Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2. (3 Viewers)

[80t0ylc]

Ya need to add some weight in the back..... Crampons will help when you're walking, but are a bi*** trying to drive with.

 

[baldilocks]

Ya need to add some weight in the back..... Crampons will help when you're walking, but are a bi*** trying to drive with.

I did add 700 pounds to the bed of the truck.

 

[80t0ylc]

I did add 700 pounds to the bed of the truck.

Yeah, I was just laughing at the pics of your collection of weights and being a smart ass. My back would hurt after loading all that! It's best to stay home when it's like that....but, I know - sometimes you can't.

 

[baldilocks]

The new welder is finally set up. Life got busy there for a bit but I’m back on the job now. Lincoln has rebates going on so I sprung for the MP 215i. It does all processes plus AL with a DC spool gun.

 

[baldilocks]

Some work was done.

 

[baldilocks]

I opted to let the axle housing lay free on the work bench and just weld it slowly a couple inches at a time. With it being 40 degrees the welds cool pretty quickly. Almost finished. I ordered lower ball gussets from arcworx in Montana at the suggestion of @Squeegee. Lowers is all they offer so I made the upper ball gussets myself. Don’t know if all this necessary because I’ve beaten this housing silly and I don’t think it’s bent. My new welder sure is nice and fun to use.

 

[BILT4ME]

As a hint when you're welding, always weld back into the previous weld. That pushes the heat stress back to where the heat was.

So, start 3" away from the end of you last weld and then weld into your last weld. Let it cool, then do the same for the next weld. It also helps clean up your starts and stops a little bit.

 

[thatcabledude]

As a hint when you're welding, always weld back into the previous weld. That pushes the heat stress back to where the heat was.

So, start 3" away from the end of you last weld and then weld into your last weld. Let it cool, then do the same for the next weld. It also helps clean up your starts and stops a little bit.

Nice tip

 

[baldilocks]

As a hint when you're welding, always weld back into the previous weld. That pushes the heat stress back to where the heat was.

So, start 3" away from the end of you last weld and then weld into your last weld. Let it cool, then do the same for the next weld. It also helps clean up your starts and stops a little bit.

Thank you. So many starts and stops to keep the heat down. I let it cool for about 20 minutes between welds.

 

[baldilocks]

Cleaned up for paint:

 

[Broski]

Cleaned up for paint:
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About time

 

[FMC80]

Cleaned up for paint:
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Looks so beefy. Like USDA, grade-A top-choice meat, beefy. I'm sure you'll figure out a way to break it and fix it again.

BTW, nice welder, bro. When you come over, bring that new toy with you.

 

[baldilocks]

About time

Thanks for the phone call to remind me to weld on the bump stop pads. I was so he’ll bent. on paint today that I forgot about them. Today was sunny and 50. Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and 56 which is about as good a paint day as I’m gonna get up here in February.

 

[baldilocks]

We enjoyed some very nice weather over my last set of days off from work so the axle housing is now painted and I’ve began the tedious task of setting pinion bearing preload using a solid spacer rather than the supplied crush sleeve. I had the pinion in and out no less than 15 times trying different combinations of shims. This morning before work I revisited this endeavor with a fresh outlook and I think I’ve found the correct shim combo. The FSM basically calls for 9-15inlbs of torque to turn the pinion shaft once the nut is torqued; I’ve chosen a final torque of 175ftlbs on the nut. With lightly lubed bearings the current pinion preload fluctuates, on the beam type wrench needle pointer, from 5 to 12inlbs. What I’m contemplating is keeping the current shim stack and removing a tiny bit of metal from the end of the spacer using sandpaper flat on the plate steel workbench. I think I want to bring the preload up just a smidgen.

 

[baldilocks]

I was able to use the little HF 12t press to remove the old pinion bearing so as to retrieve the the shims underneath it but not so much for the carrier bearings so I cut them off the carrier with an angle grinder and cut off wheel cutting most of the way through and then popping it with a hammer and chisel to crack the remaining wall of the race. Install was as simple as freezing the carrier and pinion and baking the bearings at 400. The bearings slid on all positions by hand no problem.

 

[Feldrian]

I was able to use the little HF 12t press to remove the old pinion bearing so as to retrieve the the shims underneath it but not so much for the carrier bearings so I cut them off the carrier with an angle grinder and cut off wheel cutting most of the way through and then popping it with a hammer and chisel to crack the remaining wall of the race. Install was as simple as freezing the carrier and pinion and baking the bearings at 400. The bearings slid on all positions by hand no problem.
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All of this reminds me of why i send my 3rds out to be built. Holy crap that's a lot of work!

 

[baldilocks]

All of this reminds me of why i send my 3rds out to be built. Holy crap that's a lot of work!

Yes it is but I’m enjoying it. I built one other diff in the past but it was not Toyota so I’m learning here too. Shops want huge hourly rates so I’m also saving some money. I’ve had to be inventive as far as some tooling js concerned as well. Fun stuff.

 

[80t0ylc]

Yes it is but I’m enjoying it. I built one other diff in the past but it was not Toyota so I’m learning here too. Shops want huge hourly rates so I’m also saving some money. I’ve had to be inventive as far as some tooling js concerned as well. Fun stuff.

There's definitely something to be said about delving into the bowels of our rigs and having fun doing it. I hear ya and right there with ya. However, on 3rds, I'd be having fun if I had someone like Zuk looking over my shoulder. Only because I know what's involved if I get something wrong and am lucky enough to be able to just tear it apart again and readjust, or worst yet - replace some expensive parts. It definitely looses it's appeal when you're tearing into the front 3rd for the 2nd or 3rd time!

 

[Feldrian]

Yes it is but I’m enjoying it. I built one other diff in the past but it was not Toyota so I’m learning here too. Shops want huge hourly rates so I’m also saving some money. I’ve had to be inventive as far as some tooling js concerned as well. Fun stuff.

You nailed it there - if i had the tooling I'd mess with regearing. I don't have a press or the other required goodies any more and the ability to send a 3rd out is just too compelling. Torfab did my last front and rear. Getting ready to order a new 3rd from Currie for the rear on the new truck.

 

[baldilocks]

There's definitely something to be said about delving into the bowels of our rigs and having fun doing it. I hear ya and right there with ya. However, on 3rds, I'd be having fun if I had someone like Zuk looking over my shoulder. Only because I know what's involved if I get something wrong and am lucky enough to be able to just tear it apart again and readjust, or worst yet - replace some expensive parts. It definitely looses it's appeal when you're tearing into the front 3rd for the 2nd or 3rd time!

No other human quality will ever top that of persistence. This is not rocket science but does require care and patience of the inexperienced hence my excruciatingly slow pace.