Rebuilding My Engine! (1 Viewer)

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Yes sir! Going on 8 years. My blog is www.offroadvegan.com. Lots of trail reviews, restaurant stuff etc.

Trail reviews: Drive Over this Stuff | Off-road Vegan
I’m a carnivore who also eats green leafy things. I don’t have a blog concerning my eating habits but I do a pretty good job of burning steaks on my grill. I love animals, they are delicious.

Your 1fz-fe is just an engine not a steak so there is nothing to be overwhelmed about. Good luck.
 
Nice. I've been vegetarian my whole life. Usually, you don't find to many veggies that 4wheel.

Awesome! You’d be surprised how many people actually are. I get contacted all the time through my blog from fellow wheelers around the world that are vegan or veg.
 
From Doc Hollywood: At one point Hank Gordon says, "I don't trust a man who doesn't eat meat." In real-life, Woody Harrelson is a vegan.
 
Well, I’m not a vegan, but I have eaten cows who were...
 
Hook up your hoist, remove pass side motor mount and bracket, once that side is out start to lift the engine just a little , have the flywheel unbolted from the torque, and have the cross member loose with a jack supporting the tranny then start to lift, undo the motor mount on driver side but not the bracket, get engine just high enough to pop out the motor mount you will have to twist and manipulate the engine some. Once the mount is out lower the engine down to where the pan almost touchs axle then you'll have access to the top two tranny bolts. Pull the driver bracket off once engine is out. Or you can get flex socket and long extension and fish them up on two bolts. If you pull the head you can get the top two bolts pretty easy.
 
I've only done this once on an 80, but had super-expert help ;). While we went the route of disconnecting the engine from the tranny - those top two bolts were about as challenging as anything I've done in many decades of wrenching. If you go that route, use very long 1/2" extensions. I think I ganged up about 30" worth. 3/8" won't work at all due to flex and excessive windup. Ditto for using an impact gun - even with 1/2" extensions, the long reach means there's too much twist for the impact gun to have much, well, impact.

If I were to do this again, I'd seriously consider pulling the engine with the tranny attached. It's huge, it's heavy, but I think the body contortions for this job might be easier. It'll require a heavy-duty hoist, and plenty of ceiling clearance if you're doing this in a garage.

Ditto on the advice to remove the crank pulley bolt on the front of the engine before pulling the engine. I didn't, but I have a pretty good impact gun at my disposal.

Other than that, take your time, take lots of photos, be organized and get the FSM.
 
I feel a little overwhelmed right now and wish I didn't start this.

Looks like you are doing fine already. I labeled and bagged like you on my first rebuild and used shoe boxes to organize in groups. You have way more advantages over when I did it; MUD, internet, FSM access, and I was only 13. You are clearly prepping for success so I wouldn't worry.

2. I removed all the hoses including ALL the little vacuum lines. I'd like to replace them all.

I bought a spool of 3.5mm ID... someone else on here can confirm the size, but you are looking to change it at the right time (while you in there).
 
Hook up your hoist, remove pass side motor mount and bracket, once that side is out start to lift the engine just a little , have the flywheel unbolted from the torque, and have the cross member loose with a jack supporting the tranny then start to lift, undo the motor mount on driver side but not the bracket, get engine just high enough to pop out the motor mount you will have to twist and manipulate the engine some. Once the mount is out lower the engine down to where the pan almost touchs axle then you'll have access to the top two tranny bolts. Pull the driver bracket off once engine is out. Or you can get flex socket and long extension and fish them up on two bolts. If you pull the head you can get the top two bolts pretty easy.
Also, after unbolting the torque converter, push the torque converter back as far as you can. If you pick up on the engine too much with the converter pilot still in the crank pilot insert, you can snap it off. Then you'll have to PM me for info on a shop here in Denver that will sell you a torque converter for a reasonable price.
 
Also, after unbolting the torque converter, push the torque converter back as far as you can. If you pick up on the engine too much with the converter pilot still in the crank pilot insert, you can snap it off. Then you'll have to PM me for info on a shop here in Denver that will sell you a torque converter for a reasonable price.
If you lift just enough to slide out the mount you won't break the nipple, but def something to consider , also the tranny will rise up a hair why you support with jack
 
Also, after unbolting the torque converter, push the torque converter back as far as you can. If you pick up on the engine too much with the converter pilot still in the crank pilot insert, you can snap it off. Then you'll have to PM me for info on a shop here in Denver that will sell you a torque converter for a reasonable price.

I can get a TC cost effective here :eek:
 
I just finished my 2nd 1fz rebuild this week, have now done it once by pulling just the engine and once with the driveline as a whole (which i recommend, even with just a hf crane on the 1/4 ton setting). Feel free to call me, I've got a week before school starts back up and would be happy to share my experience
Drew
801821959seven

Ps as the others have said, you're doing great so far
 
I just finished my 2nd 1fz rebuild this week, have now done it once by pulling just the engine and once with the driveline as a whole (which i recommend, even with just a hf crane on the 1/4 ton setting). Feel free to call me, I've got a week before school starts back up and would be happy to share my experience
Drew
801821959seven

Ps as the others have said, you're doing great so far

Thanks! Did you outsource the rebuild?
 
Thanks! Did you outsource the rebuild?
Kind of...had a shop rebuild the head and do the crank and pistons, but then I did the rest of the engine assembly (head on block, timing/oil stuff, flywheel, etc)
 
Well....engine has been rebuilt and reinstalled! I ended up having the shop install it for warranty sake. Total investment is $3200. Cylinders were bored .20 over. I also bought all new alternator, starter, fuel filter, water pump, and typical tune up components.

Tomorrow I pick it up!

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Drove the 80 home today from the shop. I can only assume it is how that engine felt off the dealer lot. Everything just feels "tight." Responsive. Quiet. It's very strange. Idles so calmly now. I have not really gotten "on it" yet, (only 30 miles on the rebuild) but what a difference so far. Hope I am not jinxing anything, but so far, really impressed.

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