Remove lower control arm on-frame No. 2 Bushing: dimensions and parts to do it are attached (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ccasey
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I did use new OEM LCA on both sides. I did the job for someone else, who supplied the parts. IIRC he wanted new OEM ball joints and bushing.
I'd only replaced one LCA before. Which was because it had a damaged shock mount.
Looking at the bushing Press Tool I turned down....I came up with the following diameter.
So....anything close to this that has a FLAT end should work well enough to contact the shell of the bushing (discounting minor tolerance issues with the bore in the frame).
So....anything close to this that has a FLAT end should work well enough to contact the shell of the bushing (discounting minor tolerance issues with the bore in the frame).
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Any suggestions for getting the bottom end of a socket flat? Could you use a grinding wheel on a Dremel maybe?
I used the side of a grinding wheel on my bench grinder to do that to a socket I use for removing the fill plugs on the Tcase and Diffs on my 80 series. The heads on them are very shallow and you don't make full contact because of the bevel (lead-in). So the same thing could be done to make a flat surface on a socket for a press tool. Just be sure to grind it (using whatever) 'square' so you have full contact on the lip of the bushing.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I wonder if this kit would work if you drilled out the center part of the bushing? It's got a 46mm plate which looks like it would work. The only question I have is the center hole size for the plates. It looks like it's only 1/2 inch.
Coincidentally, I ordered a similar kit just two days a ago. I'll measure the 46 & 47mm discs to see how accurate they are when it arrives.
Amazon product ASIN B076HRSYSP
I bought it for a different purpose....but the thought crossed my mind as well that it 'might' be able to be used to remove the #2 bushing. As you say...the center would need to be drilled out first.
I guessing the bore in the frame is meant to measure about 47mm. So the 46mm disc should fit easily in the bore (being roughly .050" smaller). How fully it would contact the shell of the bushing....I can't say since I don't have a new one to measure.
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@2001LC has it figured out. The ledge/lip machined into this socket is the ticket to keeping it centered and immovable to the bushing. Thinking of options to get the cost of making the tool reasonable (on a repeatable scale), I think if its possible to machine and step down pieces of 2" DOM tube on a lathe you might be able to make this for a reasonable cost if you can make 20 -25pcs at once.
I looked at the ACME thread and if I were making the tool, I think that would be my choice too- the price is reasonable in 500mm lengths. Good suggestion @flintknapper
^^^^
5/8" x 8 ACME is actually more common and you can find 'coupling nuts' for it as well. If I were offering a kit....I would include both regular nuts and two coupling nuts for those bushings that are REALLY stubborn.
A coupling nut will engage more threads. Yes, more heat and friction....but pretty much no chance of stripping a thread on either the rod or nut. Because you know some dolt is going to put an impact on it despite the instructions you included NOT TO.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
So that Autocraft socket fit the bore? Interesting. I measured all the impact sockets at harbor freight, autozone etc and they were all too big.
I see I can order one on Amazon or through wal-mart but they both come from a place called Tool Liquidators. Crazy thing is the business address on Amazon is in Tacoma, WA like 20 minutes from me. I might swing by and see if they have it in stock. I’ll need to get some longer threaded rod but that Acme thread looks like just the ticket.
Surprisingly the sockets I used during the operation I already had from replacing Nissan FWD CV axle nuts. So I didn't need to buy anything. I borrowed a press kit from Advance to get a receiver cup. Not that I'm a great lover of Advance tools, but they are close and open on weekends when I get in a jam and discover I need a tool.
Once I pressed the bushing out, the socket was so tight inside the tube that I had to do a reverse press to push it out. I had to use another smaller socket to push out the 35mm with a big piece of pipe that I use as a cheater for the reverse receiver. I'm sure there are more precise fitting tools available.
I just went with what I already have in the toolbox, grimaced and got the job done.
It could have been easier if I had used a torch to heat up the frame mount. I did use an electric heat gun to expand the tube. I have a touch, but with the oil that was leaking at the time I did the refresh, I was afraid I would set the oil on fire. Ha!
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I pulled the trigger on a bush/bearing driver set on Amazon. Sucks to buy this entire kit for the one 46mm plate, but it looks like it will do exactly what I need. Just drill out the center rubber portion and use this with some ACME rod and some heat and I bet it will come right out.
My wife is not too happy with how long this project is taking as she can't park her car in the garage at the moment.
My wife is not too happy with how long this project is taking as she can't park her car in the garage at the moment.
Mine showed up today. Good news and bad news.
Good news is the set is of pretty decent quality (better than I expected). I measured several of the drivers and they are pretty darn close. Just a bit oversize but consistently so.
The Bad news (for anyone wanting to use these as a 'press tool' is that the I.D. is not 5/8", nor is it 1/2". Mine are just a hair under 1/2". It could certainly be drilled out slightly and a hardened 1/2" ACME threaded rod used, but it wouldn't fit the driver handle for use as a seal/bearing/bushing tool very well after that.
Not an issue for me...since I didn't buy it for that purpose, but passing this on for sake of posterity.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
I read that as well about the one I bought. 12mm is the hole size on these. I might drill it out but I’m also talking to a guy local to me that does this kind of thing about producing something to do exactly this. Not sure if there is market for it but if a tool was available specifically for this purpose I would have bought it by now.
^^^^
Me too. I think a 'press tool' by itself would sell like hotcakes (if reasonably priced). A full 'kit' I don't think would garner as much interest...but some folks would want one.
shtbrwn86
SILVER Star
Any reason 3/4" aluminum wouldn't be able to function as a press tool? The guy I contacted said he can make one super quick and easy (think a giant, thick, aluminum washer). My only concern is strength but I think it would probably be strong enough. I am not going to bother making a cup that can fit over the existing bushing because I can just drill the center out. From there I can press the new bushing back in with existing socket set. He said he can do a step as well to serve as a guide for not much extra time. Don't know price yet...
IF its an alloy (read hard) and you double them up (make two) it would probably work. Be sure to make the hole in the center large enough to accept a 5/8" bolt/threaded rod.
In some applications the bushing will require a LOT of break away force to get it moving. Mine were not bad....but I don't live in the rust belt.
Consider also the application of heat to the bushing bore. More than a few folks will need to do that.
Aluminum would stay cooler (initially) but expand more than steel when heated....so clearance in the bore should be a bit more than if using steel. Also the larger the piece (mass)... the better it would act as a heat sink. Just something to consider. Some of these bushings will not come out easily.
I turned down an aluminum adapter I had sitting around to use for my press tool and it worked fine. Suffered only a slight amount of scarring where it contacted the lip of the bushing shell, but barely noticeable. However, my bushings were not 'welded' to their bores with rust as some are bound to be.
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I think this kit might work (and for more than one specific job) - the threaded rod looks like ACME rod. Under $100
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