Builds Rebuild of Trusty (4 Viewers)

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Can I buy the dash pad support parts you removed ?
I pretty much destroyed it getting the spot welds to break and took to the dump this morning.
 
Got home from Nebraska yesterday and worked on the PS plumbing today, got the LP hoses hooked up to the steering box, cooler and the reservoir .

Got the adapter fittings for the steering box that fit the box and 6AN fittings.

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16mm to 6AN fitting in in place

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Made up line from the LP side of the steering box to the cooler

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Made up the hose from the cooler to the reservoir

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Had to order HP fittings for the hose I have to connect the pump to the steering box. I have a back up hose for 6JIC if needed but will have to get different fittings to connect the hose if I need it.
 
Last night I went out an got the fuel door open that I lost the key to sometime since 1991 which was that last time I put gas in the tank.

Just took a little light prying with a screw driver once I got it started with my knife.

Today I took a hammer and chisel and slid the spring clip and removed the lock.

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Now ready for new lock
 
I tried to install the new lock in the fuel door and it is too short to reach.

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I am going to replace the upper steering column bearing so started taking the ignition barrel housing, removed the 3 screws for the retainer plate

Removed the retaining screw for the 4 wire ignition switch

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Removed the 4 wire switch

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After looking on line how to get the housing off I found a post that Poser responded to and he said there is a snap ring under that retainer. I got it clean enough to see and got it out of the groove with snap ring pliers and a small screw driver

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Removed the 3 retaining bolts from the back of the housing and took some prying to get the housing the bearing to slide but was flexing the fire wall and moved everything up to the steering box. But it came off.

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Set the housing on the vise to knock out the bearing which did not take much.

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The old ignition barrel that I have lost the key for sometime since 1991 and is a 4 wire barrel

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Old and new ignition barrels

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Set up the housing to drill the end off of the pin in the hole

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Grabbed a bit smaller then the existing hole and drilled the end of the pin off and started removing the barrel

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Removed the barrel

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Used the key to put the barrel in ACC and they lined up the slot and pin to hole and installed the new barrel
Pin engaged

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In lock position to engage with the 5 wire switch. Have to connect the new plug to the wiring harness and the glow plug wire to the power input of the heating grid.

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Post 334 Make a new tab for the fuel door lock. Put in an offset ( Z to get the locking part the right distance in. You could also slide the covers off the pins and move them over to the old assembly if the key will fit and the body is good.
I was thinking about making a longer tab and bending it.

I should not have to it is brand new lock that came with the set.
 
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I have reached out to Toyota Matt with photos an a receipt that I bought the lock from him.

He asked for more photos and had questions that nothing to do with this one lock that came in this kit. The left is the new one and the right is the original.

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Distance needed to reach the striker

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new barrel length

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Installed the switch and the key goes in in the Lock position and when the key is turned toward glow I can feel the spring. Turned to ACC that lines up, then Run and finally can feel the spring in the Start position.
I got the timing right when I installed the barrel into the housing. Now the fun begins becaue the wire color code is not the same to put the new plug on the wiring harness.

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