Replacement Fuse Panel (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Rooster47

Rooster47

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Threads
39
Messages
229
Location
Summerville, SC
After weeks of wiggling wires every morning to get my headlights to work, they finally gave up and quit on me. That location on the fuse panel is looking a little melted, so I'm pretty happy I got away without an electrical fire at some point. So...

I'd like to replace the fuse panel with a new one that has the spade style fuses. I'd like to have a few extra locations for misc. accessories that I may add in the future. What's a good option?

Also I'm thinking about replacing the wiring one system at a time as I have time. I saw Coolerman sells wire by the foot and lots of connectors and other items I might need. Any reason this isn't a good idea? I'd run both fuse panels as I slowly switch over to the new one. That's the thought at least.

This is my daily driver so I can't have it down except over the weekends.
 
After spending time getting a new EZ harness in mine with the entire wiring done at once, I almost can't imagine doing one circuit at a time. I just picture the spaghetti pile sitting in the garage floor when I pulled the old harness out. I think the EZ harness was actually pretty easy to use, but it would take a few good weekends to get it done.
 
How about replacing it with an ATO type fuse block from a later 40 or 60? You can pick them up cheap in the classifieds or on eBay.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
 
This is what I installed for the main and the aux fuse panels. They are from Centech and are the PDP-1B and the AP-1. I have a six circuit blue sea brand of fuse block under the hood of my 6.5L TD and have never had a problem with it. The Centech PDP-1B dimensionally fit the space of the original fuse panel in my 40 better than any other I checked out.
Centech PDP-1B 01.jpg
Centech PDP-1B 04.jpg
Aux Fuse Panel 02.jpg
 
bsevans said:
This is what I installed for the main and the aux fuse panels. They are from Centech and are the PDP-1B and the AP-1. I have a six circuit blue sea brand of fuse block under the hood of my 6.5L TD and have never had a problem with it. The Centech PDP-1B dimensionally fit the space of the original fuse panel in my 40 better than any other I checked out.
Click to expand...

Nice looking fuse block.
 
Well, I like the look of the Centech, especially the built in flashers, but it was a little too pricey. I opted for the Blue Sea, should see it in a few days.

Thanks for all the insight.
 
Good luck with doing it one circuit/system at a time. Almost everything runs under the dash behind the instrument panel, heater, cowl vent lever, etc. You will get very good at pulling all that out if the way to get each one done. Do flexibility exercises too because you are gonna spend a lot of time practically standing on your head trying to get to switches and pulling wires.

I did the Painless harness and there is no way I would ever consider telling someone to do a wiring harness one circuit/system at a time....even a J**p owner!
 
I just replaced one wire in my loom that was fried. It was the main hot wire that I fried when I grounded out my alternator lead. It took about 5 hrs over 2 days. Hardest part is pulling all the tape of the original wire bundle. My fingers have hurt for days, and I'm used to that kind of work. You have to pull out your heater, ducting, radio, and gauge cluster. Then you lay on your back reaching up under the dash. Not fun but do-able.

I think it's possible to do it in stages if you live somewhere warm and don't need to put your heater back together every time.
 
Finally had enough of the PO's POS wiring rat's nest and decided to go with my rewire too while my heater was out for rebuild. Thanks to Coolerman for my coded wire and picked up the Bluesea 12 circuit, along with some Waytek stuff to make it happen. Will mount in OEM location on a custom made Al bracket. This is the work in progress part.:cheers:
IMAG0243.jpg
IMAG0244.jpg
IMAG0245.jpg
 
StaleAle said:
Good luck with doing it one circuit/system at a time. Almost everything runs under the dash behind the instrument panel, heater, cowl vent lever, etc. You will get very good at pulling all that out if the way to get each one done. Do flexibility exercises too because you are gonna spend a lot of time practically standing on your head trying to get to switches and pulling wires.

I did the Painless harness and there is no way I would ever consider telling someone to do a wiring harness one circuit/system at a time....even a J**p owner!
Click to expand...

I did it one at a time :meh: not on a daily driver, though
 
Okay, so the one circuit at a time idea seems to be loosing it's luster.

Anybody know where I can find a wiring diagram for a 1976 FJ40 so I can at least see what I'm up against.

The cruiser just seems so simple, why are there so many wires rat nested up under my dash?
 
Rooster47 said:
Okay, so the one circuit at a time idea seems to be loosing it's luster.

Anybody know where I can find a wiring diagram for a 1976 FJ40 so I can at least see what I'm up against.

The cruiser just seems so simple, why are there so many wires rat nested up under my dash?
Click to expand...

There is a guy "Prospero". His website is colorwiringdiagrams.com.
He sells 11x17 laminated wiring diagrams year by year for $20 and shipping is free. I got mine for '74 from him.
 
Painless 20 Circuit Fuse Block

Speaking of fuse panels, and Painless products, has anyone used this Painless fuse block? Looks like an easy plug-and-play option.


P/N 30004
20 Circuit Weatherproof Fuse Block Kit

"Just want to replace an exposed, unreliable fuseblock with something dependable? This new 20-circuit fuseblock from Painless is the answer. It comes fully assembled with wire leads that you can connect to your existing wiring and is completely sealed from the elements for trouble-free performance. Mounting bracket included."
 
Sea Knight said:
Speaking of fuse panels, and Painless products, has anyone used this Painless fuse block? Looks like an easy plug-and-play option.

[URL="http://www.painlesswiring.com/webcatalog/plarge/30004.jpg"][/URL]

P/N 30004
20 Circuit Weatherproof Fuse Block Kit

"Just want to replace an exposed, unreliable fuseblock with something dependable? This new 20-circuit fuseblock from Painless is the answer. It comes fully assembled with wire leads that you can connect to your existing wiring and is completely sealed from the elements for trouble-free performance. Mounting bracket included."
Click to expand...

Lee,

I had the painless fuse block in my 40 before I tore it down. The PO installed a painless kit with that above fuse block. It was legitimate but since it came with the wiring kit, everything was all soldered in. I still have it and believe a fellow mudder is going to use it in his build since I got a new fuse block with my new wiring kit.
 
Sully73FJ40 said:
Lee,

I had the painless fuse block in my 40 before I tore it down. The PO installed a painless kit with that above fuse block. It was legitimate but since it came with the wiring kit, everything was all soldered in. I still have it and believe a fellow mudder is going to use it in his build since I got a new fuse block with my new wiring kit.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Let me know if he doesn't take it. I may take it off your hands if I haven't already bought something else. I'm in no hurry. Probably won't get around to the fuse block project until this Summer.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Malleus
'77 FJ40 front/rear floor panel stiffener replacement
Replies
6
Views
846
CondeCruiser
CondeCruiser
myquestoyota
Removing rear quarter panel
Replies
3
Views
538
Augustiron
Augustiron
ATXFJ43
  • Question
FJ43 Replacement Parts
Replies
10
Views
784
Mark Jennings
Mark Jennings
sleepycruiser
5 slot to 6 slot fuse box question
Replies
8
Views
372
sleepycruiser
sleepycruiser

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom