Good luck!
Builds Reconstruction after rollover - building The Champ 2.
- Thread starter baldilocks
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arcteryx
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No never swapped, never had a need or desire as it's a ton of work to do what you are doing. As stated, I have dismantled countless cruisers, including taking shells off the frame, and everything in between. Hands down, a drivetrain swap of the same year would be easier than removing the shell. Or better yet, just part out what you have and buy a running/driving one.
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- #23
I am done vacillating over this. I have heard it enough times so I will buy a complete cruiser. Was supposed to fly up to Oregon and buy a locked 93 today but I changed my mind. Guess I will contact the guy again and get my butt up there. Thanks
bloc
SILVER Star
It really is a complex decision.
On one hand you have a known cruiser. Drivetrain, brakes, steering, electronics, interior, window actuators, etc.. all known quantities. ANY other shell may have problems with parts of this that could require you swapping your junk in anyway. Some stuff is easy (seats).. other stuff is very time consuming (brake lines, booster, MC, soft lines, etc). Some of this stuff would stay with your chassis if you were to do a body swap (drivetrain, brake hard/soft lines), others would get swapped (harnesses) so to get back to your known state you are doing a ton of labor anyway.
Add on to that the fact that anything other than a narrow range of years exponentially complicates the labor involved, so you are left looking for a very specific unicorn (condition, year, history), and STILL up against a lot of work either way.
Your decision is where you want to spend that work.
Long story short? Don't roll your truck. But then you and I both know that already, don't we?
Smartassery aside, if you have more questions about specifics feel free to ask. Mine is currently running, with all systems operating well.. just need to replace the windshield and install a couple more front end parts and then I get to embark on the adventure of getting it titled. Gonna do everything by the books to keep it legal, which from the research I've done will most likely be a total clusterfxxx.
On one hand you have a known cruiser. Drivetrain, brakes, steering, electronics, interior, window actuators, etc.. all known quantities. ANY other shell may have problems with parts of this that could require you swapping your junk in anyway. Some stuff is easy (seats).. other stuff is very time consuming (brake lines, booster, MC, soft lines, etc). Some of this stuff would stay with your chassis if you were to do a body swap (drivetrain, brake hard/soft lines), others would get swapped (harnesses) so to get back to your known state you are doing a ton of labor anyway.
Add on to that the fact that anything other than a narrow range of years exponentially complicates the labor involved, so you are left looking for a very specific unicorn (condition, year, history), and STILL up against a lot of work either way.
Your decision is where you want to spend that work.
Long story short? Don't roll your truck. But then you and I both know that already, don't we?
Smartassery aside, if you have more questions about specifics feel free to ask. Mine is currently running, with all systems operating well.. just need to replace the windshield and install a couple more front end parts and then I get to embark on the adventure of getting it titled. Gonna do everything by the books to keep it legal, which from the research I've done will most likely be a total clusterfxxx.
- Thread starter
- #26
I will buy a complete running 80. Between the two I should have what I need to build one plus and entire working drivetrain to keep or sell.
- Thread starter
- #27
1993, white, locked, new HG...... He took it off CL for me two days ago, then I got my "period" and became indecisive so I called him back and told him no go. I will contact him next and then search flights.
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I rolled mine last July. It was in the sand dunes, I am 99% sure it was due to having no sway bars and about 4" of Slee lift. Any ways, I won't go into why or how I rolled mine. I tore it down to nothing afterwards though....
As others have said, pretty big pain in the ass to get the dash all apart, heater and wiring. The rest isn't a big deal but that stuff sucks for sure. I would just go for a more plug and play year wise, it will save you tons of work. I decided to put a real nice FJ62 body on my chassis since I already had the clean 62 body. A way bigger project than just a body swap.
Cheers
As others have said, pretty big pain in the ass to get the dash all apart, heater and wiring. The rest isn't a big deal but that stuff sucks for sure. I would just go for a more plug and play year wise, it will save you tons of work. I decided to put a real nice FJ62 body on my chassis since I already had the clean 62 body. A way bigger project than just a body swap.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #29
Looks like your A pillars stood up well. I'm flying to Pasco, Washington tomorrow to buy a locked whites 93 in Oregon at the border. HG done, seats recovered and front axle service done. I considered a body swap but the wisdom here on mud has lead me to buying a whole rig. California prices are stupid high hence the trip to NE Oregon.
You were in the dunes and probably hammering the gas and you blame your roll on lift and lack of front sway bar? Yeah ok. I'll be honest and blame my roll on me. I also have a slee 4" and no front away bar and the fact is I was just fxxxing around and feeling my oats. s*** happens!
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Agree, it is just the way it happened, truck was also acting way funky earlier that day. Easy to lift a front tire off the ground in a hard turn under throttle, never had that before in the dunes with sway bars in. I also blame myself but again, it is how it happened, basically like suspension totally unloading. First, only and last time to have the 80 in the dunes configured the way it was. Same line done in same truck other times with a different configuration and in other trucks other times. So ya it is a bit hard to blame it all on just my driving or whatever. How the suspension is configured does have an effect on how the truck handles, on-road, off-road, dunes, mud, rocks, dirt, gravel, whatever.
Any ways, congrats on your purchase. The easy way is the better way imho.
Cheers
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- #31
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- #32
Ok, she won't do reverse so I guess I'm pushing. Lol. Ok I Gus's reverse is intermittent, she decided to back out this time. Baja. Rufus, Oregon.
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- #33
bloc
SILVER Star
What happens in reverse? Light on dash illuminating? Tries to stall? just doesn't go anywhere?
Drive safe.
Drive safe.
A442F's have solenoid issues. Probably the case here.
Just saw this... grats man white is the best color on a 80.
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- #37
During my test drive from the airport to the PO home and then a couple times on the trip home, the O/D OFF light would flash a code but not constantly. The reverse thing baffles me because it has not happened since and the shifting issue has not been present the past two days so maybe it just needed some exercise. PO had this 80, an LX 450 and a new JK so he only drove it 1500 miles the last two years.
Today I noticed it flare about 200 RPM's between the 2-3 shift under moderate throttle but not at WOT.
This weekend I will pull the code from the TCU and go from there. My original plan was to pull this power train and install my nice new clean, rebuilt engine and flawless trans but if I can get this tranny straightened out, I will run this old mill and store mine for later because she runs very well and does not smoke at 268k. Perhaps the best part is that the exhaust system does not whistle!!!
Couple things......
Since you're in CA, if that isn't a CA truck, the 1993's seem to have the EGR temp sensor bypass built in, where-as the 1993 year had the EGR temp sensor for the CA models. Don't know if that's going to be an issue or not for emission testing, but thought I'd throw it out there.
My 1993 has a weird trans issue, and I'm guessing it's solenoid related. Mine won't drop into 1st after being in park. My solution is to throw it in reverse, move a few inches, then into Drive, at which point it drops into 1st. You may be able to get silly lucky like me (for now) by throwing it in neutral, then reverse.... or into drive, and then reverse....
Nice score on the vehicle, though! Sounds like a good price!
Since you're in CA, if that isn't a CA truck, the 1993's seem to have the EGR temp sensor bypass built in, where-as the 1993 year had the EGR temp sensor for the CA models. Don't know if that's going to be an issue or not for emission testing, but thought I'd throw it out there.
My 1993 has a weird trans issue, and I'm guessing it's solenoid related. Mine won't drop into 1st after being in park. My solution is to throw it in reverse, move a few inches, then into Drive, at which point it drops into 1st. You may be able to get silly lucky like me (for now) by throwing it in neutral, then reverse.... or into drive, and then reverse....
Nice score on the vehicle, though! Sounds like a good price!
- Thread starter
- #39
It only refused to drop into reverse that one time. All systems seem to be fine two days now.
Thanks for the egr tip, I will check that out and swap whatever I need to from my 94 before I take it in for smog testing.
Yeah, you made a good choice. I rather swap a engine, tranny & suspension any day over a new body. The thought of it boggles me, you would of need heavy equipment like a fork lift or a hoist the list goes on.
We side chated, but how long are you going to drive it stock till you start swapping suspension & armour over?
Did you have lockers or gears in the 94?
What will you do different this time?
We side chated, but how long are you going to drive it stock till you start swapping suspension & armour over?
Did you have lockers or gears in the 94?
What will you do different this time?
