Replace that PCV valve (1 Viewer)

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Dec 5, 2020
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With 10 years and 95K on my LX decided car is a keeper, it is time to catch up on what I neglected over the years. From rust cleaning on frame welds, POR15, Boeshield T9 and fluid film inside the frame, all fluids, complete brake job with new OEM calipers painted red (for the extra 10mph in top speed everyone promised), new spark plugs, MAF and throttle body cleaning and just for kicks decided to change the PCV valve because it was inexpensive and i needed something extra to get free shipping on my parts order.

Took me an hour to find it as it is hidden under the foam on the right side under the intake manifold and Service Manual calls for the manifold removal in order to replace it. That is not necessary as you can easily reach down with large socket after removing the hose and pushing insulating foam down.

Well my 2010 had the old style all black PCV valve which was either completely stuck or faulty (non rattle) design and new valve had a green top and distinctive rattle.

Well after all the maintenance I noticed significant improvement in gas mileage, I filled my tank with some premium (not to top it off) and 2 bottles of STP injector cleaner from Wally’s World (recommended by mechanic friend) and took my car for a 100 mile injector cleaning highway run. I normally run 87 in my truck as Premium is almost twice the price in IL. I did fill up with premium before (i do it every so often when I find good price across the state line) but never saw significant mpg jump from using premium alone.

I noticed significant improvement in my milage, I find on board CAN fuel gauge (trip computer) to be very accurate other than first 50 miles after fill-up when you top the tank off - (explains not to top it off above). My fuel usage before the trip was at 12.4 as car went thru a lot if driveway idling for all the maintenance.

As I took my vehicle for the ride my numbers started improving from good to impressive numbers I do not recall seeing before. I do not even remember seeing 18mpg on highway cruise. Usually I was in 17.4 17.8 range.

Well for the last 20 miles, cruise control at 70 mph or so I got the consumption to stabilize between 19.7 on the highway slight incline and 19.8 down. After getting off the highway my fuel computer registered 20mpg when I slowed down to 40 mph. I do not recall ever seeing 20 mpg on my trip computer.

I did a lot of maintenance and pins on my old calipers were stuck frozen from rust so it is indeed possible that my old brakes were dragging, one of the original spark plugs was under tourqed but I truly think faulty PCV valve was to blame for the poor gas mileage.

I credit the improvement to the new PCV valve. Either that or the red calipers. Another variable I also got new set of Michelin Defenders at Costco (replaced Continental Ecco-Plus) just before the 100 mile drive, new tires ARE nitrogen filled as that is what Costco does these days.

I suggest if have an older 200 with old black PCV valve - change it, you never know, that alone may put some extra ZIP in your car. It is inexpensive and easy change as long as you do not follow the factory service manual.

I soaked the old valve in parts cleaner for days and it still does not rattle like the new one does so I suspect faulty design - hence new and improved design of the new valve.:)

Also very happy with LED upgrades I researched on the site. Original halogens sucked due that “recall resistor” in line with light circuit.

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I was looking for the PCV yesterday. Thought it was in the hose next to the oil filler on top of the engine.
Got any pics of where the pcv is and what size socket fit?
 
Sure, found it on this site, see copy, must not remove the manifold (like in the photo) simply look for the short hose he is holding in his hand, follow it to the valve which is covered with small section of insulating foam but very accessible, truly 5-10 minute job if you have correct size (large) metric socket, size 22 mm If I recall correctly or in that neighborhood , kind of calls for long socket but I managed to do it with short socket by disconnecting it from the handle and gripping just 3-4 mm on top just enough to turn with my set, came out easy.

Good Luck!

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It is easy to access, just take off the engine noise cover. I can't remember for sure, but I think it might've been a 22mm deep socket.
 
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Remove that wheel lock lug nut and destroy it
I agree with you, hate that lock nut and are tired of it, tired looking for it as I was working on my car for over a month, one time almost drove off with the damn key still on wheel.

Unfortunately it was dealer item and I do not have the original lugs to replace the locks.
 
Those look like standard 100/200 series, Tundra/Sequoia lugs. Should be able to find 4 pretty easily.
 
Another vote to replace or at least check your PCV valve!

Here is my story:
Bought my 2011 LX570 from a Gentleman in Dallas Texas in September 2019 - mint truck CPO-ed in 2015 with about 139K Miles with great maintenance history and no accidents.

Among the things that were done to the truck was a bill for nearly $1400.00 for replacement of RMS at a private indy shop that specializes in Lexus / Toyota vehicles well known and regarded in town.
Hmmm... not very often you hear that, but since it was taken care of I had no issues.

Drove the new to me truck home and was very happy with it - flawless 1100k miles.
During the next 6 months debated buying a set of skid plates and finally settled on stage 4 of Bud built.
During installation process I found a bit of oil between the rear of engine and transmission and got worried a bit, but figured maybe residential stuff after the RMS replacement.

During summer We traveled to Ft Collins for LCDC and on the way back noticed a bit of smoke from the bottom of the engine / exhaust area at the truck stop - no bueno oil started seeping a bit more with high rpms and high speeds!

I kept an eye on the oil level thinking someone screwed up the RMS replacement and we made it home contemplating another RMS job.

Well not so fast:

This thread inspired me to look at the PCV valve and sure enough it was completely stuck and had a boat load of grime / oil on it as well as milky residue under the oil cap. Same was found under the hood of my 2008 Tundra Limited 5.7 !!

12204-38010 was the number of the new part and to Toyota dealer I went. The guy said he has 2 available in stock = Great!
Upon inspection it looks like the old part all black...but I have seen one with a green cap on line... let me see if the part was superseded said the guy = Comes back a few minutes later with the green cap part.

Ok so there is another PCV valve with another number - 12204-38030 (FLEX Fuel)

UPDATE: it is a part designed to work with Flex Fuel Engine systems - not asking anybody to use it but it works just like the original part.

The truck runs amazing and the oil leak had stopped as a result of relieving the pressure built up.
Currently waiting on my Amazon delivery of the second valve as the Dealer near me had only one of the new.

As always pics attached below for the entertainment purpose

Cheers!!
 
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Here you go:

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and a few more of the new part:

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Another vote to replace or at least check your PCV valve!

12204-38010 was the number of the new part and to Toyota dealer I went. The guy said he has 2 available in stock = Great!
Upon inspection it looks like the old part all black...but I have seen one with a green cap on line... let me see if there part was superseded said the guy = Comes back a few minutes later with the green cap part.

Ok so there is another PCV valve with another number - 12204-38030 and that is the part you should replace yours with !!

Just a note for LC200 owners:

The correct PCV Part Number for 2008-2020 LC200's is 12204-38010.

The 12204-38030 part is correct for 2009-2020 Tunda and Sequoia vehicles[with the 5.7L Flex Fuel engine], but NOT for Land Cruisers.

HTH

Edit to add:

Part Number 12204-38030 is for use in the Tundra and Sequoia 5.7L Flex Fuel engine.
Part Number 12204-38010 is for use in the Land Cruiser, Tundra and Sequoia 5.7L Gas engine.
 
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@gaijin Not going against your statement, but 12204-38010 part number was also the original and correct part number for my 2008 Tundra yet that part was changed to 1224-38030. There must have been a reason and given that both my trucks have seen failure of this particular part I will keep the new part in place - of course to each his own.
Again thank you for advice.
 
@gaijin Not going against your statement, but 12204-38010 part number was also the original and correct part number for my 2008 Tundra yet that part was changed to 1224-38030. There must have been a reason and given that both my trucks have seen failure of this particular part I will keep the new part in place - of course to each his own.
Again thank you for advice.

I don't doubt that's what the guy at the parts counter told you, but the documentation does not support that.

My research shows that 12204-38030 fits >2009 Tundra with the 5.7L Flex Fuel engine. 12204-38030 does not fit the 2008 Tundra because it was not available with that engine. The correct part number for the 5.7L Gas engine in the Tundra 2007-2020 is 12204-38010.

As far as the LC200 is concerned, since the Flex Fuel engine was never an option, the correct part number for the 5.7L Gas engine in the 2008-2020 Land Cruiser is 12204-38010.

In fact, I must add to what I posted above (I'll go back and edit) which was partially incorrect, as follows:

Part Number 12204-38030 is for use in the Tundra and Sequoia 5.7L Flex Fuel engine.
Part Number 12204-38010 is for use in the Land Cruiser, Tundra and Sequoia 5.7L Gas engine.

In hindsight, and having owned a 2010 Sequoia with the Flex Fuel engine, the green tip on 12204-38030 is a dead giveaway that it for use in a Flex Fuel engine.

I don't know about Lexus, but I would be very surprised if the 12204-38010 is really the part you should be using in your 5.7L Gas engine. Further, unless your Tundra is Flex Fuel, the it is also what you should be using in it as well.

Finally, I have uncovered no evidence that 12204-38030 is in any way an "upgrade" or "Superceded" part - simply (and clearly) that one is for the 5.7L Gas engine and the other is for the 5.7L Flex Fuel engine. So... IMHO, what your parts guy told you about 12204-38010 being superceded by 12204-38030 is simply incorrect - perhaps he was confused or unaware about the Flex Fuel vs. Gas engine requirements.

Here's a link to a Toyota dealer's web site that conveniently let's you play around with parts fitment if you're interested: Olathe Toyota Parts

HTH
 
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Pretty sure @gaijin is correct:
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Went to the source (lexus.com)

Shop Lexus Parts and Accessories Online shows 12204-38010 fits all LX570 with 5.7 and 12204-38030 fits 2009-2011 LX570 with 5.7. I have no skin in the game just double checking.

That being said, if I had a 2010 LX570 I would get the 12204-38010.

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So to summarize now we know the 1224-38030 is a part that works with Flex Fuel ready truck.
Can a flex Fuel truck still drive and function properly on traditional gas? - of course so the part fits and it will work.
Not trying to be difficult just logical and it sounds like the parts guy didn't quite do his homework... thank you to all for clarifying the issue.
I also made a change to my earlier comment about the updated part above.

The most important aspect of this lesson is still please check your PCV valve for proper function.

Cheers!
 
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The most important aspect of this lesson is still please check your PCV valve for proper function.

Cheers!

Absolutely! And thanks to @airdzi for bringing the subject up 👍 :cheers:
 
and a few more of the new part:

Very glad it is a success story, from your photos looks like some carbon deposits on your old valve.

Could be related to the position iPCV valve was stuck in. Likely you have carbon build up in your cylinders. You can pull one plug out and scope with snake camera. Some carbon is OK and common on Toyotas but excess of it is never a good thing. Either way if you do not do a lot of highway driving put some 93 octane (BP or Shell brand) in your truck and pour some injector cleaner in the tank, double the recommended dose and it is Italian tune-up time, take it for a long highway drive, warm up your engine, switch to S manual shifting, shift to maintain healthy 3000 rpm for 5-10 miles, high rpms help the the carbon cleanup, after 5-10 miles switch tranny back to drive (Auto) and cruise another 50 miles at lower rpms maintaining 65 mph plus, for the last 20 highway miles watch your fuel usage. You should notice improvement and better running vehicle as a result!

Repeat only if necessary! Your plugs may also be worth replacing as carbon and sod is never good on iridium tips.
 
Italian "tune up" is in my blood as I have done some rally racing in Europe in my youth - took care of all of it and the truck purrs like a little kitten ;)
 
The PCV is one of the most neglected, cheapest part, easier than an oil change part neglected in all vehicles. 93 octane is a waste in 200 motors. The compression is not high enough. Unless your 93 contains no ethanol and the 87 does contain it. If your using 87 @ 10% ethanol and the 93 at your station has no ethanol added you might see improved gas mileage. It is not the octane it is just the gas is not cut with corn waste. 93 vs 87 with no corn added the 87 should get you better mileage than 93.
 

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