Builds Recently acquired locked 94 build

[swankstar]

since everything was out, figured I should clean/fix/lube anything I could.

most of it was just disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling, with some replacing. as you would expect with an 80, literally every single system is designed to be disassembled without breaking anything. makes it really hard to own other vehicles after working on an 80.

took photos of everything as I disassembled to make sure I could assemble correctly. I have more but won't cloud the thread with all of them. if someone ever needs them just comment and I'll post.

as you can see, there was probably about 28 years of grime on these parts.

spent some time trying to source new flapper foam, found some that seems to work but haven't really tested yet. it is much denser than the OEM stuff so I'm not sure it will work or not.

mild soap and warm water was applied to all surfaces of all HVAC system surfaces, made them nice and shiny.

 

[swankstar]

just more grime/before pics

 

[swankstar]

started throwing some parts at it at this point. new evaporater unit and new fan.

parts diagram had this replacement fan as correct part number. will show in later post the issue I ran into with it (connector is different, I believe the fan is from a later application but it fits)

shows how nice the original plastic still is once all the grime is gone.

 

[swankstar]

how much gunk was left on the counter after disassembly (AFTER thorough cleaning before putting parts on the counter)

you can see the difference between the two connectors in this photo. original on right, two large blades in line with each other, new one on left, two smaller blades perpendicular to each other. I KNEW I had seen a connector like this before, laying around the shop, but couldn't find it.

close of up 94 connector

close up of new connector

went to junkyard, did some digging, found a connector that would work from a random fan. pretty sure this is simply a "fan connector" that has wide applications.

 

[swankstar]

new foam to seal the fresh air inlet to my new Solve Function cabin air filter

just can get over how nasty this evaporater unit was. looks like birds AND mice were nesting in there.

new valve on there too

new sensor because why not

all cleaned up and back together with as many new parts as I could get my hands on

 

[swankstar]

had planned to use this industrial power steering pump, but with time running out to get to Kokopelli at Cruise Moab, and this pump requiring a reservoir and other potential tuning/etc, I decided to go with the adapted cummins PS pump.

industrial pump that I would still like to make work since it could easily allow ram assist steering and maybe even a hydro winch.

along with PS pump I needed to get the hydro boost finalized. after some measurements I decided to cut the shaft of the hydro boost and weld the appropriate bolt to the shaft. this way all the OEM linkage stuff would just go right on there and allow adjustment as normal.

after installing the adapted pump I found a small clearance issue inside the red circle. this pump has two returns built in (one from brake unit, one from PS system, the cooler in this case), top one is green arrow and is supposed to come from brakes, bottom one is red arrow and is supposed to come from steering. the red arrow happens to be incredibly close to the steering shaft (so close I couldn't install the shaft with this setup). zero chance of the hose getting on there.

with pump off the engine, I was able to gently shape the return so it runs parallel to the steering shaft with plenty of clearance.

 

[swankstar]

also needed to test the new cross-member/skid plate to make sure it was going to work for Cummins swaps as well as OEM applications. can drop skid and keep trans mounted, which is handy for accessing t-case etc safely.

 

[swankstar]

back to interior, testing fitting all the cleaned/reassembled parts to make sure they fit as intended. then remove again and do a preliminary fit up of all the sound deadening (without completely adhering it to firewall), then temp install all the HVAC on top of it to make sure everything STILL fits (which it didn't, had to trim a couple spots), THEN final install of sound deadening, THEN final install of HVAC.

 

[swankstar]

something I wish I would have decided to try LONG ago, is using a holesaw on this stuff. super clean way to get penetrations.

hole and a slit, easy to get around harness, etc

you can tell where I figured that out...

 

[swankstar]

while I was working on all this, Patrick was working on making manual swap adapter for shifter console, using OEM seals and gaskets I found. also a t-case shifter mount for the NV400.

 

[swankstar]

onto getting turbo mounted. ended up with three different exhaust manifolds to try out.

this one would need a spacer plate but the turbo would already be sticking out of the hood...exhaust could snake it's way back though.

maybe this one??

well, now what? not really interested in running exhaust through the cab.

finally saw the solution late one evening after a lot of head scratching.

 

[swankstar]

lesson learned long ago, tack everything together and build as much of the system as you possibly can before final welding anything.

 

[swankstar]

got two turbine housings (one gated, one not) just in case I wasn't able to get the gated one to work or just needed to focus on other things, or whatever.

needed to adjust gated housing to match the non-gated one so downpipe would be interchangeable (little alignment lip inside, etc).

also wanted larger waste gate passage incase I decide to keep this engine and do a set of twin turbos. will need as much flow through that thing as possible. might even end up making a manifold and doing external gate, but this was out so may as well take care of it.

started downpipe too

2.5"-3" curved adapter, full exhaust will be 3" so wanted that as close to the turble as possible.

 

[FMC80]

also needed to test the new cross-member/skid plate to make sure it was going to work for Cummins swaps as well as OEM applications. can drop skid and keep trans mounted, which is handy for accessing t-case etc safely.

View attachment 3313902View attachment 3313903View attachment 3313904

Am I on drugs or am I hallucinating here? Thanks for the sneak peek

 

[swankstar]

printing designs on paper is a lot quicker than cutting metal to test fit stuff. wanted to get lower downpipe mount dialed before welding everything together.

once I get everything where I wanted and made sure there would be clearance for all the lines (except AC , that ones going to be tough) I went ahead and buttoned up the welding part

lot quicker to do aluminum than stainless so went with that for the intake. cheaper too.

since this is all getting replaced if the engine stays in when I have time to work out the twins and an intercooler, just went with super basic routing.

this was the scariest part, hood was at paint (and already overdue) when working on this section so couldn't know for sure if this would clear. (narrator: it didn't)

 

[swankstar]

Am I on drugs or am I hallucinating here? Thanks for the sneak peek

no comment on your state of mind

 

[swankstar]

do you even overland bro if you don't have a filter vacuum gauge?? temp air filter setup for the time being.

added EGT probe bung and while I hate hiding the stainless, the little crossover pipe is far too close to hood insulation to leave as is, so needed to wrap it.

day before Kokopelli starts, better pull the engine...

HUGE amount of little things like needing to add freeze plugs behind engine mounts, etc.

really glad I kept track of all this stuff and made lists of things that needed to happen. never would've remembered to do them had I not.

no heat or AC for the time being, but have the fittings in place for when that time comes.

even put some sound deadening on some parts of the engine to keep the high pitch stuff at bay

 

[swankstar]

sometimes being tired really sucks. just glad this happened with the engine on the hoist instead of in the rig.

pulling the injection pump that I had temp installed (for what reason I don't know) withOUT the a gasket, to put said gasket on.

heard a little *tinkle* as the pump was coming out of the gear. not the noise you want to hear when you're 5 minutes away from dropping engine back in to leave the next day. there is a keyway in the pump gear, and woodruff key aligns it with pump shaft. NOwhere to be found...

next step was to get the boroscope that I loaned out back to see if I could find it that way, no luck there either.

(sorry for bad quality pics, screenshots from video)

still had to put gasket on oil pan too, so that was first stop to hopefully find it just sitting there all pristine. no such luck.

last stop is to pull the timing cover. something that I consider last resort since it is sealed on there nice and tight. STILL CAN'T FIND IT WTF.

root cause of the problem was pulling pump when engine was not TDC. had I done that, woodruff key would've been facing up instead of down, non issue.

BUT WHY IS IT NOWHERE TO BE FOUND.

BECAUSE IT WASN'T EVEN IN THE ENGINE. best/worst experience so far...(that's the engine mount)

 

[swankstar]

a little out of order here, but these pics are next in line.

decided to swap a manual antenna in place since everything is apart and I will only be using this antenna is worst case scenario (what that scenario is I have no idea).

 

[swankstar]

got an el cheapo bulkhead connector on amazon that turned out to be pretty high quality. nice solid barrel connectors etc, impressed for 70$. this is to clean up all the passthrough wiring from lights, switchpro controls, gauges, temp sensors, you name it. lots of spots left blank on the engine bay side, but interior side is all finished with the wire bundle ending under the shifter console. I can junction from there if needed in the future.

can't afford the nice heat shrink boots, but at least got some strain relief in there.