Removing The Transfer Case (TC)
- Thread starter 1FZj80
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Only bolt that gave me an issue was #6 it was torqued very tight, I have a shallow 17mm wobble socket and didn’t need to drop the T-case.
Cradle was $60 from a local fab shop
I would make the 3” measurement 4-5” instead to allow the crossmember to drop easier
Cradle was $60 from a local fab shop
I would make the 3” measurement 4-5” instead to allow the crossmember to drop easier
Bolt #5 is giving me a hell of a fight. Wobble, extension, and just about every different combination of 17mm sockets I have and I can't seem to get it to move. Haven't dropped the trans support yet... maybe that'll help. I will have to do that for #6 for sure. No room to squeeze a tool in between tcase and floorboard.
I dropped the support to lower everything a couple of inches. I used a swivel socket.
strange, I loosened my #5/#6 bolts with ease and without lowering. My old T-Case isolator must have been truly collapsed. Think I used a fixed shallow socket with two extensions and a wobble, 3/4" drive, Try PB blaster for a few days (providing you can spray up in there)
Dropping the tail end of the transmission will make your life much easier. So would Toyota having put AT LEAST ONE FLAT SPOT on the bottom of that transfer case! Sheesh.
That cradle is pretty much what I fabbed up when I did mine. Lifesaver.
That cradle is pretty much what I fabbed up when I did mine. Lifesaver.
Well dropping the trans crossmember made things a whole lot easier. Also bought a wobble extension vs my Ujoint one. Worked better. Got the old one out and popped the new one in (part time kit, sumo over/under gears, all new seals and bearings) you can see my homemade tcase cradle. Worked really well for some scrap I had around the yard.
That looks suspiciously like my cradle. Are you stalking me?
I need to fab a real one, one of these days. FWIW, contrary to an earlier post above the transfer assy does not weigh 250 lbs. It weighs 169 lbs. The transmission weighs 280 lbs.
Those are advertised weights, but I deadlifted my transmission and it was nowhere near 300 lbs. The transfer case felt like 100 lbs. So take those weights with a grain of salt.
I need to fab a real one, one of these days. FWIW, contrary to an earlier post above the transfer assy does not weigh 250 lbs. It weighs 169 lbs. The transmission weighs 280 lbs.
Those are advertised weights, but I deadlifted my transmission and it was nowhere near 300 lbs. The transfer case felt like 100 lbs. So take those weights with a grain of salt.
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How does one remove this plate without damaging it if it does not have the threads for walking it out? It appears my cruiser is one of the earlier models that was not blessed with that feature.
Dang - so it was removable by hand? Mine is quite snug. I tried long reach needle nose plyers wrapped in electrical tape on opposing ridges but could only get it to minimally budge. Was thinking the same with some vise grip style, but getting the vise grip handle into the house is quite challenging. Could only get my smaller pair in there.
Got it out using the method I mentioned above. And would appear I was able to get it out without damaging too 
Got the vise style needle nose and the long handle needle nose on opposing ridges and it worked out well with some light scuffs on the ridges themselves as the only apparent damage.
Will definitely be tapping these now that the plate is out
Got the vise style needle nose and the long handle needle nose on opposing ridges and it worked out well with some light scuffs on the ridges themselves as the only apparent damage.
Will definitely be tapping these now that the plate is out
Can not for the life of me get #5 out. normal UV joint style socket setup wont work. No space. Looking to get a 17mm swivel socket. Otherwise any suggestions?
Yes, that one was a bear to get out. I soaked all bolts in penetrant, Used short swivel socket, and a wobble extension on a 1/2in impact. However, there was a point where I have to remove the socket because it would bind and pin the bolt in place. So threaded it back in loose, then removed the socket, and ever so slowly removed it by hand.
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Based on your profile name I get the sense you’re not stateside so Harbor freight is not an option for you, but this is the set I used (as per the above)
Another Mud member posted that it's a good idea to put your transmission in neutral before you lower the trans/TC assembly and detach the TC, to avoid stressing the cable that controls shifting. I think that's important and often overlooked.
Interesting, I know I did not do that. Noted for next time
Nope not stateside. I'll see what I can find here in Australia that's similar.
Drop the trans crossmember, it’ll lower the whole assembly 3-4 inches and give you the access you need.
Thanks. Was planning to do that for the one at the top that you can't see. I've found a used TC so will need to get the old one out now for sure. Internals are toast.