Got home from Nebraska yesterday and worked on the PS plumbing today, got the LP hoses hooked up to the steering box, cooler and the reservoir .
Got the adapter fittings for the steering box that fit the box and 6AN fittings.
16mm to 6AN fitting in in place
Made up line from the LP side of the steering box to the cooler
Made up the hose from the cooler to the reservoir
Had to order HP fittings for the hose I have to connect the pump to the steering box. I have a back up hose for 6JIC if needed but will have to get different fittings to connect the hose if I need it.
I tried to install the new lock in the fuel door and it is too short to reach.
I am going to replace the upper steering column bearing so started taking the ignition barrel housing, removed the 3 screws for the retainer plate
Removed the retaining screw for the 4 wire ignition switch
Removed the 4 wire switch
After looking on line how to get the housing off I found a post that Poser responded to and he said there is a snap ring under that retainer. I got it clean enough to see and got it out of the groove with snap ring pliers and a small screw driver
Removed the 3 retaining bolts from the back of the housing and took some prying to get the housing the bearing to slide but was flexing the fire wall and moved everything up to the steering box. But it came off.
Set the housing on the vise to knock out the bearing which did not take much.
The old ignition barrel that I have lost the key for sometime since 1991 and is a 4 wire barrel
Set up the housing to drill the end off of the pin in the hole
Grabbed a bit smaller then the existing hole and drilled the end of the pin off and started removing the barrel
Removed the barrel
Used the key to put the barrel in ACC and they lined up the slot and pin to hole and installed the new barrel
Pin engaged
In lock position to engage with the 5 wire switch. Have to connect the new plug to the wiring harness and the glow plug wire to the power input of the heating grid.
Post 334 Make a new tab for the fuel door lock. Put in an offset ( Z to get the locking part the right distance in. You could also slide the covers off the pins and move them over to the old assembly if the key will fit and the body is good.
Post 334 Make a new tab for the fuel door lock. Put in an offset ( Z to get the locking part the right distance in. You could also slide the covers off the pins and move them over to the old assembly if the key will fit and the body is good.
I have reached out to Toyota Matt with photos an a receipt that I bought the lock from him.
He asked for more photos and had questions that nothing to do with this one lock that came in this kit. The left is the new one and the right is the original.
Distance needed to reach the striker
new barrel length
Installed the switch and the key goes in in the Lock position and when the key is turned toward glow I can feel the spring. Turned to ACC that lines up, then Run and finally can feel the spring in the Start position.
I got the timing right when I installed the barrel into the housing. Now the fun begins becaue the wire color code is not the same to put the new plug on the wiring harness.
Yesterday I got the HP fittings from PSC and put the 90 degree fitting on the hose after some trial and error to get the outer part of the fitting to go on to the hose to the shoulder by pealing the rubber down to steel mesh.
Didn't take phots yesterday for the 90 fitting but took phots of the 45 for the pump end. The soft jaws helped a lot getting the fitting on the hose.
Pulled the banjo bolt and fitting to connect to the 45 on the hose. Of course the washer on the pump side dropped but found it and cleaned it off.
Got the hose connected to the hose and put the banjo fitting on the pump
Connected the 90 to the steering box HP input
New steering column upper bearing and the grease used to pack it. The grease is supposed to stay put and not melt up to 400F so the summer heat inside wont make it run and wont freeze down to -25F
Got a kit with different hole saws and opened up the jack handle holder to 1.5" so I don't need ty wrap to keep the jack handle up right. Just a little snug and because of the reach getting it to fit I used a rubber mallet to seat it on the jack.
Made up the last hose for the suction from the reservoir to the inlet of the pump and got connected. Things are getting tight.
Installed the turn signal/high beam switch with M5-.8 x 5/8" Allen head bolts.
Measured the contact rings on the FJ40 and FJ70 steering wheels and they are the same. I need to insert roll pins for cancel the turn signals in the FJ70 wheel.
Did a test fit of the FJ70 wheel and no adapter are need the splines are the same on the either wheel and the column shaft.
Measured the contact rings on the FJ40 and FJ70 steering wheels and they are the same. I need to insert roll pins for cancel the turn signals in the FJ70 wheel.
Doing a little perusing on Ebay, and I think it's more likely an FJ60 steering wheel? Maybe for a different country? Or at least that's how I found it there... all the 70 series steering wheels had 3 spokes instead of 2... Either way, looks great, and may look at doing something similar.
Doing a little perusing on Ebay, and I think it's more likely an FJ60 steering wheel? Maybe for a different country? Or at least that's how I found it there... all the 70 series steering wheels had 3 spokes instead of 2... Either way, looks great, and may look at doing something similar.
Of all the LC steering wheels I looked at I liked this one the best regardless of which sires it is from. I did not want another 3 spoke that caught my eye when I bought it.
I ordered a full set of mirrors from Ebay and the day night rear view mirror was delivered today so when out and installed it.
I had to take down the shelf I install decades ago to access the two mounting screws. I will clean up later and put back up.
It has been a very long time since I had to drive it at night but remembered that it was a PITA with someone following me at night.