Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off

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You might want to pop that floor pan lip from under the inner rocker, mine was LOADED with rust.

What does that section look like between the rockers on the underside?
 
You might want to pop that floor pan lip from under the inner rocker, mine was LOADED with rust.

What does that section look like between the rockers on the underside?

Originally I thought we would need to but it is turning out alot cleaner than we originally thought. Rockers should be opened up next but floor feels solid and clean where it meets the outer rocker. The PO did this truck a huge favor by breaking it and letting it sit for 20 years.
 
Why didn't you use the whole floor pan patch? You are replacing the rocker too, right? Or was that the passenger side.........
 
Why didn't you use the whole floor pan patch? You are replacing the rocker too, right? Or was that the passenger side.........

Both rockers might be replaced. (I am leaning that way) We bought them and the other panels to eliminate downtime for waiting on parts.

In regards to the floor, we are working by Ryan's recomendation on what neeeds to be replaced and what doesnt. The floor is solid with the exception of where the front of the aftermarket roll bar sat. There might be slight pitting after media blasting but still strong. As of right now, all of the horizontal floor surfaces will have raptorliner on them.
 
I cut my whole floor pan out, it was cracked where the drivers seat bracket was mounted. I figured the new steel was in better shape than the old, so I cut the whole 9 yards.
 
I cut my whole floor pan out, it was cracked where the drivers seat bracket was mounted. I figured the new steel was in better shape than the old, so I cut the whole 9 yards.

The older style bench drivers seat rests on the toolbox lid and spreads the weight across the floor. Are you going to make any mods to where the seats mount to make it stronger, or wait 40 years and see how the new steel holds?
 
Mine doesn't have a toolbox under the seat, but once I get new seats I may try to move the front leg right on top of the support underneath that the body mount bolts to. That will be WAY down the road, I'm planning on the Procar Lumbar series. Right now I still have an OEM set that I will be using until I get to the seat swap stage. I am always looking on Craigslist for deals though. There is also the thought of adding a full cage and incorporating a seat bracket into it.
 
Quarters are in.

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Did you guys cut the new quarters? Or do they not come bent to cover the entire rear section?

Quarters were cut. We only needed the curve on drivers side and wheel wells. Full quarter was same price as the wheel well patches and curves. Because the tub is clean and we are paying hourly we elected to stay away from the hinges to save on relocating hinge and badge holes. This tub is one of the cleanest that I have seen in OH.
 
Yeah, I just went back a page and read that. I was looking at the KBS stuff today online, pretty pricey. The eastwood stuff is about half the price, cans are a little bigger with KBS.
 
Yeah, I just went back a page and read that. I was looking at the KBS stuff today online, pretty pricey. The eastwood stuff is about half the price, cans are a little bigger with KBS.

I ran up to auto supply to grab something while he had the ends exposed. KBS is pretty expensive. Seems to go a long way.
 
Last week we pulled the 40 from the body shop because they missed their time estimate by more than 3 days and could not provide us with any estimate on what it was going to take to get it ready for primer/paint.

After taking a deep breath, my dad and I have decided to replace the entire drivers side floor pan and outer rockers. I have a few leads on body guys that we will talk to in the next few weeks. If that doesn't pan out, shopping for a mig welder will go on my to do list.

Prior to any other bodywork, I have to get the front clip, hardtop and doors mocked up to eliminate any surprises. Thanks to @SouthBostonFJ40 for the door bushings and @Racer65 for the windshield frame gasket.

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These things are sent to try us. I was in a similar position - I figured I could do better work than the work I was paying through the nose to have done by an expert - so I bought a little Chinese welder and never looked back. I was a bit worried that a cheap welder would not make the grade but, I now have workshop space in a panel shop and although they have a big fancy welder with gas etc, the guys have discovered the "Chinaman" and are constantly borrowing it. They claim it is nicer to work with than the big one...

I did the floors and inner and outer rockers on mine. Lessons learnt that may help you:

I found the best way to do it was to do the outer rocker first.

Then cut out the inner rocker.

Then cut out the floor part.

Then instal the new floor section all the way to the outer rocker.

Then instal the new inner rocker.

I "discovered" button welds for welding the panels together only after doing one side. (Thanks to Mud)

For the second side I drilled all the holes in the panels and then welded them in. Much quicker and neater than stitch welding the plates together.

Doing those patches was probably the most rewarding part of the work on mine so far.

Go for it!
 
Awesome thread! I don't know how I missed, well yes I know I'm busy on my 83' troopy resto. And when I have a few mins I follow my thread and not lurking much.. keep on the great work you setting examples of how someone who is not a mechanix can do a job million times better.
 
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