- Thread starter
- #341
Love that side exit. Looks like an old Camaro or something. Do you have a build thread?
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Sure do! I've come a long way since then. Finished with swap #5 now and it's kind of fun to see how much more I know now compared to then. good times.
Cummins swap time!
My 1991 hdj81 I imported is getting a transplant! Rewind about a year, I had that bent timing belt idler on my california vacation. Replaced, ran great. I started noticing a slight bearing noise about 8 months later but it never got loud or bad. fast forward x amount of time, I was driving up...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #343
3d printed the geometry to check everything before cutting final alumnum parts, making a new topper for the fuel tank so I don't have to riskit that the drilled out banjo bolt will snap someday, or deal with the FASS sucking fuel out of the sump faster than the return can put it back.
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- #344
Full setup printed overnight. Need one adjustment then cut alumnum.
- Thread starter
- #345
I think it's going to work!
- Thread starter
- #346
Got a couple parts back from anodizing, valve cover and fuel filter delete. Pretty happy with how they turned out.
Went ahead and made a V2 of the tank lid as well. After printing V1 and playing with it decided to go back to my original idea. One piece design now.
Went ahead and made a V2 of the tank lid as well. After printing V1 and playing with it decided to go back to my original idea. One piece design now.
- Thread starter
- #347
Haven't test fit yet but got first engine mounts built.
- Thread starter
- #348
printed a test piece for the strain relief for fuel lines coming off the new tank lid. this will tie the lines together so they kinda act as each others strain relief. still contemplating making it attach to the tank lid for some serious reinforcement.
Are you going to make these available for sale?
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- #350
yes, Delta will have them available. First batch will be a handful of them since @Dirty Koala is waiting on one and at least one other has demanded one.
I will buy one if you make some and offer for sale.
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- #352
Sounds good
- Thread starter
- #353
First machined one, next tumble and anodize and engrave.
Outsane
Supporting Vendor
That's one very nice part!
can you provide color on why it "sucked" around town and on the freeways?
- Thread starter
- #356
I guess around town wasn’t so much the problem, but anything over 45mph and it just fell on its face. I was expecting much closer to 6bt type torque (for why I was expecting that, I’m not sure) and it definitely does not have that.
This motor is the same way I like my 6cylinders, head studs, coated pistons, medium towing type cam, oversized valves, porting the head, midsize injectors, plenty of fuel from the pump, etc. Lots of experience with that type of build and what to expect and how they should perform.
This behaved like none of what I expected. Once up to about 60mph on the freeway (and it took a while to get there), egt was directly connected to the pedal. It’s like it couldn’t get enough air. I was VERY tempted to try a small set of twins, have all the turbos to do it, but the damage put an end to that plan. I was convinced I could make it work and be usable, but I’m actually kind of glad it crapped put so I didn’t end up spending any more time on it. My conclusion is basically the same as the 2.8, not good for an 80. Probably fine in something lightweight, but not for a built rig on large tires.
One of the experiments I did was trying three different t-case gear sets (stock, 10% under, 10% over), each with two different size tires (35 and 37). What I settled on was 10% underdrive with 37s. I was able to cruise at 65-70, and didn’t have to worry about melting anything as long as I was on flat ground. As soon as I hit a 1-2% grade, it was down to 4th gear, sometimes even 3rd in order to get enough air through the poor thing.
Definitely had more to experiment with to see if I could make it drivable, but was already at the point of thinking “why bother”.
Really looking forward to getting it back on the road with more cylinders now.
- Thread starter
- #357
Most of my time on this project lately has been spent working on engine harness and engine harness accessories.
Since the ecm has to move out the way of engine mounts, had to find a good way to mount that then make sure the harness would still work (it didn’t, at least not well enough). Since I was in the zone of making ecm mount work, I went down a rabbit hole of making a harness chase kit to complement the ecm mount, keeping everything secure and clean.
In the process of making harness chase kit, I realized how much easier it might be with 6.7L fuel system components. Found some of those and started mocking things up, then realized the intake plate needed to change for that to work. Hunted one of those down and all associated parts for grid heater from an industrial application for what is turning into a pretty tight package.
The harness has been on and off the engine a bunch of times getting lengths figured out, have been de-pinning, re-pinning, breaking, and fixing the painless harness enough that now it’s probably going to just be easier to make a standalone harness from scratch. Still not 100% sure on that, but leaning pretty hard in that direction. There really only are two super frustrating things about the painless harness, everything else is as expected:
1. The cheap crimp connectors they use. They are probably totally fine for 99.9% of installs because nobody is changing anything. If you need to depin anything though, good luck. The depin tool (a small plastic thing) will get caught on the part of the crimp that wraps around the insulation and get absolutely shredded. Typical to go through 3 depin tools PER CONNECTOR, PER DEPIN, which is totally ridiculous. Any pin that comes out gets replaced with a nice machined deutsch barrel connector before going back in. Did lots of testing after putting one of those on, the depin tool can easily remove those over and over again without any damage.
2. They decided to splice wires in the harness in the worst way possible, to save a few cents they splice where a bundle changes direction/splits/randomly/whatever. So for an alternate routing there is a lot of untangling and changing of lengths and new terminals are needed…etc…etc……etc. Giving me headache.
3. Did I mention I don’t like wiring?
Anyways, picture time.
Taking stuff apart
Figuring out lengths
Hopefully this stuff isn’t needed
Making new bits to use different sensors
End of plastic tool after getting it on with one of the sheetmetal crimp on connectors. No longer useful.
Since the ecm has to move out the way of engine mounts, had to find a good way to mount that then make sure the harness would still work (it didn’t, at least not well enough). Since I was in the zone of making ecm mount work, I went down a rabbit hole of making a harness chase kit to complement the ecm mount, keeping everything secure and clean.
In the process of making harness chase kit, I realized how much easier it might be with 6.7L fuel system components. Found some of those and started mocking things up, then realized the intake plate needed to change for that to work. Hunted one of those down and all associated parts for grid heater from an industrial application for what is turning into a pretty tight package.
The harness has been on and off the engine a bunch of times getting lengths figured out, have been de-pinning, re-pinning, breaking, and fixing the painless harness enough that now it’s probably going to just be easier to make a standalone harness from scratch. Still not 100% sure on that, but leaning pretty hard in that direction. There really only are two super frustrating things about the painless harness, everything else is as expected:
1. The cheap crimp connectors they use. They are probably totally fine for 99.9% of installs because nobody is changing anything. If you need to depin anything though, good luck. The depin tool (a small plastic thing) will get caught on the part of the crimp that wraps around the insulation and get absolutely shredded. Typical to go through 3 depin tools PER CONNECTOR, PER DEPIN, which is totally ridiculous. Any pin that comes out gets replaced with a nice machined deutsch barrel connector before going back in. Did lots of testing after putting one of those on, the depin tool can easily remove those over and over again without any damage.
2. They decided to splice wires in the harness in the worst way possible, to save a few cents they splice where a bundle changes direction/splits/randomly/whatever. So for an alternate routing there is a lot of untangling and changing of lengths and new terminals are needed…etc…etc……etc. Giving me headache.
3. Did I mention I don’t like wiring?
Anyways, picture time.
Taking stuff apart
Figuring out lengths
Hopefully this stuff isn’t needed
Making new bits to use different sensors
End of plastic tool after getting it on with one of the sheetmetal crimp on connectors. No longer useful.
- Thread starter
- #358
Tank lids came back from anodizing. Look and feel is quite nice. Need to laser etch them next with ins/outs/returns/etc next.
- Thread starter
- #359
getting closer, little by little
FMC80
SILVER Star
Looks stout!
