- Thread starter
- #841
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter baldilocks
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #842
- Thread starter
- #843
Last evening I got around to doing a close inspection of the ARB air locker and discovered wear on the clutch gear. I don’t think I’d classify this wear as excessive based on how much it’s been used but I think I’ll order up a new clutch gear and return spring kit since the unit is already disassembled. With the new bonded seal and these other hard parts replaced the locker should serve me for as long as I own it without issues.
I’ve included photos of the wear on the clutch gear teeth. I also re-installed the old bonded seal, clutch gear and side gear then sat the other half of the carrier back on to apply shop air and actuate the piston to see just how far the piston moves. I did this because, as you can see in the gear tooth photos, the clutch gear only engages the side gear about 3mm. I marked the side gear teeth with a black marker to show this clearly as well as being able to see the distance between the bottom of the clutch gear and the housing once actuated. The portion of the side gear tooth that is not marked black is the engagement area.
This small 3mm of engagement is what has me inclined toward installing a new clutch gear. Who knows what that 3mm will be down to in a few more years. Maybe I’m wrong about the need to replace the clutch gear but the thing is apart and the gear/spring kit is only $92.
For the record, the bonded seal, which I was so strongly encouraged to replace, shows no signs of damage or impending doom. In fact, I bent it upon removing it with a pick and was then able to hammer it straight with a mallet, reinstall it, and see it work perfectly during my tests. Having only one moving part, this unit is dead simple compared to the Harrop e-locker
Clutch gear and piston up and gear teeth engaged.
Clutch gear removed and 3mm engagement area show below the black marks.
I’ve included photos of the wear on the clutch gear teeth. I also re-installed the old bonded seal, clutch gear and side gear then sat the other half of the carrier back on to apply shop air and actuate the piston to see just how far the piston moves. I did this because, as you can see in the gear tooth photos, the clutch gear only engages the side gear about 3mm. I marked the side gear teeth with a black marker to show this clearly as well as being able to see the distance between the bottom of the clutch gear and the housing once actuated. The portion of the side gear tooth that is not marked black is the engagement area.
This small 3mm of engagement is what has me inclined toward installing a new clutch gear. Who knows what that 3mm will be down to in a few more years. Maybe I’m wrong about the need to replace the clutch gear but the thing is apart and the gear/spring kit is only $92.
For the record, the bonded seal, which I was so strongly encouraged to replace, shows no signs of damage or impending doom. In fact, I bent it upon removing it with a pick and was then able to hammer it straight with a mallet, reinstall it, and see it work perfectly during my tests. Having only one moving part, this unit is dead simple compared to the Harrop e-locker
Last edited:
FMC80
SILVER Star
Great write-up Steve. Enjoying this journey, you're on. After reading this entire thread and your other thread debating different lockers, I am convinced the ARBs are the way to go. My 40th is unlocked, and if I ever do decide to lock it, its fate was determined by your real-world experiences and trials.
Thanks for the recommendation.
- Thread starter
- #846
Thanks Pell, these vehicles are all about adventure. To bad the Landcruiser personality died at the factory. Someday 500 years from now someone will be digging a hole to crap in and find a turn signal attached to the fender attached to the body of a 1993 FZJ80. They will excavate an entire vehicle like never seen before that starts right up and drives like a vault on wheels. Testosterone levels will sore and the ladies will be digging for more LandCruisers.
Adventure puts it lightly. Tonight I went through my part box from West Coast differentials. The big parts are correct but the pinion depth shims are for a Dana 60/70. The pinion preload shims are 2mm wider than what I took off. More phone calls tomorrow.
Last edited:
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
I can almost smell that gear oil. Thanks for sharing this write up Steve.
They'll find my remains in the front seat. I'm definitely getting buried in my cruiser.
- Thread starter
- #849
This morning I called West Coast Differentials to find out about the shim discrepancy. As it turns out the the pinion depth shims that are huge actually go beneath the forward pinion bearing race. You you go back in with the shims that came from under the forward bearing and then make fine adjustments in pinion depth with the big shims under the race. As for the pinion preload shims being 2mm to fat, the solution was to buy a solid spacer kit. Buy now cry now…..
I went with the 29 spline upgrade pinion. Ironically the older 27 spline pinion measures 27.xxmm at the splines and the new 29 spline pinion measures 29.xxmm at the splines.
Parts for the diff still inbound, I began housing reinforcements along the lower side. Welding in both ArcWorxs knuckle ball gussets and hand made and beat into submission a 3/16 thick piece of armor for the
bottom of the diff. The portion surrounding the drain plug I added several years ago.
I went with the 29 spline upgrade pinion. Ironically the older 27 spline pinion measures 27.xxmm at the splines and the new 29 spline pinion measures 29.xxmm at the splines.
Parts for the diff still inbound, I began housing reinforcements along the lower side. Welding in both ArcWorxs knuckle ball gussets and hand made and beat into submission a 3/16 thick piece of armor for the
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #850
The Ribs look good !!
- Thread starter
- #852
Simultaneously I smoke ribs five hours and weld my nads off and all you comment on is the ribs. Thanks!!!
Absolutely no explanation of the random meat in the middle of that story.
I knew you would get a kick out of thatSimultaneously I smoke ribs five hours and weld my nads off and all you comment on is the ribs. Thanks!!!
- Thread starter
- #855
I’m proud of my meat….. it’s juicy and nutritious.Absolutely no explanation of the random meat in the middle of that story.
I don't share pictures of my meat online. I don't want to be judged.
- Thread starter
- #857
Hey, smoking meat isn’t as hard as you think it is. These ribs are delicious. Post what you smoke, we can coach you through difficulties. Get busy.
Ok if you insist, The welds look a bit cold, I'm no expert but I would turn the the power up and the wire downSimultaneously I smoke ribs five hours and weld my nads off and all you comment on is the ribs. Thanks!!!
- Thread starter
- #859
I knew you would say that. I pre heated the area. I move slower than I probably should so they pile up a bit. I can say that I’ve done a lot of welds on my rig with my current machine and none have failed.Ok if you insist, The welds look a bit cold, I'm no expert but I would turn the the power up and the wire down
I do contemplate buying a bigger machine before starting each project then the fact that my welds have not failed comes back to me and then spending 2grand doesn’t seem so necessary. My sliders are the prime example. They get pounded heavy and stand undefeated.
Thanks for motivating me to get that new welder. Haha
It's only money
