Removing rivets

[Spook50]

I want to design a front bumper for my 62 this summer, and I plan to integrate the bumper mounts into the design so it bolts directly to the frame. The stock bumper's mounts are riveted to the frame, and since I'll be pulling my bumper off alot to test fit templates and whatnot, I want to be able to remove and install it easily, so I plan to remove the rivets that hold the mounts to the frame and replace them with grade 8 bolts. What method would you guys suggest for rivets? I've thought of torching them off, but could that affect the strength of the steel in the immediate area of the holes in the frame? Drilling seems like an option, but those things look pretty damn stout.

 

[Dynosoar]

I would torch them oxy/acetalene works wonders. If your realy concened about heat take a big angle grinder cut of the heads and wack em with a BFH.

Dynosoar

 

[Spook50]

I would torch them oxy/acetalene works wonders. If your realy concened about heat take a big angle grinder cut of the heads and wack em with a BFH.

Dynosoar

I've got nothing in the immediate area that's sensetive to heat (the wiring for my fog lights can easily be removed), but I'm admittedly ignorant to how much heat it takes to weaken the steel used for our frames. Since it'll have to stand up to winching loads once the bumper is installed, I don't want to take any risks if there's a chance the heat from the torch (which is oxy/acetalene) could create weak points in the steel.

 

[trimmertrail]

I had bumpers make for my cruiser about 4 years ago....the guy who made them torched the old brackets off...I have yet to have problems with them. I use grade 8 hw. three on each side....One time I got stuck on an incline with my hood against a tree,my buddy cracked jokes about my bumper holding up,chain,etc......when he yanked me........tore his bumper clean off...lol.....I've even made a lego repreduction of the mishap

 

[Spook50]

I had bumpers make for my cruiser about 4 years ago....the guy who made them torched the old brackets off...I have yet to have problems with them. I use grade 8 hw. three on each side....One time I got stuck on an incline with my hood against a tree,my buddy cracked jokes about my bumper holding up,chain,etc......when he yanked me........tore his bumper clean off...lol.....I've even made a lego repreduction of the mishap

Well my problem is that I need to be able to remove the bumper and mounts for while I'm fitting templates, and then put it all back on when I'm done for the day. I'm planning on taking quite a while to get it all done, so I can't just yank the bumper permanentally until the new bumper's complete and ready to be installed.

 

[dogboy2]

What method would you guys suggest for rivets? Drilling seems like an option, but those things look pretty damn stout.

Spook,

Grab yourself an air powered impact chisel and have at it. Use a flat bladed bit or one with a v-notch in it, place it parallel to your frame rails at a right angle to your rivet heads, and try to work the blade of the bit under the head of the rivet. It will peel the heads of those rivets off at which point you will be able to drive out the remaining shaft with a punch and hammer.

Air chisels can be had for cheap - around $20-$25.00. If you've got a Tacoma Screw in Spokane, they've got a decent, inexpensive one that will meet your needs just fine.

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

 

[dogboy2]

one more, Tacoma Screw is a great source for your metric hardware needs as well....

-db-

 

[Spook50]

Spook,

Grab yourself an air powered impact chisel and have at it. Use a flat bladed bit or one with a v-notch in it, place it parallel to your frame rails at a right angle to your rivet heads, and try to work the blade of the bit under the head of the rivet. It will peel the heads of those rivets off at which point you will be able to drive out the remaining shaft with a punch and hammer.

Air chisels can be had for cheap - around $20-$25.00. If you've got a Tacoma Screw in Spokane, they've got a decent, inexpensive one that will meet your needs just fine.

-dogboy- '87 FJ60

OOOOOHH good idea. I think they have one at the auto shop here too.

 

[2mbb]

I had the rivets on my front bumperetts burned off with an oxy-acetylene torch. I took it into a muffler shop, paid the guy about 20 bucks and it took him all of 10 minutes.

When Luke at 4x4 labs built my rear bumper he removed the rear crossmember. He removed the rivets with a plasma cutter.

Since the steel used for the frame is mild steel (not heat treated) I don't think that you will effect the strength of the steel with heat.

 

[Tinker]

I used a long, high-speed steel bit in a big, 1/2" drill. Use cutting oil liberally while drilling - it speeds the process & saves the bit. Then I ground off the remainder of the heads & punched the rivets out using the air chisel & a pointy tip.

My rears are held with (5) 1/2" grade 8 bolts with thick washers (no G8 lockwashers, just red Loctite) per side. Fronts have 4 each. Couldn't find torque specs so I tightened one by hand untill I broke it, then just tightened the rest nearly as much. The bumper's aren't going anywhere.

 

[Cruzerman]

If your tool poor (no torch, plasma cutter, etc.), I've taken off many rivets with a drill. Just used a small bit to make a pilot hole, and worked up. Steel is mild, so it is quick. Once you get close to the hole size, a couple of whacks with a hammer will pop ir right out. Very clean way to go.

_________________
Cruzerman
'85 FJ60
'78 FJ40

 

[brian]

i 2nd the air chisel, but you need to use care. with a good bit/chisel you can easily take a chunk out of the frame, when they start digging they go.
those rivets are pretty soft, if you're in to it you just take a hammer and the flat chisel and pop them off.
the grinder, a punch and a hammer works just as well.
the torch is just over kill for rivets.

 

[scubasteve]

Grind the rivet head or buck tail off with a grinder or highspeed cutter. I then used a 7X rivet gun with a punch and knocked out the rivet. Its easier when you have access to tools. You can try drilling them out, but drill slow and strait and try not to elongate the holes. Drill as slow as possible and use a cutting lube so you don't burn up the drill bits. If you can get your hands on 5/16" or 3/8" clecos, you then can fit the bumper and adjust and remove in seconds. Clecos can be found at any aviation tooling website.

 

[land crusher]

I always take rivets out by grinding off the head and punching them out.

 

[wantatlc]

I just took off 8 rivetts a few days ago to put on a new channel for my Bikini top as the PO used rivetts to attach versus metal screws.

anyway, I did it clean and easy by drilling into the rivett hole with about a 1 size bigger drill bit than the hole to thin the material out and then I came back with a nice clean chisel at about a 45 angel and poped the heads right off like butter. worked like a charm and minimal impact on sorrunding area (versus using a grinder for example).

 

[ColoradoLC]

I just did mine a week ago too for my new bumper. I ended up having to grind them off on both sides, then going the drill route. Mine were still tough to get out, so I ended up having to whack the remainder of the rivets out with a BFH and a crowbar.

Good luck to you though.

 

[notatreehugger]

like dogboy said...air chisel be good or so would a drill. Drill might hang up, break arm or dislocate shoulder. Active duty might be tough that way...use the chisel......send me some picks of what you do, I might want to purchase one. I would really like to have a rear with a swing away spare tire holder. Looking, because I can stick a stick, but can't draw a bead with a pencil.

jasonrose6@mchsi.com

 

[Spook50]

like dogboy said...air chisel be good or so would a drill. Drill might hang up, break arm or dislocate shoulder. Active duty might be tough that way...use the chisel......send me some picks of what you do, I might want to purchase one. I would really like to have a rear with a swing away spare tire holder. Looking, because I can stick a stick, but can't draw a bead with a pencil.

jasonrose6@mchsi.com

I'm going to try the chisel route and see how clean I can do the job. I've got all options available to me so if I bugger one up, I can try the next method. I'll work on the design for the front bumper first since that'll be the most difficult what with mounting a winch and figuring out where my stress points will be when winching. It's pretty likely I'll have to buy the winch first (or find specs somewhere) so I can measure and design around it.

I'd love to integrate turn signals as well, but I don't see how I could protect them very well at this point. If the front bumper project goes well I'll tackle a rear tow bumper somewhere along the lines of the 4x4 Labs design, with swing out tire carrier and dual jerry can carrier (both locking, so I won't have to worry about people swiping my s***).

 

[Tinker]

Spook -
Both my bumpers have 3 receivers each - middle for hitch (obviously) & outer 2 for mounting plow (in front) & winch carrier (both ends). Rear has shackle mounts in line with the frame.

I stole the double-ended winch idea from one of my customers with a CJ - he said most often the easiest way out is the way you got in.

 

[Rig of Mortis]

I plan to remove the rivets that hold the mounts to the frame and replace them with grade 8 bolts.

Grade 5 bolts have a higher shear factor.