Builds Rebuild of Trusty (11 Viewers)

[POPO AGIE]

in the first photo I lifted the axle to see if my steering shaft was going to hit the elbow and looks like the tie rod would hit the pitman arm first. that proved that I need to lower the bump stop.

The rear is an early photo when I installed the new springs and installed the front as per instructions and were backwards. It did help the rear after I get the front right. I still have have to use a longer shackle in the rear. right now it is not a high priority until I get some other things done first.

 

[cruisermatt]

you really need a longer shackle in the front. Also, what is with the square tube between the spring hanger and frame? I would cut those out and angle the spring back a bit.
Do you already have your caster set? If not, that will affect the tie-rod location.
There are also shorter steering arms available to move the tire-rod further back (Sky's Off-Road makes them)

Also, what is going on with the stack of washers under the steering gearbox?

 

[POPO AGIE]

you really need a longer shackle in the front. Also, what is with the square tube between the spring hanger and frame? I would cut those out and angle the spring back a bit.
Do you already have your caster set? If not, that will affect the tie-rod location.
There are also shorter steering arms available to move the tire-rod further back (Sky's Off-Road makes them)

Also, what is going on with the stack of washers under the steering gearbox?

I may need longer shackles but I am not there yet I still have a lot of other work to do.
I did a shackle reversal when I was learning to weld in college over 30 years ago and did not have the money to buy a kit being an unemployed student. I used 2" square tubing to lower the front spring mount that I moved from the rear of frame and did not drill through the frame for the shackle bolt I welded the shackle mount to the frame. Once it was aligned when complete it handled better then it ever did and wished I had learned to weld sooner. It has worked for a long time and even handled the impact of a collision. You are not the first to give me a hard time about but I have put a lot of miles on it on and off road and have not had an issue and did adjust shackle angles and lengths after that mod to get it leveled up. I ran a stock length once it was level and 2' longer in the rear. I will fine tune the suspension later.

The position of the R2.8 in the frame rails being moved over like the I6 was, I needed to move the steering box farther away from the frame so that the u-joint bolt would clear the water pump elbow when the steering wheel is rotated. If you want to sell me another plate to shim the box out more then the 1/4" I would be happy to buy it from you. The R2.8 is very short and is behind the front axle but much wider then the 155F or the 2F with the H55F and split transfer case in the same location as the 4 speed and one piece transfer case and the mounts on the bell housing bolted up to the frame. See attached photo.

Free advise is in short supply before I have to pay some one to assist and I don't have access to any one local in Wyoming that is as fully versed on rebuilding FJ40s. There a few guys in Riverton or Lander but I have not met them. I work alone in my shop and have no one to help with another set of eyes.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Worked on opening the mounting holes for the shock mounts to insert the DOM tubing.

Top hole opened enough

Cut 2 sleeves at 2" long and installed with new bolts with flanged heads and the DS shock mount

 

[POPO AGIE]

Put the wheel back on and worked on the PS

Got the holes opened up but the internal welded nut caused issues trying to control the drill until I used a cold chisel to break it off and finished the upper hole

Sleeves and bolts

Installed the nuts and washers and will install the shock tower once the new fender is built

Then switched to installing the intake clocking ring from Quick Draw.

Had to remove the hard pipe that is mounted to the intake.

Unclamped the lower hose clamp

Moved the pipe out of the way and started removing the mounting studs on the intake.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Removed the intake and exposed the heating grid

Inserted the clocking ring

Inserted the intake into the clocking ring and installed the spacer so that the throttle body motor would clear the clocking ring

Started mocking up the intercooler piping after clocking the intake to line up with the intercooler
Will need to trim and bead the tube to fit this side

Cut the old radiator support to clear the intercooler tube

 

[POPO AGIE]

Loosened the turbo outlet and clocked so the intercooler tube could clear the alternator

 

[POPO AGIE]

Yesterday I got my package back from Axis Industries with my Cummins brain for the R2.8 along with the mount for the Cummins pedal, and they threw in the Murphy gauge mount and a mount for the windshield wash tank.

Today I got around to removing the upper rear shock pins and was going to drill through the crossmember tube and use a longer grade 8 1/2" bolts but after cutting them off and grinding the welds flush there is no way I can get my 6-3 frame under there and hang on to a drill to get through the 2" tube. I took a measurement of the tube and it is just under 2" so I went to Ruff Stuff and ordered two tubing clamps that I will use to secure the upper end of the shocks to.

Started with removing the heat shields for the OEM exhaust and most of the bolts snapped off before getting them removed.

Then started grinding the welds from the back side of the tube flush

Before grinding

Cut and ground the DS pin, may need more grinding once the clamps are here

PS side pin cut and ground

 

[POPO AGIE]

Got the two couplers for the charge air and used the 30 degree on the PS and got it assembled
Need to find some tubing to put on the T-bolts so I don't get cut doing service and adjusted the horn after tightening the T-bolts

Trimmed a tube to 16" then had to clean up the rough edges

Cut the coupler longer then the 3" couplers that came with the kit and install the tube between the elbow and the intake. T-bolts are really long

Then unpacked the 4plus running boards for installation, wired wheeled the rust on both sides and sprayed with primer before putting the running boards on. Removed the supports for the old running boards before mounting the new ones.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Used the transmission jack to support the running boards

Supporting with the jack and c-clamps before drilling

DS drilled and bolted

PS side mounted minus 1 bolt because of a bolt at the seam that dulls the bit

Through the sheet metal but not the bolt completely missed it on the DS

 

[POPO AGIE]

I was not stratified with the bead rolled on the the charge air tube after cutting it. When I installed the intake clocking ring I had to take the manifold that was bolted to the intake to install the clocking ring,

I took the roller and the tube to the shop and we got a bead similar to the factory bead. Then switched bolts around on the clocking ring and cut a tab off of the manifold and made it work with the clocking ring, but may need a longer hose to try to get the offset out of the discharge side.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Connected the T-housing to the top of the radiator and found that the T-housing neck is bigger then the 1.5" on the radiator so had to get another elbow that is 1.5x1.75 with t-bolt clamps. Took a lot of cutting to get everything to connect. Took a lot of connections and may see if I can get a custom one made.

Installed the clamps on the rear shock tube to replace the original shock pins, now all the shocks can be mounted when the times comes.

Worked on the lower elbows for the return to the water pump. Same as the upper had to trim these to elbows to get them as close to the radiator and away from the accessories and above the axle for clearance. I also had to order a 2x1.5 elbow for the water pump snout and will finish assembly of the lower once all the parts arrive.

 

[POPO AGIE]

The box of parts showed up from PSC yesterday including parts I didn't order or were even on the invoice or packing slip. Got a pump which I did not need since the R2.8 came with one and the anti spray kit but that I did want. The are sending me a plug for the aux port on the reservoir since I am not using hydro boost.

I opened the Bib to check if there is room in front of the of the cooling stack for the new cooler and I will use the old radiator mounts to mount too and have room to close the Bib and some air can still get to the lower part of the radiator not covered by the intercooler. It is enclosed and protected.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Got back from a job and had a pile of boxes on my desk.
The elbow I needed to connect the upper hose from the radiator to the larger T-housing nozzle was there so I can put that one to bed.
Got the hose to cut to fit to run from a T for the de-aeration tank and run across to the DS and eventually connect to the water pump nozzle when they elbow gets in.

I ordered two of these fittings for the HP and LP sides of the PS box. I attached one to the box that will feed the new cooler and this one I will take to NAPA to have a HP hose made up with a banjo fitting on the other end to connect to the pump.

Got the banjo fitting from Cummins and the bolt with washers from Amazon.

Attached the other fitting to the low pressure side of the box, they were bigger then I thought they would be and took a 17 mm wrench to tighten up. I also had to adjust the horn location.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Before I went back to Omaha to finish the turbine outage I was working on the fluid circuit until I realized that the fittings on the cooler were to big and was asking PSC for bushings to make the cooler work.

I got back from Omaha and took more photos and sent to PSC they finally figured out they sent me the wrong cooler it was not recommended or what was ordered. They are shipping another cooler with -6 fittings out today.

 

[POPO AGIE]

The elbow came in that is 2" for the water pump nozzle that necks down to 1.5".

Started connecting sections from the water pump toward the outlet of the radiator. The motor is sitting so close to the frame on the DS like the F motors and the location of the water pump nozzle puts the hoses right next to the frame. I cant slide the elbow up to the stop because of the U-joint bolt and it just catches the edges and tore the edge but now clears the bolt head.

I just fit the horizontal run in with the T that will direct water to the de-aeration tank and will slip the T farther into the PS and that will pull the hose a little more away from the frame on the DS. I still have to add a vertical section below the elbow below the water pump nozzle so the horizontal run is below the fan shroud and not against the edge. I also ran out of T-bolt clamp so I order more 1.5" and 3/4". Will have to wait until I get back from North Platte the end of next month to finish the water and steering hydraulics.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Just place the order for Cruise Control from The Cruise Control Store for the R2.8.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I wanted to get the cruise control from DD but they have not figured out how to make it interface with the R2.8 yet.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Got home from Nebraska Saturday and today went and picked up the new bumpers from the shop and worked on mounting the front.

Square tubing needed some grinding to clear the edge of the bumper so the bolts would go through the holes.

Bolted on the new bumper with split shackles for recovery points

Side view

Parts drying out for the rear tire carrier

 

[POPO AGIE]

Today I worked on the power steering plumbing and at first I removed the wrong cooler that PSE sent me that was longer and single flow.
It had a completely different mounting system then the single flow did. I reused the shims for the other cooler and drilled a new center hole and drilled new holes in the mounting flat bar and bought longer M6 X 25 bolt to reach to the slot in the bottom of the cooler.

This cooler has 6AN fittings and works with the rest of the fitting in the systems.

Nuts that slide into the slot