know how the towing goes and if there's too much noise/drone with this setup. I've been hesitant due to towing.

We did about 300mi towing a 6000# trailer and had no issues with either drone or heat. Average elevation was around 6000' and outside air temps varied from 65-75 degrees. I was just slightly concerned that the angle of the tip would heat the DS rear tire, but did not observe that while towing. I did not use a pyrometer, but based this on the TPMS readings, which did not change from DS rear to PS rear. The only change was about 1-2 psi depending on which side was in the sun. I did pull over at the top of a long uphill grade just to feel the rear bumper and both sides felt about the same, neither was uncomfortably hot to the touch.

Conclusion: resonator chop with a redirected tip has almost 0% impact on audible noise or increased temperatures....but chop with no tip does heat up the rear bumper area enough to get a "melting plastic" smell. This was only noticeable to me when towing, before adding the angled tip. Others have also reported issues with lights and wiring melting without a redirected tip.

On an 80 series, resonator delete is obnoxious. I am about to do it on a 100 and am curious to see if it falls in between the 80 and 200 in noise.

 

[LanceL]

We did about 300mi towing a 6000# trailer and had no issues with either drone or heat. Average elevation was around 6000' and outside air temps varied from 65-75 degrees. I was just slightly concerned that the angle of the tip would heat the DS rear tire, but did not observe that while towing. I did not use a pyrometer, but based this on the TPMS readings, which did not change from DS rear to PS rear. The only change was about 1-2 psi depending on which side was in the sun. I did pull over at the top of a long uphill grade just to feel the rear bumper and both sides felt about the same, neither was uncomfortably hot to the touch.

Conclusion: resonator chop with a redirected tip has almost 0% impact on audible noise or increased temperatures....but chop with no tip does heat up the rear bumper area enough to get a "melting plastic" smell. This was only noticeable to me when towing, before adding the angled tip. Others have also reported issues with lights and wiring melting without a redirected tip.

On an 80 series, resonator delete is obnoxious. I am about to do it on a 100 and am curious to see if it falls in between the 80 and 200 in noise.

Seconded, had mine chopped and re-routed by a shop recently. Just got back from a 2,000 mile road trip pulling a trailer up and down the rockies, no additional drone (which I am SUPER picky about), no real sound change at all, no other issues. Glad I did it.