Today I went out to assemble the Transfer Case shift linkage and once I got it figured out it went together. But I found out I don't have the bracket the keeps the shifter from going into low range 2 wheel drive and I don't have the nut for the Hi to N to low rod. I will go and get a nut tomorrow at ACE since they have the best selection of metric fasteners.
I also found out that the lever for the FD shift has a ball fit and I found a plastic bushing that fits the notch in the shift lever in the transfer case that I pressed on with my machinists.
Went to ACE and got a nut, washer and a hitch pin to complete the linkage for the 4H, N and 4L range. I may not order the bracket that guides the TC shifter so that I can use low range in 2 wheel drive. The detent springs are pretty heavy.
Today I did cleaning and prepping for paint of the axle, wheel hubs and the new brake calipers that will go on the rear axle.
I cleaned the axle and hubs with a de-greaser, then used an etching metal prep then painted with POR 15
Power washed and then dried with an air nozzle. First time I have used the power washer in years and has non ethanol gas in it, but would not run without the choke at this elevation and my 1 HP water pump can't keep up with the pressure washer.
Dried the axle with air
Blew off the wheel hubs
Used a Cat's paw to remove the old gaskets and rust on the housing, then stoned the surface
Short on parts to assemble the hubs on the axle so I installed the LocRight locker in the rear differential.
I was easy, but if you get the two halfs out of phase the center pin will not go through and those small springs are hard to take out again.
The Toyota dealership called yesterday that they had the spindle gaskets so went to Lander, WY to pick them up. When they found them and brought them to the counter they are so thin the parts guy thought they only sent one gasket. He ordered another one, I was half way to Hudson when he called to tell me they found the second gasket it was in the same bag. I turned around and went back to get them. They were $4.01 but I spent more in diesel to get them.
When I got back and had my lunch it started installing the new spindles.
I put sealant on the oil seals on the inboard of the spindle and repeated for the other end
Installed the seal in the spindle and did the same for the other end
One end assembled with new bolts, lock washer, seal, gasket and shim that replaces the dust shield so the rotors will be exposed and have the right stack up once the hubs are installed.
Torque the bolts, but when I when to full torque as shown in the FSM I blew out a lock washer so I back off 5 lbs and did the same on the brake rotors and good thing I ordered more washers than bolts.
Set the races for the new bearing and packed the bearings to install with new seals
New inner race installed for the inner bearing on the short side
Packed the inner bearing and set in the race and then installed the new seal on the short side
Packed the hub with grease and then packed the outer bearing and installed the thrust washer and the first nut, then and torqued the inner nut to ~43 lbs then backed off and retorqued to ~5 lbs as per the FSM. The torqued the outer nut to ~70 lbs as per the manual
Installed the new ARB studs after chasing the threads
Loosely installed the drive flange on the short side
Repeated on the long side
Both wheel hubs installed
Then chased the stud holes for differential and cover, and cleaned the sealing faces with a Cat's paw, then vacuumed out the axle and wiped off the magnet.
Put Toyota sealent on the differential sealing face set the gasket and then another layer of sealant and used two of the old studs at the top and bottom to set the differential in place. Also finished loading the pads in the calipers, the bolts were torqued to the value in the FSM of 70 lbs.
I used socket head bolts that were 10mm 1.25 and 8 were 25 mm long and were the right length, but the long ones were too short so ordered 40mm length which was the longest. All were torqued to 40 Nm as per the internet.
Measured the inside depth of the drive flange and then used a $30 measuring stick that was 3/4" round stock to get measurements from the bushings in the Lock Right at the inside of the splines to the face of the hub with the gasket to add to the depth mic reading
With the round stock bottomed out inside the splines I used a straight edge on the sealing face with the gasket and scribed in the orange paint then measured the distance outside the axle. I tried to use just a tape measure, but it drooped so much it would go in as far as the adjustment faces of the bearings not into the splines.
The inner and outer transfer case shifter boots showed up today, so I washed them and they are drying on the shifter
Ordered a Fat transfer case shifter today, so it is on the way to replace the spindly lever and fit the outer shift boot
Monday I got some 10mm 1.25 X 40 mm socket head bolts from McMaster Carr and today I removed the two 35 mm length bolts and replaced them with the 40 mm length bolts. With an additional 0.078" in length it looks and feel like I have enough thread engagement now.
Finally got around fixing my Workmate after it broke
I went and got a length of stair tread for the strength and cut two sections 36" in length and they are 12" wide so I now have more surface area.
I drilled holes to use the plugs and got nuts and bolts to use more of the holes for clamping with. Got it back together
But there was a problem with the increased surface area the handles would not turn to clamp with.
So I laid it out and used a tool for cutting sheet rock for outlets and switches. The smaller diameter general purpose but could not take a side load and snapped off. I got two 1/4" bits and cut them to 3" length and use them. The were the not right kind of bit but they did not have any the can rout with so I did what I could by plunging and tipping and causing the work to chip out but they got very hot and went through two of them. Put it back together and now the handles clear.
Used 3/4" bolts and nuts for clamping with along with plastic plugs for clamping
Started removing the clutch bolts out but I do not have enough leverage to turn the motor over, it has not run since '91 so I pulled the spark plugs to get oil into the cylinders
Removed the slave cylinder.
Removed the starter and seemed much easier below zero the last time I changed it out. I missed a day's work and got my picture in Rock Springs Rocket Minor because and a photographer was walking around taking photos that day.
Today I pulled the distributor to be able to drive the oil pump and get oil to the bearings
I set up a screwdriver bit and a drill to drive the oil pump the pump worked so well it pumped most of the oil out onto the floor because the oil filter was bent at the seal.
Rigged the gear boxes to set on a cart with the tractor and forks on the bucket.
I set on the same cart that I used for the 4 speed and transfer case, but these boxes are much heavier and the transmission is top heavy.
The smaller wheels collapsed and dumped it on the floor. Ordered a transmission jack from Harbor Freight the is rated for 450 lbs and has a restraining strap.
Time for a 
