Replaced Dizzy -- Now my idle is inconsistent? (1 Viewer)

[Therealtotodile]

Hey boys.

I got a new oem dizzy in the rig, I am pretty certain everything was correctly installed. 0 degree setting and lined up rotor and teeth on the gear end of the dizzy.

Truck is running fine, EXCEPT that my idle moved up. In P Im sitting like 1000-1100, and at 900 or like 875 in drive. When I shift from 2 to 3, there is a like jump in rpms right after the shift, that is more noticeable when i dont have my foot on the gas.

I know the computer does some sort of adjustment for these sorts of things. Anybody know how long it should take for that to adjust?

And secondly, do i just need to play with the TPS/magic screw? I am hesitant to do this, because everything was nicely tuned before i replaced the dizzy. I see no reason my idle should have changed from the dizzy swap, so I am a but stumped. Hope someone can enlighten me here.

Best,
Chris

 

[flintknapper]

Chris IF you didn't set the timing (3 degrees BTDC) after installing the distributor....that might be your issue. If the distributor timing is advanced significantly it can affect engine rpm. Also....IF you disconnected your battery for any reason....it takes a few driving sessions (and engine starts) to settle down/relearn the correct idle speed.

 

[Therealtotodile]

Chris IF you didn't set the timing (3 degrees BTDC) after installing the distributor....that might be your issue. If the distributor timing is advanced significantly it can affect engine rpm. Also....IF you disconnected your battery for any reason....it takes a few driving sessions (and engine starts) to settle down/relearn the correct idle speed.

God damnit. I certainly did not set it to 3. And just to be clear, you’re saying after I was done installing the dizzy, I should have moved it back to 3, then started it? If it was at 0 still, what would that mean for the truck currently? Thanks sir

 

[Therealtotodile]

God damnit. I certainly did not set it to 3. And just to be clear, you’re saying after I was done installing the dizzy, I should have moved it back to 3, then started it? If it was at 0 still, what would that mean for the truck currently? Thanks

Also forgot to mention I jumped back in the whip and it’s back to normal. It was normal all day, until I stopped to get gas, where the issue started. I let it sit for the last two hours and now it’s back to normal?

 

[Irish Reiver]

When you replace the dizzy the engine is at TDC (crank pulley will be at 0). You line up the marks on the dizzy housing and gear and gently roll it into place. This is the 0 degree portion. Now you must short out the terminals on the terminal box (TE1 & E1 i think) fire up the truck and rotate the dizzy until you get 3 degrees. As @flintknapper says, you now need to give it a few driving cycles to let everything settle down.

 

[mudgudgeon]

God damnit. I certainly did not set it to 3. And just to be clear, you’re saying after I was done installing the dizzy, I should have moved it back to 3, then started it? If it was at 0 still, what would that mean for the truck currently? Thanks sir

Adjust the timing with the engine running using a timing light AFTER jumping terminals in the diagnostics port

Install dizzy with crank at TDC aka 0⁰

 

[jonheld]

Hey boys.

I got a new oem dizzy in the rig, I am pretty certain everything was correctly installed. 0 degree setting and lined up rotor and teeth on the gear end of the dizzy.

Truck is running fine, EXCEPT that my idle moved up. In P Im sitting like 1000-1100, and at 900 or like 875 in drive. When I shift from 2 to 3, there is a like jump in rpms right after the shift, that is more noticeable when i dont have my foot on the gas.

I know the computer does some sort of adjustment for these sorts of things. Anybody know how long it should take for that to adjust?

And secondly, do i just need to play with the TPS/magic screw? I am hesitant to do this, because everything was nicely tuned before i replaced the dizzy. I see no reason my idle should have changed from the dizzy swap, so I am a but stumped. Hope someone can enlighten me here.

Best,
Chris

Whatever you do, don't download the Toyota FSM for free in the resources section, and don't read the chapter that gives detailed step by step instructions on distributor installation and timing adjustments starting on page IG-21.

 

[Therealtotodile]

Thanks everybody for the info. Going to harbor freight after work to grab a timing light. Anybody recommend one? The analog ones seem to work pretty well per threads on this forum, and are like 30$.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Thanks everybody for the info. Going to harbor freight after work to grab a timing light. Anybody recommend one? The analog ones seem to work pretty well per threads on this forum, and are like 30$.

Doesn't need to be anything fancy. $30 should get you what you need

 

[Therealtotodile]

Hey boys. I set the timing to three degrees, pulled out the jumper, and let the car settle. Everything seemed to be back to normal, RPMs sitting at like 650 at idle. My Park idle was also low.

Today, it started normally, but once hot, seemed to go back to the same symptoms it was showing, which was a high idle and like a rpm bump, if you will, between 2 and 3. Generally power feels low. When I stop and start, it seems to modulate the behavior, not sure if its tied to temp yet.

It actually threw a code as well, which ended up being 71. Now I'm starting to think i somehow dislodged a vacuum hose, or something of the like, when I replaced the dizzy. I did also replace my PAIR valve this morning (it was falling apart, studs had come out on the little bell shaped valves on the side), but the behavior matches that of when I swapped the dizzy two days ago and didn't set timing. The PAIR had been non-functional for like 3 weeks, and since its my daily I have been driving on it. Any reason this could be the cause of the 71?

Best,
Chris

 

[mudgudgeon]

Check for vacuum leaks.

Cracked main intake hose can be a sneaky one.
PCV hose and PCV grommet on the valve cover.
Any other vacuum hoses, including all the small ones.
Oil cap seal.
Dipstick tube seal

I found the small vacuum hose I sourced from local auto parts was a loose fit, and not sealing fully on metal vacuum lines. Had to replace it all with a different size

 

[use2bn83]

71 is an egr malfunction. I agree that a vacuum leak could cause that .. I suppose. Not sure what vacuum line you would have disturbed besides maybe the PAIR line.

Did you do any other work while you had the distributor out?

 

[CharlieS]

I've become a huge fan of smoke testing to find vacuum leaks.

 

[NKP Garage]

As mentioned, you need to set the timing. I did a video the last time I did one to show the process. Pretty easy to do, all you need is a timing light and a piece of wire to jumper the two pins in the diagnostic connector.

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[Therealtotodile]

As mentioned, you need to set the timing. I did a video the last time I did one to show the process. Pretty easy to do, all you need is a timing light and a piece of wire to jumper the two pins in the diagnostic connector.

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I appreciate the video sir, I have set the timing to 3 degrees. Starting to think I had a hidden EGR code I didnt know about when I did the dizzy swap. Everything seems fine now, just higher RPMs than normal when the truck is hot. I played with the tranny cable and was able to get the shifting behavior to change. Still cannot find the source of the EGR code. Time to follow FSM protocols for 71 troubleshoot.... The first thing I tried was to take a look at the temp sensor.... Which is almost impossible to remove on a 93? There is no way to get a wrench on it without removing the entire EGR piece.... Also need to go grab a pressure guage.

 

[Therealtotodile]

71 is an egr malfunction. I agree that a vacuum leak could cause that .. I suppose. Not sure what vacuum line you would have disturbed besides maybe the PAIR line.

Did you do any other work while you had the distributor out?

Just the PAIR, but that was after the high idle when hot behavior begun.

 

[lpgariepy]

New here, searching info on the 71 code and fell on this live thread! Changed the distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, adjusted the throttle and tranny cables, resulted in poor idling, especially when wet outside, then … boom: 71 EGR code. So checking vacuum lines and the 3 deg timing are the first steps?

 

[mudgudgeon]

So checking vacuum lines and the 3 deg timing are the first steps?

The stuff you listed is ticking off the low hanging fruit to a degree. Start simple. Check anything you recently changed or may have disturbed

Download the appropriate FSM from the Reources tab in the menu woulid be a good first step beyond that.

 

[Fj80oregon]

New here, searching info on the 71 code and fell on this live thread! Changed the distributor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, adjusted the throttle and tranny cables, resulted in poor idling, especially when wet outside, then … boom: 71 EGR code. So checking vacuum lines and the 3 deg timing are the first steps?

Use the FSM to troubleshoot then start your own thread or search for other threads. Jumping in someone else’s thread to fix your issue is bad etiquette.

 

[lpgariepy]

Use the FSM to troubleshoot then start your own thread or search for other threads. Jumping in someone else’s thread to fix your issue is bad etiquette.

you’re right, I guess that was a highjack, thx