2004 with 180k miles. Original radiator is very brown on top. Was considering replacing it as planned maintenance. I make a few trips to Colorado per year and wouldn’t want a trip ruined. It doesn’t leak, fluids look good, maintenance has always been kept up, etc. What’s the consensus? Replace it now or don’t worry about it? Also wanted to confirm the part number is indeed 16400-50290. Seems i someone saying the dealers carried a cheaper version- I don’t want that.
Replacing radiator as preventative maintenance? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter plainjanefjc
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Most will opt to replace if it is brown and micro fractured. Im a fan of doing things prior to them breaking. A radiator is a quick and easy job and not much cost.
OEM can go 15 years without any issues. If denso or koyo radiator is installed.. 10 years.. any chepo radiator.. possibly 5 to 7 years. I installed a cheap radiator into my corolla (city driver) and after 5 years.. notice a smoke coming out of the engine.. pulled to the side and the upper gasket between the core and plastic tank was leaking.
Also inspect for any cracks in the plastic fan. if cracked replace with AISIN or OEM blade. I was lucky I was able to witness a piece of plastic flying off the blade and hitting radiator while I had the hood up!
Also inspect for any cracks in the plastic fan. if cracked replace with AISIN or OEM blade. I was lucky I was able to witness a piece of plastic flying off the blade and hitting radiator while I had the hood up!
- Thread starter
- #4
Mine is 20 years old
Absolutely, Just do it.
26 years on mine. Borrowed time.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
Replace radiator preventatively
I'm getting ready to do my timing belt service. in addition to timing belt kit/seals/water pump, I'm also planning to replace serpentine belt/tensioner/idler/fan bracket/thermostat/radiator hoses. The truck has 130K miles on it, and the radiator looks to be in decent shape. Is there any good...
forum.ih8mud.com
I am not taking any chances. I was so close to blow the HG in my 97 4runner over Sierra Nevada mountains back in a summer of 2010! Radiator was OEM (13 years old) but contaminants have clogged the core pretty badly. Once the cap was open the core looked new! but the clogged core pipes were further out of the radiator cap and cannot be seen just by looking down from the radiator cap opening. About 60% were clogged. I caught the temp needle was rising... glad I caught it before it reached red zone.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I use the 16400-50360. It is the same, just cost less. It, like the other 2 (US, Canada and Mexican spec.), of which we can only get 2 (US & MX) in North America and the factory install. Are T-Rad's.
If brown and cracking. Then it has NOT always be keep full and or coolant NOT always fresh. In these we can remove upper radiator hose from radiator neck. Then wipe and let plastic gooseneck dry. If plastic gooseneck crumbs, then it would be a good idea to PM.
Also if radiators' fins have not been kept clean. Deepening on how clogged and with what. It would be a good idea to just replace. Since we can't get perfectly clean in-situ.
Often times, if radiator weak, so is cap. We replace the cap, pressure goes up in system to speak, and weak radiators then crack/leak.
If using aftermarket radiator do replace all foam.
I also replace same time: Both hoses, cap, thermostats and tees if their not new or newish.
Radiator fins need cleaning! Alert Alert Alert
I've a 06LC w/192K I just bought. In reading history I found PO complained of engine temp raising when both front and rear AC on. Toyota Dealership diagnosed with clogged radiator fins. Recommended new OEM radiator, $600 for the US spec Radaitor plus coolant and labor. They should have added...
forum.ih8mud.com
yes, this is possibly the most important preventative maint. item. I replaced mine @ 160k miles / 25 years - with ah new CSF aluminum, no regrets - cools amazingly well
Jack90210
SILVER Star
When you pull the radiator to replace it, backflush the AC condenser coil while you have access. And since you'll be draining the system, it'll be a good time to replace t-stat, tees, and any hoses that don't look good (I replaced them all, ha).
I'll be curious to see how dirty the exterior fins are on the old radiator when you pull it out.
I'll be curious to see how dirty the exterior fins are on the old radiator when you pull it out.
23 and spotless, but only about 84k miles.
Why not replace? It’s honestly a maintenance item
- Thread starter
- #14
Tees and stat have been replaced in past few years. Im going to do the upper and lower hoses, cap, new tension clamps with the radiator. Getting it ordered tomorrow
Good idea.
Just as another data point - the reason I have my particular 2005 LX is because the previous owner let the original radiator split open, and then kept driving from what I can tell. That killed the 2UZ in it (at 255K miles) that otherwise probably would have gone for several hundred thousand miles more.
Jack90210
SILVER Star
"It still works!"Were they going for the claim of the oldest radiator
Until it doesn't.
Summer is right around the corner and your aging less efficient radiator will receive more stress running the AC, hotter outside temperatures during idle and running. Your engine will appreciate efficient coolant performance with the new radiator.
- Thread starter
- #19
What’s the difference between a 16400-50290 and a 16400-50360. I see both online at my local dealer-the first one is 250 more
I think mine is good too haha.
Jokes aside that's the most low hanging fruit you can pick, just replace it.
Jokes aside that's the most low hanging fruit you can pick, just replace it.
