Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2.

[baldilocks]

 

[jvazquez53]

Mine does not look that bad, except it bent the frame, a lot of $$$ later, and two years later, is back on the road.

 

[baldilocks]

I ran both 80's side by side for 30 minutes at 2000rpm to compare fan clutch performance and actuall water temps.
The green machine seems to have a more aggressive fan clutch, however, once they both reached 195 the clutches both engaged and according to my infrared thermometer red dot on the water outlet pipe, both rigs ran in the 160's for 25 minutes. Bear in mind this is at about 75 degrees ambient and zero load. These results bolster my confidence in all this junk that occupies my driveway.

 

[baldilocks]

I finally got around to replacing the transmission solenoids in the White Rhino today. When I picked it up back in January it would be slow to shift out of first intermittently and quickly degraded to where the 80 would not move unless I slid it down in to low. The "manual drive test" with solenoid harness disconnected proved further that the problem was indeed electical and not mechanical.
The O/D off light was flashing codes 62,63 and 64 alerting me that there had been, and currently were, shorts or opens in the shift 1, shift 2 and Lockup solenoids. Actual driving indicate only shift 2 had a hard fault.
I picked up a full set of of good used solenoids from @slow95z. Today the solenoids in question failed ohm meter testing and voltage applied testing but after fiddling with them for a while shift 1and the lockup solenoid began to work as advertised which agrees with the fact that the transmission shifted like one would with a faulty shift 2 solenoid. I ended up reinstalling the original solenoids all except the shift 2.
I resealed the pan with grey Permatex "Right Stuff" in the pressurized can and refilled with 6.5 quarts of Dex/Mercon immediately and enjoyed a successful test drive.
The solenoids from right to left: Timing, shift 1, shift 2 (identicle) and far left the lockup solenoid. The hardest part of this job is removing and reinstalling the oil pan.

 

[bloc]

Good info.. will be throwing in the cobra transmission S1 noid soon. Your pic suggests the part I got is correct.

Except.. my transmission/transfer case will need to be supported by a strap or jack due to having to remove my IPOR skid to get to the transmission pan. The price we pay for protection..

 

[baldilocks]

That's exactly why I bought the double skid plate set up from Cruisinoffroad.

 

[slow95z]

Glad that fixed yours man, now I need to Dom the same on one of my 94s. Got a bad 2-3 flare and I suspect one of them is shot.

 

[baldilocks]

Glad that fixed yours man, now I need to Dom the same on one of my 94s. Got a bad 2-3 flare and I suspect one of them is shot.

I got rid the flare mine had by adjusting the throttle valve cable, it was quite loose.

 

[slow95z]

Sadly I have done that, I think the solenoid isn't holding pressure

 

[bloc]

That's exactly why I bought the double skid plate set up from Cruisinoffroad.

I still think the gained ground clearance by removing the stock one is worth it..but yeah, it does add to the delay in starting transmission work.

 

[slow95z]

Seriously hate you right now... Go adjust the kick down huh... Well I took your advice and found this.

 

[baldilocks]

Sometimes taking a look is all it takes haha! 80's have proven themselves to be very reliable and always there. A lack of love is usually the problem but isn't that always the case?

 

[baldilocks]

I still think the gained ground clearance by removing the stock one is worth it..but yeah, it does add to the delay in starting transmission work.

Before I replied I went to take a look at how far the crossmember hangs down below the frame. I agree, the gain you got is considerable. I guess my idea of "what's a problem" is different.
Even at 3/8" thick, I question the cantelever desgn of the IPOR skid plate. How does it stand up to the 80 being high centered?

 

[bloc]

How does it stand up to the 80 being high centered?

Not sure yet, but the guys crawling these things seem to swear by them.

I will say that the small added brace for the transfer kickout should do wonders for stiffening the system, at least if the synapses in my head dedicated to looking at things from a structural perspective are still working.

To me the stock Xmember certainly appears stiffer.. but I can give up a bit of that stiffness to avoid hanging up in the first place. Even then, if the 3/8" plate flexes a bit with the weight of the cruiser on it, I believe it will go right back to straight once the force is removed.


If I find this thing bent at some point in the future, I'll look at adding some structure. For now, I'll just ratchet strap the transfer up so I can change this solenoid. Considering buying 2 and 3 to do while I'm in there.. with the amount of work to get to that point.

 

[baldilocks]

Over the weekend I replace the oil pump seal and front main seal on the White Rhino. The oil pump was the leaker and she was flowing good hence the half inch thick crud everywhere.
I figure there are enough photos of this fix on Mud so I will spare you the pix.
I learned: The bump start method to loosen the crank bolt works like a charm. Definitely buy JIS drivers to remove the pump cover screws. Use the blunt #3 tip and tap it into the screw head for full engagement. Coat the cover seal with petroleum jelly so it will stick in place until you install the pump cover. Torque 15 lbft. Putting a 14mm deep socket on a torque converter bolt when you go to torque the crank pully/balancer bolt to 304 works great. I applied petroleum jelly to the entire front crank seal and was able to install it almost entirely with my bare hands. Be careful not to break the plastic radiator by-pass nipple off when you torque the crank bolt. I did and used that mistake as an excuse to order an all metal radiator CSF 2517 which gets great reviews here on Mud.
At 268k the denso alternator spins like a charm. I ordered brushes, a regulator and new harness pigtail due to corrosion and signed of heat damage.

 

[baldilocks]

Today is Monday and front axle removal day. This rig has OEM lockers but I will swap in my axles with 4.88's and air lockers from the rolled 94.
This job took me about 4 hours with air tools. Digging through deep, oily crud to find fasteners added at least an hour. Last weekend I built an axle dolly and it worked as well as I had hoped. Once on the dolly moving the axle was a piece of cake. Next was pressure washing.
I will need to be able to move my rolled rig around yet so this axle will have to be installed in a temporary sort of way on that rig until I get around to doing the complete dismantling. Yes, the lockers work.

 

[bloc]

Be careful not to break the plastic radiator by-pass nipple off when you torque the crank bolt. I did and used that mistake as an excuse to order an all metal radiator CSF 2517 which gets great reviews here on Mud.

I'm seriously considering fabricating a protection bracket that attaches to the top fan shroud mount bolts just for the bypass hose.

 

[baldilocks]

A brass nipple will bend before snapping off like this plastic crap. And if you do break it, you can braze it back on. I much prefer an all metal unit in an off road vehicle.

 

[bloc]

Ironically mine came with the CSF and I while it was robust I didn't like the ultimate fit.. the top spout and left trans cooler nipple weren't pointed like factory and it seemed quite prone to getting crusty crap built up inside. Ended up buying a Koyo.

 

[baldilocks]

I payed $318 delivered for the CSF from parts train. Could have bought a Koyo for $200. What sold me on the CSF was how Mud members applauded how well it fit as well as its overall robust build. Your description is somewhat different. Perhaps the PO of your 80 put hard water from a garden hose in the cooling system. I know of no other reason for the cause of mineral build up in a radiator.
I will report my findings when it gets here.