Remove lower control arm on-frame No. 2 Bushing: dimensions and parts to do it are attached (2 Viewers)

[shtbrwn86]

It certainly does.

I used a jack to put enough pressure on the LCA to start lifting the vehicle and then tightened the bolts on mine.

But I had to drive a couple of tapered punches into the slot of the TB mount to hold the head of the bolt while I tightened to spec.

Did not have a wrench that would fit in that small space and likely would have never gotten it out if had one. Punches kept the bolt head from turning and then tapped out with a hammer.

I read that you did this in another thread. The tapered punches were my plan all along too.

When you say you started lifting the vehicle with a jack on the control arms and tightened the bolts, are you talking about the two big bolts for the control arm or the two bolts for the torsion bar torque arm?

 

[Bisho]

I read that you did this in another thread. The tapered punches were my plan all along too.

When you say you started lifting the vehicle with a jack on the control arms and tightened the bolts, are you talking about the two big bolts for the control arm or the two bolts for the torsion bar torque arm?

I wasn't jacking the vehicle (I have a lift). I was jacking the LCA up from drooping all the way down to the normal ride height.

The LCA bolts. I didn't have the TBs connected so I could access the rear bolt.

 

[OwnerCS]

When I initially replaced the bushings the truck was not lifted. After raising the ride height 2" I had the bolts retorqued at the new ride height.

 

[flintknapper]

I read that you did this in another thread. The tapered punches were my plan all along too.

When you say you started lifting the vehicle with a jack on the control arms and tightened the bolts, are you talking about the two big bolts for the control arm or the two bolts for the torsion bar torque arm?

Control Arm. One of them ends up being covered by the T/B mount.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Well I finally got all four arms replaced. Can’t even imagine doing this job if I was pressing the bushings and ball joints as well. Now I just need to tighten everything up.

next question though... my passenger side cv boot is straight up torn all around the shaft. I know I need a new boot at least but I’m leaning towards an entire new axle rather than rebuild.

question is am I shooting myself in the foot by not replacing it while the control arms and tie rod ends aren’t tightened down? At this point it would be pretty easy to take off the knuckle I guess.

on the other hand I’d also like to get the suspension dialed in before replacing an axle. Thoughts?

 

[shtbrwn86]

And here are some shots of the ball joints. Scary sh*t!!! this is at 250k with 246 of those miles all pavement and garage kept in Arizona. The boots on the uppers almost fell apart when I removed them.

 

[flintknapper]

^^^^^

Is the axle spline to drive flange fit still good?

 

[flintknapper]

And here are some shots of the ball joints. Scary sh*t!!! this is at 250k with 246 of those miles all pavement and garage kept in Arizona. The boots on the uppers almost fell apart when I removed them.


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Dang........!

 

[abuck99]

That’s pretty old grease- if there any left in the tulip, your axle “innards” might not be in the best condition. I’d wait to button it up and pull the axle, inspect and replace the boot or axle now while it’s all torn down- saves you doing preload on bearing 2x, and some other work.

 

[2001LC]

It easier and save time, to R&R while knuckle off. If FDS passes inspection, re-boot it. But new FDS with new hub flanges are so sweet!

Old FDS, worn out from improper wheel bearing service

New FDS axle splines

 

[shtbrwn86]

That’s pretty old grease- if there any left in the tulip, your axle “innards” might not be in the best condition. I’d wait to button it up and pull the axle, inspect and replace the boot or axle now while it’s all torn down- saves you doing preload on bearing 2x, and some other work.

I also wonder what the inners are like. I do think the tear may be recent though. Shortly after I got it the LX I proceeded to do some mild off-roading but I had it lifted with the AHC for a few hundred miles on some bumpy roads.

One thing I did notice on my last trip (last time it was driven) was a noticeable vibration at freeway speeds. Not sure if a failing axle could cause that.

 

[super90]

I didn't have time to tackle this project and had to sub it out to my indy who is a Toyota master mechanic. He used the bushing removal kit I bought and said it worked very well. No issues. The one I purchased is similar to this:

Amazon Link to Bushing Tool

Note that my bushing was not as rusted as others:

 

[daohaus]

And here are some shots of the ball joints. Scary sh*t!!! this is at 250k with 246 of those miles all pavement and garage kept in Arizona. The boots on the uppers almost fell apart when I removed them.


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This is how mine looked as well on both sides. SoCal car all is life too

 

[shtbrwn86]

This is how mine looked as well on Botha sides. SoCal car all is life to

Ditto on a rust free 99 from Arizona

 

[2001LC]

What do you guys think about extra spacers in No. 2 frame bushing LCA. ???

I just did another set of OEM No. 2 frame bushing with my custom made drift pressing tool, and installed a set of new OEM LCA's. Tool worked great. I couldn't be happier with fitment.

I did run into something, I've not seen before with fitment of LCA with only one spacer in:

Which was, on one side (LH). The LCA did not want to fit. I had to put a great deal of pressure on the rubber within the bushing of No. 2 and No. 1 of LCA. So much pressure it cause the rubber within bushing, to be stretched forward about 5mm to 7mm.

So I pressed the No. 2 bushing back out, and installed a second spacer. But found I was still forcing LCA in and again stretching rubber within bushings, just not much. Certainly not the relaxed fit, I normally see. So I decided to press out the No. 2 bushing again and add a third spacer. Now with 3 spacer, LCA fit relaxed with no forcing it in. I do still see about 1.8mm gap (pre torque in) between front LCA bushing and frame.

These 3 spacer, now yields 6.24mm spacing out of bushing from frame, vs 1 spacer yielding about 2.07mm.

Notes:
Each spacer is ~2.07mm, 2X ~4.15mm, 3x ~6.24mm
Wide part of bushing sleeve extends in frame (has depth of) ~17mm. 1 spacer ~14.93m inserted, 2 spacer ~12.85 inserted, 3 spacer ~10.77mm inserted into frame.

Vehicle has always pulled right. (not yet tested with new LCA).
Has SPC UCA and UBJ.
Rear adjustable control arms lower and lateral.
Has had rear and front alignment done, trying stop from pulling right (did not), prior to these new LCA and bushing.
No record of accident in car fax. But did go off HWY at 50MPH into snow bank. (pulled right before and after this)

 

[abuck99]

3shims is not customary as you know and no one seems to have ever mentioned needing more than 1- although parts schematic shows 2 but there’s no reference whatsoever to count in FSM.

Possible that Frame or LCA perch is bent from 50mph get off into snow, it’s a lot of concentrated force when that happens. Depends on if it was a snow plowed bank of hard snow or powder.

Aligning rear axle to correct front end pull seems like a lazy kind of workaround for some type of greater problem. Even with adjustable link arms aligning rear axle is challenging, need the right tool (monkey on a stick tool) and very few alignment shops have one or know what one is- or might take the time to remove and adjust rear link arms.

The before and after alignment specs would be good to review. Cross Camber and SAI data should reveal if wheels are crabbing from frame alignment issue.

Need more data

 

[2001LC]

3shims is not customary as you know and no one seems to have ever mentioned needing more than 1- although parts schematic shows 2 but there’s no reference whatsoever to count in FSM.

Possible that Frame or LCA perch is bent from 50mph get off into snow, it’s a lot of concentrated force when that happens. Depends on if it was a snow plowed bank of hard snow or powder.

Aligning rear axle to correct front end pull seems like a lazy kind of workaround for some type of greater problem. Even with adjustable link arms aligning rear axle is challenging, need the right tool (monkey on a stick tool) and very few alignment shops have one or know what one is- or might take the time to remove and adjust rear link arms.

The before and after alignment specs would be good to review. Cross Camber and SAI data should reveal if wheels are crabbing from frame alignment issue.

Need more data

Yeah, I too look at 00 and 07 FSM, TIS & Toyota course/school. No mention or diagrams even showing a spacer, anywhere I looked.

I should probable get some measurement of old & new LCA.

Frame IDK. If frame or LCA hit/bent. I'd think, both brackets of frame would move moved in unison, in a front impact. Also I did not notice any signs of frontal impact. I did see hit to gas tank skid inner and other (RH) side of rear propeller shaft (AKA rear drive shaft). Apparently had to have propeller reworked as was damaged. Other that clean looking rig.

H ere's videos I made as doing the job. 1, 2, and then 3rd spacer.
1 spacer:

2 spacers:

 

[2001LC]

3rd spacer in LCA No. 2 bushing. Now very relaxed fitment, not push rubber of bushings forward. But bushing looks strange protruding so far out. What do you builders think. Leave the 3 or pull one out?

 

[OwnerCS]

I used a big socket or metal cup that rested against the busing face rim to press it in from the front without touching or applying any force to the rubber part of the bushing.

How many people release the bushings so the bushing splines will reorient in a natural resting position after lifting the vehicle height 2" and retorque at the new height?

I think it gives a touch of smoothness after a lift and keeps the bushings from riding in an unnatural binding position.

 

[2001LC]

I used a big socket or metal cup that rested against the busing face rim to press it in from the front without touching or applying any force to the rubber part of the bushing.

How many people release the bushings so the bushing splines will reorient in a natural resting position after lifting the vehicle height 2" and retorque at the new height?

I think it gives a touch of smoothness after a lift and keeps the bushings from riding in an unnatural binding position.

Yeah, I also use cup from press kit. Pressing only on metal rim of bushing. I use a receiver cup also. After, I've orient/clock the bushing in the frame, once I've removing the rubber cap from the bushing. Many miss "clocking" these and front diff bushing.

Yeah this one I'm doing, by looks of old bushings and nuts and bolts, installer did not loosen bushing bolts and re-torque once laden. Not re-torquing may result to early failure.

One of the biggest PITA of the job, which I need a solution for in future jobs. Is torquing nuts once laden (tires on ground and T-bar set). Because getting a 1/2" or 3/4" torque wrench on the bushing nuts of bolts to torque to 170ft-lbf, I've just to little room to swing the wrench. I'm thinking about using drive on ramps.

BTW: I torque all 8 (LCA bushings, shocks lowers and links bolts), once laden.