Red Flags

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Hi, I’m thinking of picking up this 01 LX from MA and am not familiar with what to look for.


I asked for undercarriage pics and the owner ended up sharing a video…do yall spot any red flags?

There seems to be some oil leak and rust/paint flaking but not sure what I’m looking at overall.

 
Seeing the rotted away tank shield leads me to believe there is a lot more hidded issues. I would want to see the bottom of each quarter panel, as the video seems to stop just at that point on the right rear side, and does not even show it on the left rear. The transmission cross member is splitting from the built up corrosion, there seems to be an abundance of axle grease around the front sway bar bushing, driver side, and images of the rear diff indicate painted over corrosion on the diff, right side trailing arm mount and the upper rear cross member, left side. A lot of time and effort will be needed to clean up the frame to get a good indication of actual condition. Certianly not a 10k truck, but maybe worth if 3k to 5k depending on the rest of it...
 
I’d add this… what is your purpose for buying and how long would you like to keep it? If is just to hack around in and you don’t really care what it looks like in 5 years, who cares… otherwise, just buy a car from the south/west. It is not just looking for structural rot. Working on a rusty car is miserable. It impacts every bolt you need to take off. Just find a car somewhere south of NC and buy a one way plane ticket. You could do it in one day…. And cost way less than any rust treatment/labor!
 
Run Forest Run🏃‍♂️🏃‍♂️
 
Seeing the rotted away tank shield leads me to believe there is a lot more hidded issues. I would want to see the bottom of each quarter panel, as the video seems to stop just at that point on the right rear side, and does not even show it on the left rear. The transmission cross member is splitting from the built up corrosion, there seems to be an abundance of axle grease around the front sway bar bushing, driver side, and images of the rear diff indicate painted over corrosion on the diff, right side trailing arm mount and the upper rear cross member, left side. A lot of time and effort will be needed to clean up the frame to get a good indication of actual condition. Certianly not a 10k truck, but maybe worth if 3k to 5k depending on the rest of it...
Well thank you for the detailed response.

I actually flew down to DC last weekend only to find out the LC had been rear ended with ensuing rust bubbles in the tailgate and misaligned body panels inside and outside, something the seller didn’t disclose in the ad.

I thought I’d go local but that means salty New England…uggh first world problems, I know. 😊
 
I’d add this… what is your purpose for buying and how long would you like to keep it? If is just to hack around in and you don’t really care what it looks like in 5 years, who cares… otherwise, just buy a car from the south/west. It is not just looking for structural rot. Working on a rusty car is miserable. It impacts every bolt you need to take off. Just find a car somewhere south of NC and buy a one way plane ticket. You could do it in one day…. And cost way less than any rust treatment/labor!
Yeah I can’t imagine living in an area where the undercarriage on cars isn’t a sea of brown and bolts doesn’t require multiple techniques to loosen, but then I worry about being able to spot flood cars from the hurricane prone states.
 
If you're from MA like I am, you need to learn to work on a car with a little rust. It will make you a better mechanic in the long run. Get a lot of penetrating oil and a quality metric tap and die kit.
You can also take it up to NHOU and have them perform their "rustoration" it's $800.
 
Well thank you for the detailed response.

I actually flew down to DC last weekend only to find out the LC had been rear ended with ensuing rust bubbles in the tailgate and misaligned body panels inside and outside, something the seller didn’t disclose in the ad.

I thought I’d go local but that means salty New England…uggh first world problems, I know. 😊
Good luck with your search, if you come upon a truck near the Boston area, I should be able to give it a once over for you... My shop and I specialize in the Toyota frame restoration world. Everything... repairs, oxidation and corrosion removal, frame reconstruction and installation and internal/external frame coating. Glad to be able to help!
 
Too rusty, go out west/down south and pick up a cherry one instead.
They cost the same but you get a lot more vehicle for your $$$
Also go for an 03+ if budget allows
 
You guys are super supportive, thanks so much everyone!

Oh I meant to ask.

For $15k-$17k, what would you look for in a 100 series LX or LC?

200k-250k miles from the S or SW states?

Would that amount of miles be concerning?

FWIW, this was the ad that had the undercarriage video: https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/...ghtspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner

This was the ad with the rear damage:

 
The one with no license plate they're just flipping. Look for cars that are parked in driveways and the description usually starts with "I'm selling MY"
There's a great one in FL. Fully restored.

 
Funny, I live in MA and I purchased my 2002 LC in Tampa 3 years ago. I got it with 205K miles on it for $12,500 back when used cars were selling for crazy prices so i I think i got a good deal. Ive put 45K miles on it since then and has been nothing but reliable. Oil every 5k miles and i bought it rust free so i go heavy on the fluid film every fall to prevent rust and it works perfectly. I highly recommend getting a southern car even if it has more miles. Make sure you get a carfax! worth the money
 
I just bought a 2000 LC that was originally sold at Stadium Toyota in Tampa. Frame is rust free, but it looks like moisture was getting past the belt moulding in the front, right door. Ugh.
You can get a 6.99 CarFax report at cheapcarfaxreport.net, I use them all the time. Also check the service history using the VIN through Lexus or Toyota.
1000004801.jpg
 
Oh I meant to ask.

For $15k-$17k, what would you look for in a 100 series LX or LC?

200k-250k miles from the S or SW states?

Would that amount of miles be concerning?

FWIW, this was the ad that had the undercarriage video: https://m.facebook.com/marketplace/...ghtspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner

This was the ad with the rear damage:

Try to buy from Mud classifieds whenever possible so you can deal with a sane person instead of a random used car listing.

The market for these cars is getting tough to navigate and they sell quick.

I picked up my 2004 GX470 for $8000 with 250k miles a few months ago. Got lucky and found it on the classifieds. Otherwise I spent a few months doing what your doing, asking questions and trying to find a perfect rig, but then taking too long and the vehicle sells to someone else.


 
I would add $750 to your budget for a plane ticket and gas... and GET OUT OF THE RUST BELT. That $750 will come back to you too - in the form of fewer broken, stuck parts and fewer shop hours for regular maintenance, upgrades and mods. Stuck, broken bolts/nuts are very time-consuming, which, at $150/hr adds up to a few plane tickets over just a couple years.
 
Here is a beauty worth considering
$14k w/ 200k and never off roaded but well used

Recent service done with timing belt. Lots of other maintenance already checked off the list. Extra tires. And its listed on MUD so they will have more patience then your average seller

Redmond WA is a not very rusty area, shouldn't have any issues there

Price dropped over the past few weeks so must not have a lot of interest, go for it.


 
Keep your eye on Carsnbids.com and bringatrailer.com. Usually some very nice rigs get listed and sell within your budget. Be cautious, ask a lot of questions and arrange for an independent PPI (pre-purchase inspection) prior to completing any purchase. Some sellers/dealers on those sites have great vehicles, great reputaions and offer headache free trucks. Others on those sites are just flippers who do nothing but wash the trucks and list them quickly after aquiring them. Pretty easy to figure out which is which.

With respect to a southern purchase... a clean, undamaged frame is the most desirable condition, but beware of flood vehicles!
Should you find your unicorn, you can verify via carfax, mylexus, and your own vehicle insurance company/agent, the past history of the vehicle.

Good luck!
 
I would add $750 to your budget for a plane ticket and gas... and GET OUT OF THE RUST BELT. That $750 will come back to you too - in the form of fewer broken, stuck parts and fewer shop hours for regular maintenance, upgrades and mods. Stuck, broken bolts/nuts are very time-consuming, which, at $150/hr adds up to a few plane tickets over just a couple years.

so that it can rust to death when he brings it back? I don't get this.

Leave the rust free trucks alone.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom