Replace that PCV valve (3 Viewers)

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So to summarize now we know the 1224-38030 is a part that works with Flex Fuel ready truck.
Can a flex Fuel truck still drive and function properly on traditional gas? - of course so the part fits and it will work.
Not trying to be difficult just logical and it sounds like the parts guy didn't quite do his homework... thank you to all for clarifying the issue.
I also made a change to my earlier comment about the updated part above.

The most important aspect of this lesson is still please check your PCV valve for proper function.

Cheers!

I don't mean to beat a dead horse :deadhorse:, but something about this is still bugging me.

I also have no doubt that the 12204-38030 Flex Fuel part will also work with regular Gasoline. What bugs me, and makes no sense to me, is if the Flex Fuel part works equally well with BOTH Flex Fuel and regular Gasoline, then why didn't Toyota supercede the 12204-38010 part with the 12204-38030 part? Since they did not, now they have to track, maintain and inventory two parts instead of one. From the company that brought the world "Just In Time" inventory management, this seems like a terrible oversight.

I guess I'll always have a niggle of a doubt that there MUST be a performance difference between the two parts that justifies Toyota carrying both in inventory.

Just a thought.

Peace
 
I am only going to assume (total speculation here) that because the Flex Fuel type has green cap, Toyota doesn't want to create confusion when mechanics may recognize green cap under the hood in the future as flex fuel engine and potentially lead to possibly ordering other Flex Fuel engine parts in error?

Just a thought on my side
 
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Things don’t always have to make any sense to be. It could be as simple as there being two separate engineering teams at Toyota, one for the emissions systems on flex fuel vehicles and another for none flex fuel vehicles that didn’t coordinate or realize that their PCV valves were the same except for color.

or maybe there is some minuscule difference but one is optimized for 15% ethanol and the other for non ethanol but either work in the other.

for $12, we could buy one of each and cut them in half to see if anything is really different.
 
I am only going to assume (total speculation here) that because the Flex Fuel type has green cap, Toyota doesn't want to create confusion when mechanics may recognize green cap under the hood in the future as flex fuel engine and potentially lead to possibly ordering other Flex Fuel engine parts in error?

Just a thought on my side

Costco installed green plastic valve caps on my wheels and I was like WTF, went back and asked for my Lexus aluminum caps, no questions asked, I put them back on and green ones in the cup holder. Then I put my brain to work, they installed green caps to indicate tires are nitrogen filled. They are fugly but I saved them, I can put them on and go back to Costco to get FREE nitrogen fill.

When I purchased parts for the LX from the Toyota dealer I selected 2010 Toyota Land Cruiser VX 5.7L V8 4WD AT

Attached image shows the part I got.

Fits Land Cruiser so I guess Im covered. I would take extra 1-2 mpg plus car truly runs like a champ.

Most likely it is the same part, but could be different weight or more sensitive spring, when you receive your second green valve maybe you can compare markings on the weight to the old one you took apart.

4B1BF404-6792-49A9-BB3C-801A3B29EE26.jpeg
 
Yes I will try to compare them and get back to you - at the dealership I had both of them in hand and they looked identical to the "t"
 
The PCV is one of the most neglected, cheapest part, easier than an oil change part neglected in all vehicles. 93 octane is a waste in 200 motors. The compression is not high enough. Unless your 93 contains no ethanol and the 87 does contain it. If your using 87 @ 10% ethanol and the 93 at your station has no ethanol added you might see improved gas mileage. It is not the octane it is just the gas is not cut with corn waste. 93 vs 87 with no corn added the 87 should get you better mileage than 93.
Lester, as I mentioned in the top post I do use regular BP 87 in my car. 93 was just for the Italian tune up thing and I got 7 gallons mixed with 2 bottles of STP injector cleaner. 93 has high ratio of detergents compared to regular and I wanted that for the cleaning run. Again could be just marketing but I agree, if my car runs well on regular Im not paying double just to feel better. Despite towing heavy rig I have never heard a knock and believe computer is capable of compensating for the lower octanes on the timing side.
 
Yes I will try to compare them and get back to you - at the dealership I had both of them in hand and they looked identical to the "t"
Did they both rattle the same amount or the green one seemed more sensitive to shaking? If anything, i doubt, the one for Flex fuel would be more sensitive to change in pressure and that should also be beneficial for E10 running vehicles. If you run non ethanol old style sensor would be the one to go.

Just a speculation as i truly doubt they differ.

Living in the blue state where E10 seems mandatory, includes 91 and 93 octane, the only place I could get non ethanol gas is our marina and you sure pay premium for it, dollar more per gallon on average so it is a corn lobby all the way.

Also with my LX mpg gain using not ethanol vs E10 is not even that noticeble, if anything 1-2%. I still feel confident PCV vale fix and switch gave me, being conservative, close to 10%. Other maintenance items possibly contributed to the overall gain.

Also because of my towing history and 95K miles on the factory WS fluid I did not flush 12 quarts of tranny fluid all at once, better safe than sorry, I decided to just drain the pan vs doing complete oil
cooler flush. End result I only changed 4 vs 12 quarts of tranny fluid. Well in few months I would drain the pan again. Changing all the fluid at once would likely further contribute fuel economy but if your clutches are worn (in my case towing) that can truly bite you in the behind, rarely a problem on Toyota transmission but I heard about some TSBs advising against. Also if you are not dropping your tranny pan (pan bolts can take you for a ride) there is a benefit of draining the pan vs doing oil cooler line flush. WS fluid in the pan is PRE filter so you always drain some metal shavings with it. Magnets can only hold so much of that stuff. Oil cooler flush all metal shavings stay in the pan.

Another item which may have affected my fuel economy is that I switched transfer case fluid to the lighter one recommended for model years 2013 and above. That was also educated decision as I was often getting flashing differential lock light on the dash on cold start and read (possibly on this site) that switching to the particular German gear oil in lighter grade cures the issue. It did work for me 100%. Diff light was never an issue on the warm car. Still it was PITA because when it is on it disables your cruise control.

Another contributing factor I adjusted my parking brake too loose. FSM calls for 7, possibly 8 notches from the complete wheel lock. Well good for the fuel economy but bad for the holding power of my parking brake. I asked Toyota service tech about it and he recommended just 4 notches down on the adjustor.

So learning from the experience, if above information helps others out = GrEAT!
 
I suspect the green PCV is some slightly different chemical composition in the plastic to better withstand high ethanol content fuel in a FFV.

I also suspect that there are still two part numbers because either (a) it's cheaper to produce the non-green PCV, or (b) there is some EPA certification required to officially change the part. So quite likely you can safely use the green PCV in your LC/LX, but you can't necessarily use the black one in all Tundras/Sequoias as it's incompatible with those that have the flex fuel engine

I could be wrong on all accounts, of course.
 
Wow what a lively and lengthy conversation about a part that in many ways is often neglected and ignored. I'm definitely in the "change it often" group. This is what can happen if yours gets clogged:

IMG_20180128_101912.jpg


That was on my '11, it really gave me a good scare. I had all sorts of awful scenarios keeping me awake at night. I would clean that schmoo out, and in a few days it was back. Long trips made no difference. Oh boy.

Then on a whim I figured I'd try the PCV valve. Takes only a few minutes, I found a O2 sensor socket works really well. Took a few days to get all that crap out of the engine, but it totally went away. Phew!
 
I suspect the green PCV is some slightly different chemical composition in the plastic to better withstand high ethanol content fuel in a FFV.

I also suspect that there are still two part numbers because either (a) it's cheaper to produce the non-green PCV, or (b) there is some EPA certification required to officially change the part. So quite likely you can safely use the green PCV in your LC/LX, but you can't necessarily use the black one in all Tundras/Sequoias as it's incompatible with those that have the flex fuel engine

I could be wrong on all accounts, of course.

Good thinking but the green one is in fact whole 3 cents cheaper at my parts source.
 
Good thinking but the green one is in fact whole 3 cents cheaper at my parts source.
No reason to give up a good theory just because it's wrong...
 
Y’all got me excited so I changed my PCV today using the all black (non-flex-fuel) version. Old one was gross and I also noticed some “phlegm” under my oil cap last change. Hopefully this cleans things up. And I wouldn’t mind an improvement in mileage but not cheating my hopes up yet.
 
What size socket? My tool drawer to 10 feet away from my trucko_O
 
22mm
 
Quick thanks!
 
Wow what a lively and lengthy conversation about a part that in many ways is often neglected and ignored. I'm definitely in the "change it often" group. This is what can happen if yours gets clogged:

View attachment 2519233

That was on my '11, it really gave me a good scare. I had all sorts of awful scenarios keeping me awake at night. I would clean that schmoo out, and in a few days it was back. Long trips made no difference. Oh boy.

Then on a whim I figured I'd try the PCV valve. Takes only a few minutes, I found a O2 sensor socket works really well. Took a few days to get all that crap out of the engine, but it totally went away. Phew!

Terrifying.
 
At the dealership getting an alignment so figured I'd buy the part from them as well instead of ordering
Wanted almost $20o_O
 
Went hunting for the PCV valve and believe I found it thanks to this thread under this foam insulation. How do you remove the foam insulation? It seems like it might just pull out but I was afraid I’d tear it when I was tugging on it.
AD9EFF72-D7F0-4782-97B9-667632CE2920.jpeg
 

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