Those are very nice air down valves... do they stop at a certain psi?
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2.
- Thread starter baldilocks
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #602
I have no idea.
- Thread starter
- #603
It took hours but I won.
Looks sweet man.
- Thread starter
- #605
The river is high back yard ….
Not a easy task, when are you going to do the other 4
They look good Steve, how does the rubber feel soft ?
more welding required for sure.keep welding
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
I'm surprised you haven't snapped those crap Nitro axles.
Ha ha he has !
- Thread starter
- #610
I only bought 4 tires and wheels so three to go. The new rubber squeaks on the garage floor.Not a easy task, when are you going to do the other 4
They look good Steve, how does the rubber feel soft ?
Gabby says those wheels are Kewl..
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #613
I welded the driver side sway bar tab onto the axle about an inch to far outboard because I blindly used a factory circumferential weld as the guide. The driver side weld is not in the same location as the the passenger side weld. I fixed that mistake yesterday. Also, from a previous post you know that I botched a link rod and fixed that with a some weld and a threaded turn buckle sort of long nut, forget the correct nomenclature.
I didn’t really like that so I went shopping for AntiRock replacement parts and found plenty. They sell shorter links than the ones that come in this particular kit. After some “careful calculations” it was evident that the 8.5” threaded rod would work well so I order two.
I didn’t really like that so I went shopping for AntiRock replacement parts and found plenty. They sell shorter links than the ones that come in this particular kit. After some “careful calculations” it was evident that the 8.5” threaded rod would work well so I order two.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #614
Today has been all about one wheel and one tire so far…. I mounted a new tire on one of the new Trail Ready beadlocks I purchased a few months ago but it wouldn’t air up. I bought these RAD valve stems separately but also from Trail Ready, who by the way, is located in Prineville, OR. The RAD stems are a bit fatter and have a knurled knob that seals against the stem body. To air down all you have to do is unscrew the knob. Anyway, what I discovered is that on this wheel, and one other, is that the the hole for the valve stem is too deep. This causes the stem/knob sealing surface to be recessed below the wheel material itself. That won’t allow the the Oring on the knob face to seal against the stem face. Trail ready was all over this with good customer service and suggested I use the inner grommet from the standard, included stems along with the be outer grommet that comes with the RAD stems to space the stem outward. That bandaid is holding air the last couple hours now and I think I’ll just go with it even though they offered to replace the two affected wheels. Tires on tires off equals pain in the ass. As long as it holds air Im happy. They looked through their inventory and found three different depths of valve stem holes and were unaware of this inconsistency.
Last edited:
looks good Steve. I have heard from the Jeep guys running Trail Ready beadlock wheels have problems with bolts on the beadlock making their way loose. For what it is worth, keep your eyes on them. =)
all beadlocks bolts need to be check periodically. I retorque mine at a min 4 times a wheeling season.
Good call, i need to check and retorque mine, its been a couple yrs and none seem to be loose so far.
- Thread starter
- #618
Thanks for the input guys. I had Trail Ready beadlocks on a different rig years ago so I’m up on the bolt rechecks.
Nice tire wheel combo, goes good with white.
Dig the side tread.
Definitely a wider stance going on there.
Dig the side tread.
Definitely a wider stance going on there.
