bloc
SILVER Star
Spark plug wells are a separate issue that @Taco2Cruiser (I think) has written about. Not a great job to address.
Replace that PCV valve (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter airdzi
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thanks, just read. I dont want to do that part anytime soon especially as most of them are saying its not going to affect majorly.
So I replaced mine this weekend and noticed quite a bit of gunk buildup in the tube. What’s the best way to get rid of that stuff or do I just need to sea foam the engine oil? Doesn’t look like the valve had ever been replaced on mine in 168k
bloc
SILVER Star
A new hose retails for about $17, $10 on the retail sites. 12261-38020
I would strongly advise against seafoam.. that is very, very old tech and modern engines oils are not... old tech. They have pretty advanced chemistry and what seafoam would do to that balance is anyone's guess. Not to mention potentially attacking rubber seals, etc.
Just keep on top of your oil changes and run a high quality synthetic for their detergent additives and hit the road.
Sorry, not the hose, the actual tube that the pcv screws into. The pcv was stuck open and there was a buildup of grime down into the engine.
I tried to clean out what I could
bloc
SILVER Star
Ohhh.. yeah that would be a lot more expensive and involved to replace.
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Did mine this weekend. 2008 with 143k. It was bad. No rattle at all. Had my 12 year old helping and was showing him how to check it. Told him to hold it up to his ear and shake it. He told me the new one had something broken inside because it rattled and the old one didn’t. Had to explain how it worked.
The factory tire iron will double a PCV remover.
When removing the PCV, take note of how much force is used. The PCV is made of plastic, and I can only assume it wouldn't take much force to strip it.
When removing the PCV, take note of how much force is used. The PCV is made of plastic, and I can only assume it wouldn't take much force to strip it.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
This (tire iron) worked like a charm.
I tightened mine to basically where it was tight in turning and wouldn’t turn anymore without putting force on it if that makes sense. Should that be tight enough? I felt like if I tightened it anymore it could potentially break/crack.
Mine wasn’t completely clogged, but it almost was. The new one rattled a ton and the old one was barely ratting.
Yep, if not a little too tight. You should be able to pretty much remove by hand, or maybe just a hair over.
happy to report that after replacing my PCV valve, I dont observe any engine oil decrease over 5000 miles.
Before replacing valve, I had to top off my engine oil with a quart or two near the 5000 mile mark.
Before replacing valve, I had to top off my engine oil with a quart or two near the 5000 mile mark.
I replaced mine tonight. Old one was pretty gunky but had a tiny bit of rattle left.
I replaced mine a few days ago, I'm pretty sure it was the original part with 175k miles and was stuck open. Unfortunately I can report that there was no increase in my dismal fuel economy. 
arnott1t
SILVER Star
This thread is very interesting.
A few weeks ago I was coasting into a gas station and got and engine light and notices low oil pressure. Shut it down and coasted to station. Truck needed 6 liter of oil to get onto dip stick. Bottom was covered with oil. I figured I'd thrown a rod or something terrible...
Towed it home put it in the shop... removed and drained oil and skids plates.... changed the oil. Started it up. Ran great, no knocks, no nothing....
no leaks.... none... zip zero.....
Washed the truck off the bottom and looked again.... not so much as a drip.....been driving ever since... running like a top but i've been terrified without a root cause. One mchanic suggested PCV problem that pushed the oil out.
Just ordered a new one.....
Also the day it let its oil out was -30C so very cold.... I'd driven in 5 hours at that point though....
Anyway super interesting.
A few weeks ago I was coasting into a gas station and got and engine light and notices low oil pressure. Shut it down and coasted to station. Truck needed 6 liter of oil to get onto dip stick. Bottom was covered with oil. I figured I'd thrown a rod or something terrible...
Towed it home put it in the shop... removed and drained oil and skids plates.... changed the oil. Started it up. Ran great, no knocks, no nothing....
no leaks.... none... zip zero.....
Washed the truck off the bottom and looked again.... not so much as a drip.....been driving ever since... running like a top but i've been terrified without a root cause. One mchanic suggested PCV problem that pushed the oil out.
Just ordered a new one.....
Also the day it let its oil out was -30C so very cold.... I'd driven in 5 hours at that point though....
Anyway super interesting.
I replaced mine a few days ago, I'm pretty sure it was the original part with 175k miles and was stuck open. Unfortunately I can report that there was no increase in my dismal fuel economy.
View attachment 3194926
Give it time maybe, if you have scanning you could watch if the trims improve.
Mac62
SILVER Star
Circling back to green tip vs black tip. When I bought my replacement valve the other day, Toyota parts guy mentioned there could be a minor weight difference in the small rattle ball inside the actual valve designed for flex fuel Pcv valve and Toyota denotes that by having two specific part numbers for what appears to be the same part with different color tips?? He said either would work but I stuck to the black one.
Black
For what it is worth I still have the green one in mine and everything is running perfect (Probably around 10-11k miles later)
