I pulled the head today to see if I would have better luck turning the motor over. I found out that there was a water leak and the cylinders had rusted.
Broke the head bolts loose and removed the rocker arm assembly, remove the water pump and the thermostat housing.
Then, because of the one stud that would not come out I used wedges to lift the head high enough to almost clear the top of the stud.
Did not want to lift the head like I did in my 20s so I got as close as I could with the tractor forks
I don't know if that stud is standard didn't think it was standard, may have been for the remote oil filter. I was working in the Portland, OR and the original 2F had the head milled 0.50" and after a year the rest of the valves were burnt. I was told I could not get another head. We found an FJ40 with two motors near Mt St Helens and put the better of the two motors in mine. I don't know the history of it before it was dropped in. I used my 2F intake and header and carb and it ran about the same as the 2F.
I think you are right. There was a plate with two pipe spacers in the first two holes being held with the two studs. The studs were the only ones with anti seize. The plate had what was left of a bad weld on the edge.
I have a 10 lb sledge and a 20 lb sledge but 5 and 2 are at the bottom of the stroke, 3 and 4 close to the top of the stroke. 1 and 6 are in the stroke. Another head will reach t3 or 4. 6 is too close to the firewall so I can hit the head with the other hammer. Hitting 3 and 4 is hard not to hit the edge of the cylinder bore.
I bought some MAPP gas, but can't generate enough heat to do much good. Need a rosebud and Oxy/act to get the needed heat.
Yesterday I used a large brass drift and a 3 lb brass hammer and nothing would give.
I am going to have to wait until I have the axles back under the frame and suspension bolted up, because now it is sitting on 6 jack stands and cribbing under the block. The impact on the pistons is sending shock to the points where the frame is sitting on the jack stands and don't want it to walk off of the stands.
I need to remove the pressure plate and the clutch, then the flywheel so I have access to the 4 internal bolts to the block.
If you know of another way to get to the internal bolts I would love to hear it.
I went out to install the new axle shafts in my rear axle and found that the splines in the differential are too tight to the seat but they engage. They don't go in far enough to install the drive flanges.
Does anyone know if there is a difference between Lock Right 30 splines and Toyota Splines? When I ordered them I informed them I had a Lock Right.
. Is that stud standard on a F155? I thought they were all bolts originally.
