rebuilding a 40 in a one car garage

[waiting for time]

As stated a lot of work has been done, looks like a mod to the brake master cylinder...engine looks good.

Dwight

Yeah, the other one has good 33's and I got an extra set of 35's with it.
Master is new, there is a new Weber carb on and both rigs have ps, I think its original 40 maybe you guys can tell.

 

[bikersmurf]

You might want to find/rent some more storage space to get some of the things you're not working on out of the way so that you don't spend 1/2 an hour moving things around so you can do 20 minutes work.

I'm not complaining either. Also bought a few houses, a couple of motorcycles, and a Gt6 project car amongst other things.

Rebuilding a car that arrived in boxes can take up some time... But can be fun.

 

[waiting for time]

Are you married to MY WIFE!?!?!?;p
The rig looks great.
Im a little baffled by the GLUING of the steel. That just seems odd somehow. If it worked, I guess that you cant argue with that, but...Cant wait to see what you come up with.
Im SOOOOOO glad Im past that point of doing the body panels. Got a TWITCH just looking at the pics of that. GAWD how I HATE SHEET METAL work.

Good luck!

Keith

Thanks Keith, I'm more of a mechanics guy and have litlle experiance with metal work. I have some different idea's of how to build this new rear so I might surprise or shock you.
I just decided its not going to run for a while so better think twice and work once, did it the other way arround up til now so taking my time now. As soon as the tub is in one peace I want to take it off to do a propper finish on the bottom, we get a lot of salt in wintertime, and make shure the frame is well preserved.
And on the subject of glueing there are not many welds on an airplane.

 

[tmarx]

Good luck Michael !

 

[waiting for time]

Thanks Theo, I am afraid I'm going to need it.

 

[waiting for time]

Bolted the barn doors in to see if they fit, pillars where to short and the rear sill did not have the cut out for the door seal.
So I braced the rear, cut the pillars out and made new one's.
Put one in and the other has to wait for the floor.

Also cut out the top of the sill.

 

[waiting for time]

You might want to find/rent some more storage space to get some of the things you're not working on out of the way so that you don't spend 1/2 an hour moving things around so you can do 20 minutes work.

I'm not complaining either. Also bought a few houses, a couple of motorcycles, and a Gt6 project car amongst other things.

Rebuilding a car that arrived in boxes can take up some time... But can be fun.

Sorry, mist this one this morning, I did rent a storage space to put the wheels one spare 33 set and a 35 set. This is also the place the side's of the hard top will go after fixing the corners and I don't need them for tub corrections. Currently it is set-up for 1 minute working out of the way and 10 minutes cleaning up. work time in the midlle. Did the car from boxes before about 15 years ago with a Jaguar mk2 so the cruiser will work out to.

 

[waiting for time]

Made some temp brackets to adjust the center portion of the tub in height.
Later I will fab up some brackets to go under the beam.

 

[waiting for time]

Startechange the frame for the cargo floor. First used the old frame and adapted it for the pre '79 floor. Later redid the the frame and made a new one only using the front, lower, portion of the previous one. Also made an under floor storage in the back.
Need the height for my wife's saddle, explanation will folow later.

 

[waiting for time]

and the pictures.........

 

[waiting for time]

I could use some input here

Oke I have the following idea for the fender/wheel well.
I don't want the overlaping metal like the original set up, its just waiting for rust to creap in without knowing its there. This is what I came up with, let me know what you think.

I also made some brackets to help me weld the plates to each other.

 

[waiting for time]

and an other question

I would like the rear axle a little bit more backwards what is the best way to do this without getting into to many mods.
Like to keep the shock mounts at the same place because of the rear storage compartment.

 

[KY Longhunter]

I read somewhere if you turn your rear springs around you can push the rear axle back a few inches, but Im not an expert.

Not sure if the driveshaft would need to be modified if so...

 

[waiting for time]

I read somewhere if you turn your rear springs around you can push the rear axle back a few inches, but Im not an expert.

Not sure if the driveshaft would need to be modified if so...

What does that do with the shock mounts?

 

[KY Longhunter]

The way I understand this one side of the spring is longer than the other. Long side goes towards the shackle.

By flipping so short side goes towards the shackle the center pin on spring moves backwards 1+ inch.

As far as the shock mounts, I guess you might have to modify upper shock mount attached to crossmember.



(again, I'm no expert and just read this somewhere...)

 

[chicago]

What does that do with the shock mounts?

You COULD set your shock mounts outboard from where they are now. Like towards the ends of the housing. That storage deal really bungs up any mobility of that axle rear ward.

 

[waiting for time]

You COULD set your shock mounts outboard from where they are now. Like towards the ends of the housing. That storage deal really bungs up any mobility of that axle rear ward.

I don't quite understand, do you mean change the position of the shock mount and to where?

Here is the current situation.

 

[waiting for time]

In the current figuration the tyre fits a bit close to the cross beam the PO put in there.

 

[KY Longhunter]

I think Chicago and I are referring to top shock to frame mount.

 

[waiting for time]

Here are some pic's of the frame I coocked up to support the floor. The parts sticking out on the rear are for supporting the rear of the cage in a later stage.