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- #41
Where should that be moved too, or can I leave it in its place and just give it a small angle?
rebuilding a 40 in a one car garage
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Where should that be moved too, or can I leave it in its place and just give it a small angle?
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- #42
Here is a corner of the hard top repaired and one of the new wheel well sides. I had to get the angle in front from the inside cover of the fuell filler.
I would think you could leave it in place or fab out something...dunno?
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- #44
I will give the spring flip a go and will see if it works out with the stock upper shock position.
If anybody has some experience with this I would apreciate some info.
Thanx.........
Flipping the springs will move the axle 3-4" rearward. i dont think that will work with your storage compartment. The top shock mount can be changed by reversing the pins. (make them point to the rear)
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- #46
Thanks,
I was afraid of that, don't have the room to mount the shocks on the rear of the tube, I need the space in the back.
Is it possible to rotate the bottom mounts? Just a thought.
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- #47
Wel decided not to change the position of the rear axle, it will be less work to cut out on the beam if it becomes a problem.
Okay...
So you have your shock mounts on the x member and on the axle.
What I am saying is move the upper and lower shock mounts further OUT from the center line of the rig.
So you would abandon the stock mounts and make new ones away from the center line.
I looks to me like you could keep the same angle on the shocks and move the uppers enough to clear the storage bin.
I hope this is making sense....you would most likely have to get a different lower mount that mounts to the axle as opposed to the factory method.
Then....you could cut off the stock LOWER perch and get a set of 3 postion hole perches that will allow you to move JUST THE AXLE back an inch or two. Ruff stuff sells these and are what I had used in my build.
Clear as MUD!!?!?
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- #50
Okay...
So you have your shock mounts on the x member and on the axle.
What I am saying is move the upper and lower shock mounts further OUT from the center line of the rig.
So you would abandon the stock mounts and make new ones away from the center line.
I looks to me like you could keep the same angle on the shocks and move the uppers enough to clear the storage bin.
I hope this is making sense....you would most likely have to get a different lower mount that mounts to the axle as opposed to the factory method.
Then....you could cut off the stock LOWER perch and get a set of 3 postion hole perches that will allow you to move JUST THE AXLE back an inch or two. Ruff stuff sells these and are what I had used in my build.
Clear as MUD!!?!?
Thanx, I understand what you mean. Will hold out with that untill the Tub is solid again and taken off the frame, decide then if it is neccesary.
I tried to do some photo art on the computer with YOUR photo, but I couldnt get it to post on the board here. Just a chicken scratch deal to get a better idea. However, if you got the idea Ill spare you the Chicago art.
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- #52
Thank you, I will messure tomorow if I have enough clearence on the lower mounts to clear the storage bin. Wil post up some pics of todays progress.
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- #53
Started on the wheel well, made the upper part of the fender / top wheel well combination. Still have to trim it to size, got the cuve in do.
Wow, building a tub from scratch, you need to be a experienced welder to keep the surface of the sheetmetal smooth!
It seems to me you are doing a great job welding it together.
When I purchased my 79FJ40 it only came with a semi-weathered bestop dualtop. Pretty soon after that I decided I had to buy a decent hardtop, but where we live they are nowhere to be found( I live about 10 km's from you). So I went to plan B, I had to fabricate it myself ...... I almost did .... untill I found a pretty decent and overcomplete hardtop with glass and everything for only 600 euro's!
Now, a year later I'm stilll driving with softtop because it feels warmer in winter and stays much cooler in summer !!!!
Good luck with your "one of a kind" build and I hope to see you driving it in the area soon!!!
Marc
It seems to me you are doing a great job welding it together.
When I purchased my 79FJ40 it only came with a semi-weathered bestop dualtop. Pretty soon after that I decided I had to buy a decent hardtop, but where we live they are nowhere to be found( I live about 10 km's from you). So I went to plan B, I had to fabricate it myself ...... I almost did .... untill I found a pretty decent and overcomplete hardtop with glass and everything for only 600 euro's!
Now, a year later I'm stilll driving with softtop because it feels warmer in winter and stays much cooler in summer !!!!
Good luck with your "one of a kind" build and I hope to see you driving it in the area soon!!!
Marc
- Thread starter
- #55
Thanx, nice to see a fellow Mudder in the neighbourhood, you should drop by some time, PM me.
The part on the expert welder you can leave out, still learning but there is a lot of help from the guys on Mud.
Driving will take a while, work and
are keeping me bussy, have to go on vacation tomorrow and after that one week hard work and then off to the UK for recruitment followed by a company weekend. This will give me exactly one day for working on the cruiser.A well that is life.
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- #56
So back from holiday I actualy had an hour to look at some idea's I had for making reinforcements on the wheel well to accomidate a cage in the future.
I want to keep things as smooth as possible inside the WW to give rust as little chanche as possible.
I'm planning on making a two layer front off the weel with ribs inside. It will be 3 cm thick so it will connect smooth with the cross beam. I will cut out a part of the beam to give the tyres more room. Than put a plate on top from back to front and let it stick out a bit on the front so the center pillar of the cage will be more in the middle of the tub, makes the back look a bit longer.
Made some drawings to give you an idea.
I want to keep things as smooth as possible inside the WW to give rust as little chanche as possible.
I'm planning on making a two layer front off the weel with ribs inside. It will be 3 cm thick so it will connect smooth with the cross beam. I will cut out a part of the beam to give the tyres more room. Than put a plate on top from back to front and let it stick out a bit on the front so the center pillar of the cage will be more in the middle of the tub, makes the back look a bit longer.
Made some drawings to give you an idea.
nice man i like it
I know but these guys/girls where not married to my
Don't get me wrong, she is great but has a problem with things not looking perfect.
Thanks, I hope it pleases you guys as much as I like to roam arround MUD.
Just found your thread and was reading along until something pissed me off. I didn't know my wife was married to someone else at the same time. We are going to have to have a talk tonight
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- #59
Got some steel today so I can add a litlle weight to the rig.
Made a floor to fit the frame and storage.
Now its cutting out the storage hole, mocking up, cleaning, painting (primer) and welding.
pics should give you an idea. third pic shows the cut out area for storage.
Made a floor to fit the frame and storage.
Now its cutting out the storage hole, mocking up, cleaning, painting (primer) and welding.
pics should give you an idea. third pic shows the cut out area for storage.
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- #60
And to continue floor with sides.
Won't be working much on it next week due to work hope to have a few hours on friday.
Won't be working much on it next week due to work hope to have a few hours on friday.
