shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
That pep boys socket isn’t going to work it’s the exact same size as the other 35mm socket I was using. Ugh. Hoping to meet up tomorrow with the local guy who made a push tool for me.
Remove lower control arm on-frame No. 2 Bushing: dimensions and parts to do it are attached
- Thread starter ccasey
- Start date
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Do you have one of the new tech grinding stones on your bench grinder. Which are designed for all side use, and handle harden steel?
It has been my understanding, to never use sides of grinding stone. Doing so can cause stone to crack. With the high RPM speed of most bench girders. A cracked grinding stone can become a grenade, sending chucks in all direction. Or am I wrong?
Shop safety as you said, is important!
If OD diameter good, it should work.
One issue you may have with this slug tool, is alignment. As you start pressing, you'll first build pressure at center core bushing on tool as it lacks opening/hole to compensate for protrusion of core of bushing. If not lined up perfect, as it come up to outer cup of bushing, it may take some tapping on side of slug with a steel hammer to align. Or you could cut out core removing, and start press slug dead on bushing.
You'll also need and extra ~1 or 2" in receive cup, as core will press out further in receiver cup.
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Anyone successfully used one of these kits? I'm rebuilding a spare set of stock lower a-arms and want to tackle the frame bushing as well.
I tried it. It seemed to have the correct sized pieces for the job but mine was just too rusty. I ended up using an air chisel.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I plan on cutting the center core out first! And I have a large cup in the form of a large socket. I hope I can meet up with this guy today. Haven’t heard from him in a few days....
1" thick Zirconia Alumina wheel. Tough Stuff. Not your $3.99 Harbor Freight parking lot sale item. Expect to pay $60.00-$75.00 but they last a long time and will take a lot of pressure.
Still.....as stated, it is generally not good practice to apply axial pressure to a grinding wheel, for safety reasons. That is what I DID with my equipment. I also sharpen chisels, scrapers, etc....along side the wheel I have. AGAIN....not recommending this!
But yes, using light pressure.... I ground down the lip of a socket (for another project than this) on the wheel of my bench grinder. NOT a 'how to' or suggestion for others. So everyone....use your best judgement.
Government might come and see me about this next thing....but I freely admit to removing the 'tags' from pillows and mattresses I own. Just don't like them. Probably burn in hell for it.....who knows, but that's me.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
And there you have it. This is a bushing from a garage kept 99 LX with 250k! With the right slug this is a really easy job!
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Does it matter what I use to grease the new bushing with for install? I’ve got a tub of valvoline synthetic blend grease for wheel bearings?
Any grease....but Yes Sir, grease it. Any excess will squeeze out and just leave a small coating to prevent rust. The bushing is slightly tapered and will hand fit in the first 1/3 way. DO use the press to install it as well, don't hammer it in. Look to see IF you had a spacer on yours. Some do some don't.
GOOD JOB!
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Thank you! I do have a spacer on mine so I will be reusing it.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
delete
Blown away with the price dealership just quoted me on parts alone for the:
•LCA bushings frame (x2)
•LCA bushings arm (x2)
•UCA bushings (x4)
•LCA bushing frame spacer (x2)
Looked them all up at partsouq.com and went for the substitute non-toyota oem parts and ended at $117 shipping and tax included. Carmarka.com replied with my inquiry saying they don’t have stock of the parts I inquired.
Will share this project soon.
•LCA bushings frame (x2)
•LCA bushings arm (x2)
•UCA bushings (x4)
•LCA bushing frame spacer (x2)
Looked them all up at partsouq.com and went for the substitute non-toyota oem parts and ended at $117 shipping and tax included. Carmarka.com replied with my inquiry saying they don’t have stock of the parts I inquired.
Will share this project soon.
I replaced these bushings a few months back when I swapped in new LCAs (ended up using toyota parts, but I'm curious if Beck-Arnley is OE supplier based off of what I found here ).
I had the right size mandrel but I had no luck pressing out the metal sleeve on the original bushings (my truck has almost 350K on it and these were the original parts so the metal sleeves were essentially rust-bonded to the subframe holes).
So I used the alternate method I've used on a number of vehicles
. I used a torch to de-bond the rubber from the sleeve then pushed the rubber out. Then used a sawzall to cut a slit in the inside of the metal bushing sleeve (don't need to break all the way through), then use an air chisel to break the sleeve and drive it out. Works every time and is super easy, each one out in ~10 min including torch time.
The spacer/washers on the bushings are to ensure the mount points in the subframe line up with the spacing on the LCA.
I had the right size mandrel but I had no luck pressing out the metal sleeve on the original bushings (my truck has almost 350K on it and these were the original parts so the metal sleeves were essentially rust-bonded to the subframe holes).
So I used the alternate method I've used on a number of vehicles
. I used a torch to de-bond the rubber from the sleeve then pushed the rubber out. Then used a sawzall to cut a slit in the inside of the metal bushing sleeve (don't need to break all the way through), then use an air chisel to break the sleeve and drive it out. Works every time and is super easy, each one out in ~10 min including torch time.The spacer/washers on the bushings are to ensure the mount points in the subframe line up with the spacing on the LCA.
I replaced these bushings a few months back when I swapped in new LCAs (ended up using toyota parts, but I'm curious if Beck-Arnley is OE supplier based off of what I found here ).
I had the right size mandrel but I had no luck pressing out the metal sleeve on the original bushings (my truck has almost 350K on it and these were the original parts so the metal sleeves were essentially rust-bonded to the subframe holes).
So I used the alternate method I've used on a number of vehicles
The spacer/washers on the bushings are to ensure the mount points in the subframe line up with the spacing on the LCA.
I've seen a guy on FB using a similar approach except he would use an electric drill in a circular pattern to grind out the rubber part of the bushing instead of using a torch. He would cut a notch in the sleeve with a Sawzall and then drive it out with a chisel. Should by some miracle I find myself replacing a rear bushing again, I may explore this approach possibly by notching the sleeve to weaken it before using a press or chisel to remove it.
Holesaw takes bushing rubber material right out.
Good deal!
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Update: I got the new lower control arm on the passenger side installed and now I’m doing the driver side. All the control arm bolts came loose super easy with the breaker bar.
The issue now is that I rented this puller tool to get the ball joint out and it worked in that the ball joint is now loose. But it comes with this centering piece and it’s stuck hard to the bolt!! I’ve tried a pry bar, hammer and brass drift and it’s not budging. Any thoughts on how I might get this thing off? I can just saw through the bolt but then I still need to get that little piece off so I can return the tool. Maybe a torch and a pry bar??
The issue now is that I rented this puller tool to get the ball joint out and it worked in that the ball joint is now loose. But it comes with this centering piece and it’s stuck hard to the bolt!! I’ve tried a pry bar, hammer and brass drift and it’s not budging. Any thoughts on how I might get this thing off? I can just saw through the bolt but then I still need to get that little piece off so I can return the tool. Maybe a torch and a pry bar??
Clamp Vice grips onto the piece and then hit the Vice grips with a hammer. Might be able to get more striking area in the direction you want like this.
Pickle Fork and heat. Heat the centering cap and then force the pickle fork between it and the steering knuckle. Pickle forks are inexpensive and you should have one anyway. Ball joint is loose now....so you can just rap the end of it once the centering cap is removed.
