mudgudgeon
Resident galah
Uncertain from your pic. Does the valve stem have holes around the base?
Sealed by the knob?
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter baldilocks
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Uncertain from your pic. Does the valve stem have holes around the base?
Sealed by the knob?
- Thread starter
- #622
Yes
- Thread starter
- #623
Took me several days to understand Bluetooth brakes.I see you got some of those Bluetooth rear brakes!
During the initial install, I TQd them every 100 for the first 500 miles.
I maybe TQ them now before a big trip if I'm not lazy. Otherwise at least for my racelines, they have never loosened every time I have checked them.
- Thread starter
- #625
I managed to finish glueing the rear diff armor on yesterday. Next is mounting the air compressor to the sway bar tube. Any opinions on that idea?
- Thread starter
- #626
Today was a great day. On my feet at 0730 and had the bird in my smoker by 0900. It finished sooner than I figured for at 275 deg. We ate early but good anyway. We took Gabby the super Minnie Aussie for a 2 mile walk to fight off the food coma and then I still had time to spend with my mistress in the garage.
My extreme air compressor had to be moved because the new anti sway bar runs through the frame where it was originally mounted. So now I’m going to mount the compressor on the sway bar enclosure tube. Here’s what I came up with.
My extreme air compressor had to be moved because the new anti sway bar runs through the frame where it was originally mounted. So now I’m going to mount the compressor on the sway bar enclosure tube. Here’s what I came up with.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #627
Well, since the rear bumper is removed I decided it would be a good idea to replaced all body mounts and related hardware. This job is mostly straight forward. I took some pictures that I hoped would reduce the number of words I need to use here.
Due to the design of the forward most and rear most “cushions”, the body has to be raised some 3” or so to facilitate their removal. I raised the body one side at a time after removing the nuts from all mount bolts.
The radiator fan shroud will contact the fan with some force when the body is raised sufficiently. Once I learns this I removed the two shroud bolts and pulled the shroud as free from the radiator as possible with the upper hose still in place which created enough clearance that heavy fan to shroud contact was avoided.
My 80 was originally sold and spent most of its 28 years in the high desert of Oregon so rust isn’t an issue but I opted to replace all hardware anyway. As it turned out the two front mount bolts were quite corroded and by far the worst of the bunch. Anyone who wants this good hardware can have it for the cost of shipping.
Due to the design of the forward most and rear most “cushions”, the body has to be raised some 3” or so to facilitate their removal. I raised the body one side at a time after removing the nuts from all mount bolts.
The radiator fan shroud will contact the fan with some force when the body is raised sufficiently. Once I learns this I removed the two shroud bolts and pulled the shroud as free from the radiator as possible with the upper hose still in place which created enough clearance that heavy fan to shroud contact was avoided.
My 80 was originally sold and spent most of its 28 years in the high desert of Oregon so rust isn’t an issue but I opted to replace all hardware anyway. As it turned out the two front mount bolts were quite corroded and by far the worst of the bunch. Anyone who wants this good hardware can have it for the cost of shipping.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #628
Lifting the drivers side of the body at two locations.
Note that the rear cushion part numbers are listed for HDJ81. Same numbers as for the FZJ80 but show as no longer available for the FZJ80.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #629
On the passenger side I raised the body at a single location here midpoint on a floor reinforcement placing a 1/4” thick steel plate between the body and the 4x6 piece of wood. This particular reinforcement does not exist on the driver side so lifting was done at two locations.
Last edited:
Well done Sir 
I need to do body mounts on my 95, they look as bad or worse than yours after 9 years of beating on this thing. Glad to see you can still get them, but that’s a good chunk of change… was partsouq the best price you found?
- Thread starter
- #633
Partsouq usually has the best prices by far but your order needs to be big enough to offset the shipping cost from the UAE. The dealer price would have been over $800 and online oem offerings here I the USA somewhere in between. I don’t remember exactly.
- Thread starter
- #634
I put the sound deadener down a few years ago and have since had the carpet out two more times changing products/adding more insulation to reject heat penetration through the floorboards especially on the passengers side where the floor can make my wife’s feet uncomfortably warm during summer crawling. We’ve got it handled pretty well now.
Have you seen my posts from a couple years ago where I put heat reflective blanket on the underside of the floor? That made the greatest difference in keeping the floor cooler above the side by side cats.
I’m curious what kind of difference you noticed while driving the truck after replacing the body mounts? Less squeaks/rattling over bumps in the road??? Also… what kinda heat blanket/shield did you use under the carpets? I’ve done a 6.0 LS swap and the custom exhaust get quite hot in the cab especially bc the old exhaust heat shields don’t fit back.
I was wondering the same thing.
My conclusion is your not going to be able to tell the difference like you would replacing the control arm bushing.
That being said I still think it's a good idea for peace of mind and to get new body mounts well there still available!!
- Thread starter
- #637
My 80 is out of commission for other on going modifications so I have yet to drive it since the body mounts were replaced but I’ve read the posts of others who have done it and they say in cab noise was reduced. This is believable because the rubber ages and hardens a bit over time not to mention the wear that can be seen in the photos I posted. Also, corroded tie down bolts are a concern especially for folks in the rust belt.
I looked back a few pages and it seems that I never posted the last heat blockage efforts that I carried out back in 2019 so I’ll post that below. Note that putting heat blocking material on the underside between the exhaust system and the body has had the greatest effect on reducing interior floor temps.
- Thread starter
- #638
I was asked about the heat block material I used in my attempt to keep the floor board cooler. Since I never recorded that event here in my thread I do that now. This was back in 2019.
- Thread starter
- #639
Older, harder rubber will transmit vibration into the cab more than new rubber. The new cushions are very compliant. Eventually, they will crumble and as you can see in the pics, there is a good bit of deterioration. Tie down bolt corrosion is another concern. I was very surprised to see how deeply my two front hold down bolts were. The worst one came from the passenger side. She’s going to be all that a trail Cadi can be rolling on mud tires.
Hi, what is this heat reflective material I see you used - molded onto the outside bottom of the body?
What's it called & where to get it?
What's it called & where to get it?
