Builds Rebuild of Trusty (5 Viewers)

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UPS dropped of a rear differential cover and a breather kit today.

I ran out to the barn and installed the cover with Toyota sealant, cork gasket and new socket head bolts with lock washers. Torqued to 35 ft pounds.

COVER WAS DELIVERED TODAY.jpg



INSTALLED THE DIFFERENTIAL COVER.jpg



COVER INSTALLED .jpg
 
I have removed the spark plugs and first sprayed Kroil because it is what I had on hand, into the head a couple of times. Yesterday bought some Marvel Mystery Oil and got some in on top of the pistons.

I have a 44mm socket and 3/4 drive ratchet and I can loosen the nut, but if I go the other way it just tightens the nut and moves the lock tabs out of the way. I have a cheater pipe and can generate a lot of torque, but only turns the nut in either direction. I don't want to keep tightening because the last thing I want is shear the threads off. I just want it to turn so I can remove the clutch and get to the internal bell housing bolts I don't need this motor to ever run again.

Any Ideas are welcome.
 
With the wheels on the ground, can you put her in gear and try pushing it?
 
No the rear axle has been removed and the front axle does not have any hubs or birfields. The frame is supported with jack stands.
 
I tried to use a sleever bar when I started unbolting the clutch. The is when I knew there was a problem. I need to get the bell housing off to do some grinding so the front bearing cover on the H55F will fit the bell housing.
 
I have even removed the distributor and drove the oil pump with a drill and it worked great, but the oil filter seal is bent and pumped the oil out onto the floor.
 
I am tired of messing with trying to turn the 155F and ordered a used 4 speed bell housing and will get another flywheel.
 
The brake lines for the rear axle were delivered today. The long one threaded right up from the tee to the caliper, the short one I had to cut and have it flaired and have it fitted up.

FITTED THE BRAKE LINES.jpg
 
I puttered around in the barn and replaced the drain plug in the axle, and loosened the pinion nut to replace it with new but the new ones are to big. Retorqued the nut and the drag seemed to improve.

Then I cut the side out of the crate the gearboxes are in and blocked them up to as close to the same height as the transmission jack. The put the jack between the crate and a tire and then sat on the the tire and braced my feet on the crate and grabbed the ears on the transmission and pulled the gear boxes up on the jack.

PULLED THE GEAR BOXXES ONTO THE TRANSMISSION JACK.jpg


Secured the gear boxes to the jack

GEAR BOXES SECURED TO THE JACK.jpg



I jacked up a ways to work on the parking brake and it really did not like lifting the weight and with the output side of the transfer case throwing off the balance the scissor mechanism leaned. When I attach it to the bell housing I will use additional support with the floor jack to keep it rotated to get the bolts in.
 
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Since I am having problems getting a bracket for my hand brake for possibly a FJ70 series that is deep enough, I took the two FJ60 brackets I have and cut the bottoms off and welded one back to the other flange. Don't have the hand brake here but will see tomorrow if it is deep enough with a shim.

Cut lines laid out

FIRST BRACKET CUT LINES LAYED OUT.jpg


First bracket cut off

FIRST BRACKET CUT.jpg
 
Second bracket cut

SECOND BRACKET CUT.jpg


After welding comparing the increased depth. Still need more welding practice and as I thought I had burn through that I had to keep back filling.

AFTER WELDING COMPAIRING THE DEPTH.jpg
 
I went to the shop where my brake lever and transmission covers are to check to see if the bracket was deep enough for radius of the cable track and it looked like I did nothing to make it deeper. But I found one on E bay today that from the photos instead of a drawing looks way deeper so I ordered it.

My 3/16" vinyl clips get here today for the rear axle brake lines and I found out after using a tap as a thread gauge and it is wrong, I bought 7MX1 bolts for the brake line clips and found out they were 8MX1.25 so had to buy more bolts and got nuts because they are 20mm long. So I installed the clips today, but the holes in the clips were too small for 8MM bolts, but a 0.316 but and the vice took care of that and got them bolted up and added a nut on the exposed end of the bolts.

INSTALLED THE CLIPS ON THE BRAKE LINES WITH NEW BOLTS AND NUTS.jpg


Then I started working on the E-brake assembly and installed the brake cable with a new retaining clip

INSTALLED THE BRAKE CABLE WITH A NEW CLIP.jpg



Then replaced the clip holding the top retainer on the pin with a new horseshoe washer from the rebuild kit, but they had no spring to them and were very soft and would just bend and fall out of the groove.

HORSE SHOE WASHERS SUPPLIED IN THE REBUILD KIT WERE VERY SOFT AND NO SPRING TO THEM SO STOPPED...jpg



So I went to ACE and bough E-Clips and they fit perfectly

INSTALLED A E-CLIP INSTEAD OF THE HORSESHOE WASHER.jpg



That was a far as I can go because I don't have the strut and lever with the washers.

PARKING BRAKE PARTS.PNG
 
A 3F bell housing was delivered yesterday, so I borrowed a needle gun to get some of the rust flakes off and went over it with a wire wheel then too it to the power coat shop and dropped it off.

Came back and fired up the vac and used a putty knife to get the loose rust, dirt and grease and everything the mice brought in and left and pulled out the headliner since it was falling off. Some surface rust but is all sound, not bad for a build date of 02/78.


CLEANING WITH PUTTY KNIFE AND VAC 1.jpg



CLEANING WITH PUTTY KNIFE AND VAC 2.jpg


Rear bed

REAR BED AFTER CLEANING WITH PUTTY KNIFE AND VAC.jpg


Went and got the brake lever and check the fit with the deep bracket and it was finally right.

BRAKE LEVER AND BRACKE FIT.jpg
 
I also took the bucket seats to a shop in town. After looking at replacement seats, new covers and foam all the options were more that he will do both seats with new foam for less than just the cost of the vinyl and foam from SOR.
 
After getting some advice this morning I went out and removed the lifter cover and the valve cover to see if there was rust preventing the 155F from being rotated.
The lifters all looked like they got oil when I drove the oil pump and it also looked like oil was making it up there also but did see that the #6 rockers were rusted.

REMOVED THE LIFTER COVER.jpg


Pulled the valve cover and found the #6 rocker arms are rusted



PULLED THE VALVE COVER.jpg



Then it was my turn to do the dishes and pulled out the FJ60 knuckles and started washing out the grease the stripped them down and washed some more. Let them dry and are ready to be wire wheeled.

FJ60 KNUCKLE.jpg
FJ60 KNUCKLE 2.jpg
 
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Wire wheel cleaned the FJ60 knuckles and more time in the parts washer.

WIRE WHEELING FJ60 KNUCKLES.jpg



Chased all the threads that I have a tap for in my set. Did not have a tap for the seal side

CHASING THE THREADS.jpg


Found a pot deep enough to let each knuckle soak, then power washed and used the air nozzle to dry them

DRYING AFTER ANOTHER SOAK IN THE PARTS WASHER.jpg



SECOND DRYING AFTER SOAKING .jpg
 
The lever and strut kit showed up today, so I had some cleaning with the wire wheel to do before assembly of the brake internals

Surface of the strut

CLEANING THE SURFACE RUST OFF THE BRAKE LEVERS.jpg


Strut cleaned

STRUT CLEANED.jpg


Strut and lever cleaned

STRUT AND LEVER CLEANED.jpg


Assembled the internal parts of the parking brake

PARKING BRAKE ASSEMBLED.jpg
 
The bracket for the parking brake switch had surface rust so I used the wire wheel to clean it up

CONDITION OF THE PARKING BRAKE SWITHCH BRACKET.jpg



After cleaning

PARKING BRAKE SWITCH BRACKET AFTER CLEANING.jpg



After it was clean shot it with rattle can paint

SHOT THE PARKING BRAKE SWITCH WITH RATTLE CAN PAINT.jpg
 

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