Remove lower control arm on-frame No. 2 Bushing: dimensions and parts to do it are attached (1 Viewer)

[shtbrwn86]

Update: Using some heat and a pickle fork I was able to get that cap off and the control arm is out. Also, got the new frame bushing pressed in and I was just about to install the new control arm when I noticed something weird....

The old control arms had this rubber washer thing attached to them, but it was on the inside of the control arm. Both new control arms have this piece on the outside. At first I thought I had done something wrong, or missed a piece or something, but the my control arms look like the pictures from PartSouq and so I am going to assume it's fine? Both original control arms had this piece on the inside and both new ones had it on the outside? I am going to proceed as if it is because other pictures I have seen online show the same thing installed on other rigs.

 

[Bisho]

Update: Using some heat and a pickle fork I was able to get that cap off and the control arm is out. Also, got the new frame bushing pressed in and I was just about to install the new control arm when I noticed something weird....

The old control arms had this rubber washer thing attached to them, but it was on the inside of the control arm. Both new control arms have this piece on the outside. At first I thought I had done something wrong, or missed a piece or something, but the my control arms look like the pictures from PartSouq and so I am going to assume it's fine? Both original control arms had this piece on the inside and both new ones had it on the outside? I am going to proceed as if it is because other pictures I have seen online show the same thing installed on other rigs.

View attachment 2675103View attachment 2675104

I think your old ones had the plastic ring on the wrong side. My originals had the ring on the outside. The new bushings come with that “ring” formed on the bushing.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Making progress. Got the driver side UCA on. Holy cow the ball joint was SHOT. I will post pics later, but glad I am doing this.

On a side note, when i installed the passenger LCA, the part where it connects to the frame went in super easy. Slid right in.
Driver side, not so much. I really had to work it to get it in. I was able to get it in, but i think some of the frame mounted bushing "teeth" got smooshed a bit. There should still be plenty of teeth left but I just wanted to know what other people have experienced?

 

[TheForger]

Making progress. Got the driver side UCA on. Holy cow the ball joint was SHOT. I will post pics later, but glad I am doing this.

On a side note, when i installed the passenger LCA, the part where it connects to the frame went in super easy. Slid right in.
Driver side, not so much. I really had to work it to get it in. I was able to get it in, but i think some of the frame mounted bushing "teeth" got smooshed a bit. There should still be plenty of teeth left but I just wanted to know what other people have experienced?

Just put on my drivers side LCA yesterday and it was a little difficult as well. Took quite a bit of contorting and persuasion with a rubber mallet to get the arms to line up with the frame holes

 

[shtbrwn86]

Just put on my drivers side LCA yesterday and it was a little difficult as well. Took quite a bit of contorting and persuasion with a rubber mallet to get the arms to line up with the frame holes

Good to know. I ended up grabbing the hub/knuckle and shimmying it around a bit until it slid in.
Uppers, well at least the driver side, was an absolute breeze!

 

[richg]

If you were able to get it in without too much trouble, it is probably fine, but there are multiple sizes of shims available for the LCA frame-installed bushing. These different sized shims effectively allow you to change the spacing of the frame mounting points so that they line up with the LCA.

 

[shtbrwn86]

If you were able to get it in without too much trouble, it is probably fine, but there are multiple sizes of shims available for the LCA frame-installed bushing. These different sized shims effectively allow you to change the spacing of the frame mounting points so that they line up with the LCA.

Shims? You mean the washers that slide over the bushing? I have heard some people say the bushing they pressed out didn't have that washer/spacer. Both the bushings I removed had the washer so I put it back on both of them.

 

[richg]

Shims? You mean the washers that slide over the bushing? I have heard some people say the bushing they pressed out didn't have that washer/spacer. Both the bushings I removed had the washer so I put it back on both of them.

Yes. There are multiple sizes (thicknesses) available from the factory.

 

[flintknapper]

Yes. There are multiple sizes (thicknesses) available from the factory.

Haven't seen that. Are you sure? I've only seen one offered...but could be wrong.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Yes. There are multiple sizes (thicknesses) available from the factory.

Haven't seen that. Are you sure? I've only seen one offered...but could be wrong.

I only see one part available. Would love to know more about this

 

[Bisho]

Shims? You mean the washers that slide over the bushing? I have heard some people say the bushing they pressed out didn't have that washer/spacer. Both the bushings I removed had the washer so I put it back on both of them.

I only had the washer (on the passenger side) from the factory. I imagine if you had them both, Mr T intended it that way!

 

[richg]

Sorry, I remembered incorrectly. It isn't that there are multiple sizes available, but that the parts manual shows multiple ones can be installed at each location. FWIW there is no mention in my '98 shop manual of any being installed at that location, but my truck had one installed at each bushing.

 

[flintknapper]

Sorry, I remembered incorrectly. It isn't that there are multiple sizes available, but that the parts manual shows multiple ones can be installed at each location. FWIW there is no mention in my '98 shop manual of any being installed at that location, but my truck had one installed at each bushing.

View attachment 2683740

No worry. That is what I have seen as well.

Multiples (of the same size) can be installed and from what I read here some bushings will have them, others not.

I expect they are needed to 'align' certain parts with others. I wasn't even aware there was such a thing until I took my bushings out...because as you point out, they are not mentioned or illustrated in the FSM (or at least not mine).

 

[OwnerCS]

Just one per side. I had to clean it up and reuse it.

 

[shtbrwn86]

I should get the passenger UCA on tonight or tomorrow. Really want to take this thing out this weekend! Here is my plan based on what I read on how to tighten everything back up. Can someone please look over what I think the process should be and see if there is anything I am planning to do that's not right?

OFF THE GROUND

1. Threadlock and torque the two bolts on the torque arms
2. Torque the ball joints and install cotter pins.
3. Torque the tie rod ends and install the cotter pins.
4. Put tires back on

BACK ON THE GROUND

1. Double check the cam adjustment bolts to make sure they didn't move when lowering
2. Use TechStream to dial in pressures and let AHC level the LX
3. Torque the two UCA bolts
4. Threadlock and torque the two big LCA bolts
5. Torque the lower shock bolt
6. Torque the sway bar link bolt
7. Get an alignment
8. Return all the loaner tools to AutoZone.
9. Drink multiple beers.

 

[Bisho]

I should get the passenger UCA on tonight or tomorrow. Really want to take this thing out this weekend! Here is my plan based on what I read on how to tighten everything back up. Can someone please look over what I think the process should be and see if there is anything I am planning to do that's not right?

OFF THE GROUND

1. Threadlock and torque the two bolts on the torque arms
2. Torque the ball joints and install cotter pins.
3. Torque the tie rod ends and install the cotter pins.
4. Put tires back on

BACK ON THE GROUND

1. Double check the cam adjustment bolts to make sure they didn't move when lowering
2. Torque the two UCA bolts
3. Threadlock and torque the two big LCA bolts
4. Torque the lower shock bolt
5. Torque the sway bar link bolt
6. Get an alignment
7. Return all the loaner tools to AutoZone.
8. Drink multiple beers.

Reading how hard it is to torque the LCA bolts on the ground, I used a jack to raised the LCA to the height I planned on having set with the TBs while it was on the lift. Then I torqued the 2 lower bolts. I could then let the LCA back down and bolt the TB in place.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Read this on another thread...

Digg
No. Install control arms and their bolts + nuts finger tight, but install the torsion bar torque arms and torque their bolts + nuts to spec (166 ft-lbf). Put wheels etc. back on and drop the truck off jack + jack stands so that truck is 100% on its own weight. Make sure the alignment cams are at your match marks and then torque all the control arm bolts/nuts to spec (72 ft-lbf for uppers and 170 ft-lbf for lowers).

Helps if yer skinny

@JunkCrzr89
That's pretty much what my plan was, although I gently snugged the bolts on the control arms with a socket. You say just hand tight when I lower it? I probably do need to run the AHC to make sure it's level and has good pressures before I torque it down right? Don't want any extra stress on those bushings.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Reading how hard it is to torque the LCA bolts on the ground, I used a jack to raised the LCA to the height I planned on having set with the TBs while it was on the lift. Then I torqued the 2 lower bolts. I could then let the LCA back down and bolt the TB in place.

If i read this right, you don't have AHC right? You had the truck on it's own wheels, raised it up to your desired height and then torqued it down? Also sounds like you have access to a lift. I do not, unfortunately. I wonder if I could drive it up on a couple blocks of wood to get an extra 5-6 inches of clearance underneath for when I go to do this.

 

[Bisho]

If i read this right, you don't have AHC right? You had the truck on it's own wheels, raised it up to your desired height and then torqued it down? Also sounds like you have access to a lift. I do not, unfortunately. I wonder if I could drive it up on a couple blocks of wood to get an extra 5-6 inches of clearance underneath for when I go to do this.

I suppose you could do that. I actually torqued those bolts without tires on the truck or the TBs connected. I jacked up the LCA until I had 21.5" center hub to fender lip (my "lift"), then torqued them. Then I let it down and finished assembly. You could also do that on jack stands.

The TB mount very much interferes with your ability to access the rear bolt, unless you have a very thin open end wrench.

 

[flintknapper]

The TB mount very much interferes with your ability to access the rear bolt, unless you have a very thin open end wrench.

It certainly does.

I used a jack to put enough pressure on the LCA to start lifting the vehicle and then tightened the bolts on mine.

But I had to drive a couple of tapered punches into the slot of the TB mount to hold the head of the bolt while I tightened to spec.

Did not have a wrench that would fit in that small space and likely would have never gotten it out if had one. Punches kept the bolt head from turning and then tapped out with a hammer.