Builds Rebuild of Trusty (13 Viewers)

[Greek Cruiserhead]

Congrats on your new mirors mate!
These are the "European" type. They are more expensive than the type they are replacing: do they are better?

 

[POPO AGIE]

Congrats on your new mirors mate!
These are the "European" type. They are more expensive than the type they are replacing: do they are better?

The outer mirrors have not arrived yet from Japan.

I am hoping they are better the original mirrors. They would not stay adjusted and broke easy.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Started getting fittings to use -8 AN hose from the new tank to the Cummins filter head.

Found the installation kit for the tank right where I left it inside the RJ40. Then cleaned out all the parts and started wire wheeling the floor and vacuumed it.

Ordered 3 cans of Raptor Liner from NAPA that may be here on Tuesday from Billings, MT.

Took out a fitting to take measurements to order AN fittings. With the measurements and tread gauge looks like M14-1.5. Dont want the QD fittings and looking through the manual it shows they are 19.5 mm hose barb fittings so will use -8AN fittings and hose. If there was room I would do a dual filter set up.

Removed the filler neck and will replace because one screw would not take a phillips and it was rusty inside, also removed the venting system and will replace the hoses or the entire assembly.

Everything taken out to start cleaning

 

[POPO AGIE]

Stripped everything on the floor that will be covered up by the new tank.

Fan and motor removed

Removed the heater

Heater and fan house out

 

[POPO AGIE]

Cleaned up the old gasket for the block off plate

Removed the old duct

Removed the carb fan controls

Controls for carb fan

 

[POPO AGIE]

Carb fan controls before removal, email is slow.

Installed the block off cover. The holes did not line up with bolt holes in the fire wall so used a step bit on the upper bolts.

Covered up the gear boxes before cleaning the floor

 

[POPO AGIE]

After cleaning with a wire wheel and vacuum sprayed the floor from the area under the new tank up to the fire wall with a primer paint

Didn't use the same colors because it was what I had and will spray with Raptor liner when I comes in.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Picked up the 3 spray cans of Raptor liner at NAPA and was the right amount and have some left over. Did 2 coats then used my flash light on high beam and touched up anywhere I could still see color through it. I should have used a light color for the base.

Got it all sprayed and found out that the fuel lines and tank sending unit wires will need new holes closer to the the transmission cover and pulled the wires back out and touched up there. Went back and touch up any where that needed more.

Masked off the joint area for the cover before spraying

Making sure I had room to slid the new tank in after I put the down the rubber strips.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Cut the rubber strips and glued to the floor with supper 77 and allowed the glue to set up then set the tank in. Used the map provided in the instructions for where to put the rubber strips. One piece was for the original hole where the fuel lines and wiring for the fuel sending unit. Will have to drill new holes for the wire and fuel lines. The strips are also shims so the ones on the rips are 1 layer and the the ones in the low areas are 2 layers.

Set up for transferring the tank from the cart to the interior.

Slid inside off of the cart

 

[POPO AGIE]

Used a short 2x4 as a lever to get the long 2x4s out from under the tank and set down on the floor.

Centered some what and pushed back up against the riser. But will wait until I get the filler neck and parts arrive and modify the filler neck and hooked up then drill the four holes where the welded on tabs reach the floor and shim with the provided shims in the kit.

Installed the fittings into the tank and used supplied new hoses and started hooking up the vapor separator. Will shorten the hoses once all the new parts are here. I also found the cover but cant install until the new filler neck and rubber elbow are installed.
Connected the vapor separator to the vacuum line penetratingly the floor that has not been connected to the charcoal canister for decades when I removed the emissions junk.

Rounded up the set support frame parts that will need to be modified and haven't found the bracket that supported the outside front corner of the passenger seat. The center section needs to be cleaned an painted but have to modify it as per the instructions. The tank is so big that the support of the DS set had to be deleted since the take covers the area it was located.

Part 53 is missing and still looking for but may be able to modify part 55 for the passenger side.

I walked out to the barn to look one more time and walked right up to the missing bracket right where I left it. I may not have to raise the seats to clear the tank. There is plenty of clearance under the bracket and the top of the tank.

I still have to modify the frame to support the DS. The instruction show cutting the center section and over lapping another section of square tubing that extends towards the door.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Since the paint is already getting scratched on the tank I ordered 2 more cans of Raptor Liner to do the sides and top wont worry about the bottom it sits on the rubber. I will cover the gear boxes again and spray in place.

One mirror showed up from Japan so put it together and mounted even though the price was good and said 4 pieces they sent 1. Since it has springs in the door mount and where the arm attaches to the head they should not go out of adjustment like the original did. Cant adjust the spring compression in the door mount but you can adjust the nut for the head. The shell for the mirror head is plastic and may not work with rock strikes very well.

Since I had a little Raptor Liner left over I sprayed the vapor separator covers

Cleaned and painted the PS support leg and the center support after I tried to straighten the two kinks out. Took to NAPA and we put in there vise and got some out. Then came home and set up on timbers and beat on it with my 20# sledge.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Raptor lined the new tank and set back down waiting for parts to get it connected to the filler.

Got some over spray to add to the patina

The mirror gaskets showed up and installed under the new mirror and on the other door so I don't loose it waiting for next mirror.

After discussing with Toyota Matt about wiring pigtail for the LED light that came with my 4 Plus tire carrier for the license plate He as the plate fixture and LED lights and make up a pigtail to reach back through the door and connect. The original looks pretty rough and getting it refurbished I am money ahead get everything from Matt.
I was going to make a mount with some 16 gage and when I got back there I found the center flat bar on the basket was the right size for the mount on the plate carrier. So between welding magnets and a vice grip I got it where it needed to be to use my transfer punch for the 3 bolt holes and drilled the holes to mount.

My Son wants me to save the plate.

The light that came with the tire carrier I will put on the new metal dash so I have a light for the controls on the dash.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Bolted down the support leg on the PS and shows the clearance over the tank. Yesterday I went over it with a wire wheel then shot it with paint and today I shot it with Raptor liner for more protection. The salt now in some places and getting in and out with wet boots I felt they needed the added protection.

Then after straightening the center support as much as possible and painted it, today I bolted the PS down and then checked what needs to happen on the DS. I need to cut and rotate the leg 90* either forward or to the rear to clear the tank. Once the DS of the support is cut I can rotate the center into alignment for the seats.

There is plenty of surface on the floor either in front of the tank or inside the cut out section of the tank to bolt to the floor.

 

[POPO AGIE]

After getting my work truck serviced I came back and put up 2 panels from the Cummins shipping crate. One with R2.8 and the other on I attached a poster CCOT sent me.

Titled FJ40s are Rocky Mountain Tough

Then I started working on the filler neck. First I had to get the flapper out so that a diesel nozzle would fit. This truck never had a Cat but had stickers for unleaded gas but the manual said I could run any gas. At that time unleaded was hard to come by in 1978 and it was my daily driver and had to get the piece out that necked it down for the unleaded nozzle. I knew the new on would have the flapper and necked down for unleaded and I need a diesel nozzle to fit.

Before. I should have just reused the old one.

That tab needed cut so I used my die grinder and squared off birr bit and just worked on the first layer.

After knocking it out

 

[POPO AGIE]

After getting it out

The tank instructions said to cut 15 mm of the end of the filler neck and I ended up cutting at least 2" to get the tank and filler neck to line up. I ordered a new filler neck elbow from SOR and the ID as too small and would not even go onto the the filler neck. I found the old tank and reused the original neck and then I could have used another set of hands getting everything to line up to get the filler neck into the hole in the body.

The neck has to rotate to line up with the tank and I forgot to install the gasket and was not going to take it back out so I split the gasket and put in place. The new screws from SOR were to short so used what I had handy that were M5-.8 and got them in after drilling new holes in the neck flange and gasket.
I opened the worm gear clamps to get them installed.

Got a new cap that has the slotted handle so that when filling the tank I can slip the slot over the lock and hopefully wont leave it behind when the tank is full. I have a magnetic cap for my Ram that acts like a plug that I can stick to the fuel door and keeps me from closing the fuel door but could not find one for a Land Cruisers. This was next best thing.

Will drill the floor for the hold down bolts next to secure the tank.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Transfer punching the mounting holes to the floor for drilling for the M10 bolts in the kit

The rear bolts holes needed a longer bit to reach all the way through.

The backing plates for the rear had to be cut to fit and the holes opened with a step bit and some grinding.

Rear bolts nuts and backing plate in

With help from the Wife holding the back up wrench and me underneath with a ratchet we got the bolts tight

 

[POPO AGIE]

The Wife tried to close the fuel door and pointed out that the door hits the handle or bracket so the door wont close. Will have to see what I can do to make an adjustment on the the ends so the door will close. May have something to do with rotating the filler to get it hooked up to the tank.

Started working on the center support and cut the DS leg off and now mater which way I rotated it the angle was wrong. Will wait until I put the seats back in with the flat bar and then see what I can do to make a support once I have more structure in place.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Looks like the cap needs to rotate 90 degrees. Perhaps some spacer washers to shim the assembly back in a little.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Looks like the cap needs to rotate 90 degrees. Perhaps some spacer washers to shim the assembly back in a little.

I tried that it only rotated 180.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Yea the cap locks in notches in the filler - so rotate the filler (new holes to mount it might be needed or a backing plate, second option take the cap apart and rotate the guts 90.