Removing The Transfer Case (TC) (1 Viewer)

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@Romer can you add this to FAQ?
 
Thanks for the Write up. It has helped so far. Im trying to get my TC out right know. Iv got both drive shafts out, all 6 TC bolts out, everything is unplugged and the Cross frame brace is out. The TC is Loss and will move about 1/4 inch but will not come out any farther.

Am i missing something?

Thanks
 
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Thanks for the Write up. It has helped so far. Im trying to get my TC out right know. Iv got both drive shafts out, all 6 TC bolts out, everything is unplugged and the Cross frame brace is out. The TC is Loss and will move about 1/4 inch but will not come out any farther.

Am i missing something?

Thanks
Were you able to get your Tcase removed? Getting ready to start this job this weekend. Gonna change the High gear to get some gearing back.
 
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Once the jack/cradle are in place, tap the TC flange with a lead hammer to separate from the transmission. Once it separates a little, grab it and pull it off the transmission output shaft. This requires pulling the TC away from the transmission about 2 to 3-inches. Once off, remove any unconnected electrical connectors and lower the TC and slide from under the truck and enjoy your favorite cold beverage.

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Reinstall in the reverse order. With the TC out, this is a good time to clean up your wiring harnesses. Mine were trashed and I replace the sheathing on everything I could reach. I also cleaned the underside of the truck so I can more easily spot future leaks.

TIME:

It took me about 2-1/2 hours to completely remove the TC. But, I had to figure it out as I went along and had to weld up my cradle which took a little time too. I think I could shave an hour off the time in the future, which is not bad overall. With a buddy helping, this would be a pretty quick job. A lot of time is wasted climbing in and out from under the truck and extra set of hands would be a huge help in time savings.

MISC:

I replaced the input and output shaft seals and the transmission output seal. The front was not leaking but I did it while I had it apart. There are several posts on the doing the rear output seal. The front seal is basically the same. The snap rings/c-clips are a major PITA. You will become and expert by the time you are done. Get yourself one or two pair of good snap ring/c-clip pliers, it can't be done without them. Also, the front cannot be done without a press, bearing splitter and bearing pullers. I had to pull the drive clutch hub, press the shaft off the bearing, and had to press the shaft back onto the bearing and press the drive clutch hub on as well. I also replaced the dust seals and found I could not tap them on with a hammer. So I used the press for this as well. None of this is difficult (except for the c-clips) you just need the right tools. Also, if you do the front output shaft, make sure that you lock the center diff before you remove the TC. This is necessary because it is difficult to fully seat the front output shaft in the clutch sleeve unless it is in the locked position.
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Do you have the p/n for the transmission output seal?

edit: nevermind. I should learn to read.
 
For folks that removed the transfer case to replace the transmission output seal how did it go? Mine is leaking transmission fluid between the transmission and transfer case. Any other "while you are in there" seals to replace?
 
I pulled mine to change out the low range gears. Not a bad job at all, if you have a transmission jack. I borrowed a buddies HF cheapie, it did the job. As for the while your in there, the TC output seals, and the TC input seal are all that are really left. The output seals require a fair amount of disassembly, FYI.
 
Nice write up. Sub’d for a rainy day.
 
Hello everyone. I just removed my TC but forgot to lock the CDL. im i going to have a very hard time trying to get this together again? any words of wisdom?

thank you
 
Hello everyone. I just removed my TC but forgot to lock the CDL. im i going to have a very hard time trying to get this together again? any words of wisdom?

thank you
Never mind, looks like this is only necessary of im disassembling and changing seals, please confirm, thanks
 
Never mind, looks like this is only necessary of im disassembling and changing seals, please confirm, thanks
Its makes no difference on locking the CDL.

The ones that must be locked before disassembly is the factory front and rear differential.
 
Never mind, looks like this is only necessary of im disassembling and changing seals, please confirm, thanks

If you do the front output shaft seal, you will want to lock the center diff. This is necessary because it is difficult to fully seat the front output shaft in the clutch sleeve unless it is in the locked position.
 
another quick question, im dropping the transmission as well, i already dropped the transfer, but now that i have, im tempted to put them together on the floor and then sliding the trans+TC into the engine.

any advantage or disadvantage of doing it this way? or should i just stick to putting the transmission in first and then put the TC on.

Thanks a lot
 
another quick question, im dropping the transmission as well, i already dropped the transfer, but now that i have, im tempted to put them together on the floor and then sliding the trans+TC into the engine.

any advantage or disadvantage of doing it this way? or should i just stick to putting the transmission in first and then put the TC on.

Thanks a lot

I did the engine+transmission together as one but before bolting everything in, I added the transfer case while it was all angled downward. IF you put in the cross member you will need to remove it and tilt the drivetrain down about 2" anyway t make room to mount the TC but I dont think I would do it all together.

Has anyone figured out what tor torque spec is for the TC to trans? I just hand tightened them but no idea
 
Dropping the tc tonight. Just to make absolutely sure, the correct orientation when starting is having the tc in low range (for locked center diff) and the transmission in neutral correct? That will allow for not having to do any reindexing etc.
 
Dropping the tc tonight. Just to make absolutely sure, the correct orientation when starting is having the tc in low range (for locked center diff) and the transmission in neutral correct? That will allow for not having to do any reindexing etc.

I just dropped it with everything in neutral. No indexing.
 
Did you do the front output seal? I was referring to FZJ’s post in this thread that mentioned it was difficult to fully seat the front output shaft in the clutch sleeve unless it is in the locked position.
 

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